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HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

AXD 

COSMETIC GUIDE 



BY THE SAME AUTHOR 



Baldness : Its Causes, Its Treatment 
and Its Cure. 

A Manual of Hair- Instruction for the 
General Public as well as for the 
Physician. 

Fully Illustrated 

In Press 
For Early Publication 



New York 

E. P. Dutton & Co. 

681 Fifth Avenue 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

AND 

COSMETIC GUIDE 



BY 

RICHARD W. MULLER, M.D. 



With 52 illustrations 



Copyrighted, 1916 
By RICHARD W. MULLER, M.D t 






JUL 28 1917 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

AND 

COSMETIC GUIDE 



FULLY ILLUSTRATED 



BY 

RICHARD W. MULLER, M.D. 




NEW YORK 
E. P. DUTTON & CO. 

681 FIFTH AVENUE 



"R A 71 f 



Copyright, 19 17, 
By E. P. DUTTON & CO. 



/ 

>C!A467975 



DEDICATED 

TO 

THE QUEEN OF HER SEX THE WORLD OVER, 

THE AMERICAN LADY 



CONTENTS 



PART I. 

PAGE 

Prophylaxis and Hygiene 13 

Hygiene according to age - 15 

The Period of Youth 15 

Sexual Period 17 

Critical Period 24 

Hygiene according to Region 31 

General Hygiene • • 35 

Cosmetics 39 

Chemical Cosmetics . • 41 

Liquid Cosmetics 41 

Toilet Waters 41 

Lotions • • 43 

Toilet Vinegars 45 

Virginal Milks 46 

Solid Cosmetics 47 

Cold Creams and Cerates . 50 

Ointments 51 

Salves and Balsams 51 

Pastes 52 

Jellies 52 

Soaps • 5? 

Powders and Veloutines 54 

Cosmetic Sticks 55 

Dyes and Paints • • 56 

Dyes 56 

Paints 57 

Physical and Mechanical Cosmetics 59 

Massage , , ..,,... ? . . ? . 61 



2 CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Technique of Massage 62 

Regional Massage of the Face 63 

Application of Bandages 65 

Beauty Masks 65 

Fig. 1. — Forehead (Acne) 66 

Fig. 2. — Forehead (Wrinkles) 67 

Fig. 3.— Nose 68 

Fig. 4. — Eyes and Eyelids 69 

Fig. 5.— Upper Eyelids 70 

Fig. 6. — Lower Eyelids (Massage) 71 

Fig. 7. — Lower Eyelids (Vibratory movement) 72 

Fig. 8.— Left Cheek 73 

Fig. 9.— Right Cheek 74 

Fig. 10.— Both Cheeks 75 

Fig. 11. — Entire Face 76 

Fig. 12. — Lower part of the Face 77 

Fig. 13.— Upper Lip 78 

Fig. 14.— Chin 79 

Electro-Therapeutic Treatment 80 

Medico-Chirurgical Cosmetics 80 

PART II. 

Acne (Figs. 15, 16) 84 

Preventive Treatment 87 

Curative Treatment 87 

Lotions for Acne 90 

Creams, Salves and Pastes for Acne 91 

Anhidrosis 93 

Anemia • • 93 

Bandages (Figs. 17, 18, 19) 93 

Barber's Itch (Fig. 20) 94 

Beard 94 

Bites 97 

Blackheads or Blackpoints, Comedons 97 

Breath (offensive) 100 

Constipation 102 

Congenital bad Breath 103 

Scorbutic Ulcerations of the Mouth 105 

Syphilitic Inflammation and Ulceration of the Mouth. . . 105 



CONTENTS 3 

PAGE 

Brilliantines • • 106 

Burns 107 

Chilblains 109 

Chin 109 

Chloasma 109 

Cicatrices 1 10 

Cold Creams 113 

Comedons • • 114 

Complexion 114 

Congelations 118 

Congestion of the Face • 118 

Cosmetics 120 

Cracked Skin 121 

Creams 122 

Fat Creams 123 

Dry Creams 124 

Indifferent, Mixed, Medical Creams 125 

General Remarks on the Use of Creams 130 

Composition of Creams 131 

Manner of Preparing Creams 136 

When Creams should be used 138 

How to use Creams • • 138 

Crow's Feet 139 

Cysts 139 

Depilatory Powder^ 139 

Discolorations • • 139 

Down 140 

Dressings 140 

Driness of the Skin 140 

Dry Face, its Care 141 

Dyes 142 

Ears 146 

Electrolysis 146 

Emulsions for the Toilette 147 

Ephelides 148 

Erythema 148 

Excessive Perspiration 149 

Excrescences 151 



4 CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Eyes 151 

Eyebrows 152 

Eyelashes . * 153 

Eyelids t 155 

Black Circles under the Eyes , 155 

Conjunctivitis 155 

Redness of the Eyes 156 

Styes 157 

Swelled Eyelids 157 

Watering Eyes 158 

Facial Blemishes 158 

Lentigo or Freckles (Fig. 21) 160 

Flaccid or Flabby Skin 163 

Freckles 163 

Frostbites 163 

Furuncles 163 

Hair on the Face 164 

Preparations for the Removal of Hair 165 

Herpes • • 167 

Humid Skin 167 

Hyperhidrosis 168 

Hypertrichosis 168 

Intolerance of the Skin 168 

Itching, Puritus . • 168 

Lentigo • • 170 

Lips 170 

Atrophy of the Lips 170 

Herpes, Lip Sores, Fever Sores 171 

Hypertrophy of the Lips 171 

Dry Lips 172 

Pale Lips 172 

Lotions 173 

Masks (Figs. 22, 23) 174 

Cosmetic Masks (Figs. 24—29) 175 

Rubber Masks (Figs. 30—33) 178 

Massage (Figs. 34—47) 180 

Plastic Massage 180 

Manual Massage 180 

Vibratory Massage (Figs. 48, 49) ,..,,, f , 188 



CONTENTS 5 

PAGE 

Moles, Beauty Spots 189 

Neck 190 

Nose 190 

Blackheads, Black Points 192 

Chronic Coryza 193 

Sore Nose following Coryza 195 

Chilblains or Frostbites 195 

Enlarged Nose, Hypertrophy 196 

Nasal Irritation 196 

Bad Odor from Nose 196 

Ozena or Stinking Nose 196 

Paraffin 198 

Rhinitis 198 

Rhinophyma 198 

Redness of the Nose 198 

Obesity 201 

Paints 202 

Paleness 207 

Papers, Paper Leaves 207 

Pastes 207 

Perfumes 208 

Perspiration . , 209 

Pigmentations 211 

Pityriasis 211 

Powders 21 1 

Redness 212 

Resins and Balsams 214 

Rosacea 215 

Rugosity of the Skin 216 

Scale 216 

Seborrhoea 218 

Soaps 219 

Sprays (Figs. 50, 51) 221 

Stings and Bites 223 

Sunburn 223 

Superfluous Hair, Hairiness 224 

Thin Face 227 

Toilet of the Face 228 



6 CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Toilet Water 232 

Thickening of the Skin 236 

Vinegars 236 

Warts , . . 237 

Wrinkles (Fig. 52) 238 

Preventive Cares 239 

Corrective Cares 240 

Hair 244 



FOREWORD. 

The hygiene and treatment of diseases of the skin of 
the face are too often, and quite wrongly, neglected by 
physicians and given up to quacks, or left without medi- 
cal control to barbers and beauty doctors. 

The face is, however, the most useful portion of the 
body, not only for the physical and moral life, but still 
more for its relation to the family and society in general. 

The face is the seat of most of the organs of sense 
as well as those of expression. In the former the sensa- 
tions and sentiments have their birth, the latter by means 
of the nerves, the blood-vessels and the muscles, express 
these sensations and sentiments, either voluntarily by 
the expression called up at will, or involuntarily by 
change of color or by an unconscious mimicry. 

If the face is the open book of our sentiments, of our 
sensations, of our thoughts, our passions and our vices, 
it equally testifies to and reveals the functional or organic 
troubles which affect the health. 

One might say, in the form of an aphorism, that the 
appearance of the face and its expression, in a word the 
physiognomy, is the barometer of our moral and 
physical condition. 



FOREWORD 



If the face, through its multiple changes of expression, 
shows what is going on within us, it is, on account of its 
uncovered position, the most readily exposed either to 
natural irritations such as the action of the air, cold, 
heat, and changes of temperature, or to artificial irritants 
such as defective hygiene, injurious practices, abuse of 
cosmetics and medicaments. All these irritants are the 
origin or commencement of functional troubles or local 
diseases. 

To show what one should do to avoid diseases of 
the face, to preserve what one has, to prevent what 
may come, to hide defects or supply what is missing: 
that is to say, preventive hygiene, the various cares of 
the toilet and the question of cosmetics, will be the object 
of the first part of this book. 

To ameliorate or to cure, that is, the proper treatment 
of the diseases of the face, form the subject of another 
division : cosmetics. 

There is an essential reason for this division: many 
troubles of the face belong simply to coquetry, annoying 
because of the moral influences which they exert; 
troubles, which the sufferer as well as the public recog- 
nize, and which can be relieved simply by hygiene and 
cosmetics. 

But on the contrary there are a great many diseases 
which are not only injurious to beauty as well as to 
social relations, but which by destroying certain parts 
of the face make a repulsive object of the victim, prevent 
him from attending to his work, and often reflect upon 
the health in general. Only the physician is capable of 
recognizing and treating these diseases, and in order to 
cure them he must diagnosticate them from their begin- 
ning. 



FOREWORD 9 

It is to fulfil this double purpose : the prophylaxis and 
the treatment, that each of the divisions contains some 
medications and prescriptions. 

The author has borrowed and gleaned from all sides, 
from French professors as well as from English and 
German ones. He has sought out the best manuals on 
beauty, perfumery and cosmetics that he could find. 

He has even read and taken from journals on beauty. 
In thus doing, he has been guided by the thought that 
all this material might be of use in treating a question 
as delicate as that of the face, on which so often, through 
the sympathy or the repulsion which it inspires, depends 
the happiness or the unhappiness of the individual, of 
the family, of society. 



PART I. 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



PROPHYLAXIS AND HYGIENE 

The diseases which attack the face may be divided 
into : 

I. Eruptions induced either artificially or accidentally, 
resulting from improper care, local or atmospheric 
actions, physical and chemical irritations, or those of 
microbic origin. 

II. Spontaneous skin affections due to the condition 
of the system (gout, arthritis, scrofula) ; to infections 
(tuberculosis, syphilis, etc.). 

III. Senile degeneration: early or belated changes 
due to the conditions of life or to age. 

IV. Hereditary or congenital degenerations acquired 
at birth or by predisposition. 

The larger part of these eruptions could be prevented 
if their cause were known ; the skin affections which 
come spontaneously are above all preventable by an 
appropriate general treatment ; senile degenerations could 
be delayed by a good hygiene ; the hereditary degenera- 
tions can be prevented or cut short, if the taints of the 
parents are known and combatted. The hygiene of the 
face consists above all in its proper care and cleanliness, 
the object of which is to preserve the qualities and 
natural functions of the skin. 

The rules for the care of the skin are either of a 
general character which means prevention of everything 
which could interfere with its regular function; or of 



14 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

special character, according to the color, the complexion, 
the age, sex and environment. 

Anything beyond this belongs to cosmetics., i.e., the 
knowledge of the means used to embellish ; to repair or 
hide the imperfections of the face, or the changes result- 
ing from age, from bad hygienic conditions and from 
diseases. 



HYGIENE ACCORDING TO THE AGE 

Life in relation to the care of the face may be divided 
into three periods : 

1. The period of youth from birth to puberty ; 

2. The sexual period from puberty to maturity ; 

3. The critical period from maturity to old age. 
These divisions are factitious ; one may arrive at the 

age of puberty at twelve years, and be old at forty. At 
these two extreme periods, the hygiene is the same for 
both sexes. In the intermediate period, which is that of 
sexual activity, the hygiene of the face differs with 
men and women. This is the period of life in which 
the habits, the mode of life, the sentiments and sensa- 
tions, the state of the sexual organs, of the digestive and 
nervous systems exert the greatest influence upon the 
condition of the face. 



THE PERIOD OF YOUTH. 

FROM BIRTH TILL PUBERTY. 

The first care at the birth of the child is to remove 
the more or less sebaceous and adherent matter which 
covers the face. Wash with lukewarm water, which 
has first been boiled, and soap ; rub very gently with 
eau de Cologne diluted with water, then with white vase- 



16 HYGIENE OP THE FACE 

line ; dry carefully and apply some rice powder. All this 
should be done by means of sterilized cotton tampons, 
which should be thrown away each time after using. 

This dressing must be done daily for five days in suc- 
cession and continued longer, if the skin is greasy, and 
particularly if there should be any slight eruption. How- 
ever, if the skin is dry, very red and irritable, the soap 
and the use of the Cologne water must be omitted from 
the beginning and only vaseline and powder applied. 
Boiled water allowed to become lukewarm is most suit- 
able. When the skin is pale and dry, it is well to follow 
up the lukewarm with a cold washing. Bathing with 
cream of milk diluted with warm water or with luke- 
warm marshmallow water, is recommended where the 
skin is irritable. In infancy, when the skin of the face 
peels off easily, and shows those little desquamations 
called tetter (herpes, eczema), soap must not be used; 
lukewarm water to which has been added a small quantity 
of salt or bi-carbonate of soda may be used and if this 
still proves too irritant, a fine piece of linen dipped in 
vaseline may be substituted, followed by wiping with 
sterilized cotton, then powdered lightly with starch. 

This care of the skin may cease at six years of age 
for boys, but can be continued in the case of a girl. 
Generally speaking, fresh cold water, which has been 
previously boiled, is the best to use from infancy to 
adolescence. 

In infancy using objects which are lying around, for 
wiping the face, must be avoided. Handkerchiefs are 
often the cause of infections of the skin, such as scurf 
or scaly skin, and of others still more serious, as 
syphilis or tuberculosis. Promiscuous kissing should 
not be allowed, and in the case of a girl the corset must 



ACCORDING TO AGE 17 

be attended to as well as the position assumed when writ- 
ing : two factors which later may be the cause of erup- 
tions and acne. 

In both sexes the functions of the gastro-intestinal 
canal must be carefully watched, in order to prevent 
acne and other troubles of the face. 

SEXUAL PERIOD. 
FROM PUBERTY TILL MATURITY. 

At this period the principal thought which occupies 
the mind is the desire to please ; anxiety about the looks 
follows as a consequence ; the excess of care of the com- 
plexion and the abuse of cosmetics in the effort to pre- 
serve and to improve what nature has given, to modify 
or hide what is deficient. 

At this period the hygiene and the care of the skin 
differs for the two sexes. 

CARE OF THE FACE WITH MEN. 

These cares which should be particularly for the 
beard and mustache are the same as for the scalp. 

The clipping of the beard which should be done every 
two, three or four weeks, helps it to grow and prevents 
the hair falling out. 

The use of dyes or of certain cosmetics are apt to 
cause redness, desquamations or true eczemas, which 
may be very severe and obstinate. It is best to refrain 
from the use of dyes, even the so-called inoffensive 
ones. 

The mustache and beard should be washed thoroughly 
every ten to fifteen days with soapsuds, followed by fric- 
tion with alcohol. 



18 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



In the interval if the beard is dry, vaseline should be 
applied every third day, or brilliantine containing oil. 

If the beard is oily, it may be rubbed with alcohol or 
brilliantine in which alcohol predominates united with 
an essence of ether petroleum, and no greasy substance 
should be used. 

If the skin under the beard is scaly and it is found 
that lotions of alcohol used often increases this condi- 
tion it is better to use alkaline washes containing car- 
bonate or borate of soda and afterwards to apply vase- 
line, or a brilliantine containing glycerine. 

If there are pimples containing pus, they should be 
opened immediately or the diseased hairs extracted. 

It often happens that little pimples are neglected, 
which by spreading affect the whole vicinity and cause 
a suppurating affection called sycosis, one of the most 
difficult to cure. 

Shaving often causes a disorder resembling ringworm, 
characterized by a scaly condition of the skin which 
peels off, and by suppurating pimples ; to avoid these 
accidents a mild soap must be used and care taken after 
shaving to bathe with a lotion of alcohol, then rub with 
vaseline and, after this, powder with starch. 

If the skin is sensitive and the trouble persistent, it is 
better to cease shaving for a while. 

The care of the mustache is the same as for the beard. 
The mustache and beard are often attacked by an affec- 
tion which manifests itself by a knotty appearance of 
the hair (trichorrhexis nodosa), accompanied sometimes 
by its fall. This affection requires the use of local treat- 
ment, such as lotions and alcohol rubbings, and, at the 
same time, necessitates special treatment and a regime 
the same as for arthritis, frequent in these cases. 



ACCORDING TO AGE 19 

If very intense, it may be necessary to shave before 
a cure can be effected. 

CARE OF THE FACE WITH WOMEN. 

With women the care of the face is of considerable 
importance. It is more difficult to advise them because 
to make our advice useful we must take into considera- 
tion : 

1. The color and complexion; 

2. The quality of the skin ; 

3. The occupation ; 

4. The mode of life; 

5. The general condition; 

6. And most important, the functions of the nervous 
system, the genital organs and the digestive tract. 

The color and complexion are connected with the color 
of the hair. 

The brunette, the blonde and the red are three great 
varieties of complexion ; the chestnut belongs to one of 
these varieties. 

The brunette has a skin which secretes mor.e, and the 
glandular system is more active. This explains why 
they have a more greasy skin, have oftener acne and oily 
seborrhoea and lose their hair more readily. 

The attention must be particularly directed in their 
case to the gastro-intestinal functions, the liver and kid- 
ney, and to the regulation of the secretions and excre- 
tions. 

The blondes have a finer skin, dryer and more easily 
scaling, predisposed to red spots and wrinkles. Their 
glandular system is less active, their lymphatic and ner- 
vous system more irritable. They easily get pigmenta- 



20 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

tions and red spots. It is necessary to pay attention to 
their nervous system and their circulation. 

The reds have not such a vulnerable skin as the 
blondes, but resemble them in certain characteristics ; 
they have above all a considerable disposition to blotches, 
that is to say, to red spots. 

The chestnuts, according to the predominence of black 
or brown in their hair, follow the predispositions of 
these two. 

There are in reality, as far as the care of the skin is 
concerned, two essential varieties of skin : 

1. The oily skin; 

2. The dry skin. 

The first belongs preferably to the brunettes, the 
second to the blondes, although the latter may have 
an equally oily skin. 

Oily skins. — For oily skins which have less tendency 
than the others to wrinkles, it may be necessary to pre- 
scribe hot water, soaps, alcohol and powders. 

Hot water either pure or slightly alkaline, gives elasti- 
city to the # skin, quickens the circulation, and makes the 
muscles contract. The soap dissolves the greasy matter, 
removes the different products of the secretions and 
clears the glandular orifices. The alcohol finishes the 
action of the water and soap, acts as a tonic to the 
muscles and benefits the skin. The powder absorbs the 
moisture and grease. 

Dry skins. — For dry skins cold water, glycerine, greasy 
substances are needed, but soap should be used as little 
as possible. These skins do well sometimes on emulsions 
and aromatic vinegars. 

The cold water stimulates the blonde skin which is 



ACCORDING TO AGE 21 

dry, as well as the action of the nerves and the glandular 
secretions. 

Neutral glycerine dissolves the epidermic detritus, 
excites the glandular secretions and braces the skin. 

Greasy substances aid the secretions and assist their 
action by preventing the drying of the epidermis, as well 
as scaling and reddening of the skin. 

Powders, hot water and alcohol do not agree with dry 
skins, because they dry it even more, shrivel it and pro- 
duce peeling, accompanied by congestion and redness. 

It is the same with soaps, which cause localized peeling 
and general scaling. 

The reds, and the chestnuts according as they approach 
to the brunette or the blonde, should use the same care. 

Sedentary occupations tend to bring on seborrhoea and 
erythema on account of the bent attitude ; above all, cor- 
sets or clothing worn too tight will obstruct the circula- 
tion. 

Life in the open air on the contrary, quickens all the 
glandular functions, augments the greasy seborrhoea and 
acne. 

It results from the standpoint of hygiene, that all 
excesses, particularly sudden changes of temperature, 
must be avoided. 

This explains why the skin of those residing in cities, 
who attend balls, etc., cracks, fades, dries and wrinkles, 
while that of persons living in the country is made more 
brilliant by the life in the air and the sun. 

Hence to avoid the second trouble, all the following 
means must be employed : Veils to protect from the 
air, the dust and the sun ; light applications of creams 
against the air, the sun and the variations of tempera- 
ture. 



22 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

On general principles, it is one of the worst practices 
constantly to use face powder when there is no indica- 
tion for its use on account of a moist or greasy state of 
the skin, as its particles obstruct the orifice of the 
sebaceous and sweat glands and leads to a change of the 
skin, finally causing erythema and wrinkles. 

Powder should only be employed to dry the skin, and 
must be wiped off immediately after its application, 
unless there are special indications for not doing so. 

Diet plays an equally important part in the condition 
of the face, the clearness and freshness of the com- 
plexion. 

Brunettes with a greasy skin, with an active circula- 
tion have in general a greater appetite. They must be 
careful about their food, avoiding everything that might 
lead to an exaggeration of the local circulation and con- 
gestions, causes of eruptions. Too much or too rich 
food tends to the production of greasy seborrhoea, that 
is, to a greasy, moist appearance of the face, finally to 
acne. Alcohol, liquors, meat in excess, fish and crusta- 
ceous and all highly spiced food is forbidden them. 

Blondes are less subject than brunettes to the incon- 
veniences of a stimulating diet. With them, it is more 
nervous excitements than gastro-intestinal troubles that 
they must avoid, because the nerves act more on the 
skin of the blondes. They are equally less sensitive to 
the variations of temperature. 

It would be poor practice if, even for apparently quite 
local trouble, no account were taken of the general 
condition, as most diseases of the organs or of the 
organic system have their reaction on the skin, particu- 
larly on the skin of the face. All disorders of the diges- 



ACCORDING TO AGE 23 

tion, particularly of the large intestine, lead to troubles 
of the complexion. 

Muco-membranous enteritis and constipation take first 
place. Secondly troubles of the genito-urinary functions 
react upon the systems in several ways : 

1st. By insufficient or irregular menstruation pre- 
venting a normal purification of the circulation; 

2nd. By the reaction of the digestive organs ; 

3rd. By the nervous phenomena which accompany 
them and produce nervousness and genital neurasthenia, 
always contemporary or secondary to vaginal affections, 
or those of the uterus and ovaries. 

Hence the absolute necessity in the hygiene and treat- 
ment of diseases of the face, to take account of the state 
of the digestion, of the genital organs and of the nervous 
system, and to assure the regular working of these 
organs by appropriate treatment, at once medical, moral 
and even social. Hydropathy, hot or cold in the form 
of general douches, has an excellent effect. Such are 
the principal data concerning preventive hygiene in the 
sexual period. 

To it should be added a chapter relative to the 
influence of the mental upon the physical. 

Naturally it is the physician's part to act upon the 
physical. To the patient herself, to her family and to 
society in general, to act upon the mind. 

In the sexual period among women, the hygienic care 
of the face while pregnant, should be directed to the 
possible appearance of pigmentations called chloasma 
or signs of pregnancy. These pigmentations depending 
on the nature of the complexion, are often difficult to 
prevent, they are more often found among brunettes 
than among blondes, and above all with those whose 



24 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

liver is sensitive. The treatment consists in the use of 
lotions containing borax, benzoin, rose-water, glycerine, 
toilet vinegars, peroxide of hydrogen, and milk of 
almonds, which may lessen or prevent chloasma. To 
this must be joined the medical treatment of the liver. 

CRITICAL PERIOD. 
FROM MATURITY TO OLD AGE. 

It is difficult to assign any limits to the critical period ; 
it commences earlier or later according to the individual ; 
it shows itself by : 

Erythema. 

The flaccidity and dryness of the skin; 

The presence of wrinkles ; 

The presence of pigmentary spots or warts ; 

The whitening and falling of the hair. 

This period among women, precedes, accompanies or 
follows the menopause or arrest of menstruation, with- 
out being in any way connected with it. 

Among men, it is associated with the diminu- 
tion of the genital faculties. 

In both sexes, the critical age is around forty, the 
critical period is from the fortieth to the sixtieth year; 
it is followed by the senile period or old age. This 
period arrives earlier when little care has been given to 
the skin, or if the subject has local or general maladies, 
and above all troubles, excitements or illness of the 
nervous system. The less good the hygienic conditions, 
the lower the social conditions, the sooner senility shows 
itself. To this rule, however, there are numerous excep- 
tions. Work and overindulgence in pleasure are two 
factors in causing premature old age. 



ACCORDING TO AGE 25 

What must be done during this critical period to pre- 
vent the aging of the face? 

Among men, and often among women too, the appear- 
ance of flat or raised spots, called senile warts mark the 
beginning of the critical period. 

As these are generally the result of glandular troubles 
of the skin, it follows that they can be prevented up to 
a certain point, by using regularly the means indicated 
for greasy and drv skins. 

But in every case rubbing them, pulling them or irri- 
tating them is prohibited, as this may cause them to 
become epitheliomata or cancers of the skin. 

As to the graying and whitening of the hair, dyeing 
having more inconveniences than advantages, it is best 
to abstain from all commercial compositions of this kind. 
Even the very best pharmaceutical mixtures are not 
exempt from danger. However, the Ultra Violet rays of 
the Quartz Lamp, if applied early and frequently enough, 
will in most cases bring back the original color. * 

Congestion of the face and wrinkles are woman's 
greatest enemies. Against the appearance of erythema 
and congestion of the face, it is often necessary to apply 
sprays of water or very hot lotions. For some years the 
use of high frequency currents, electricity, massage and 
scarifying has helped to cure the congestions in part, or 
at least to reduce them. Outside of these means, the 
prevention of congestion consists in not wearing tight 
clothing, in hygiene, in the regulation of the digestive 
and genito-urinary functions ; in a word, in avoiding 
everything causing local or general congestion. 



*See "Loss of Hair and its Treatment by the new Quartz 
Light Rays," published by William R. Jenkins Co., New York. 



26 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



Wrinkles are creases or ruts more or less deep, formed 
in the skin by the effect of time, or by the repeated 
action of certain muscular contractions, or as the result 
of faulty nutrition. 

They are to a certain degree the visible proofs of the 
sentiments and sensations, which have been the most 
often experienced. 

They result from the diminution of the tone of the 
skin and muscles, the skin stretching and the muscles 
not working any more. 

They are found in those parts of the face which are 
most mobile, around the eyes, upon the chin, between 
the lips, the nose and the cheeks. 

The following are the most frequent and the most 
characteristic wrinkles : 

Transverse wrinkles of the forehead: normal among 
men after forty years of age, pathological among infants 
who are cachectic, rachitic or idiotic. 

Vertical wrinkles of the forehead: normal after forty 
years and among brain workers. 

Arched or crossed wrinkles of the forehead: prema- 
ture, they are related with physical or moral suffering. 

Crows-feet: premature before forty years, first sign of 
old age. Formed by divergent wrinkles at the outer 
angle of the eyes. 

Wrinkles of the nose: transverse or downward, due to 
old age. 

Naso-labial wrinkles: from the corners of the nose to 
the angle of the mouth, premature and often hereditary. 

Wrinkles geno-mental : from the cheeks to the chin. 

Wrinkles dense and crossed, over all the face, sign of 
senility and decrepitude. 

Palpebral wrinkles, upon the eyelids, giving the eyes 



ACCORDING TO AGE 27 

an air of lassitude, frequent among the genitally over- 
worked, at the time of menstruation and among those 
with uterine diseases. 

Wrinkles come sooner with men. They are also seen 
early and abundantly among nervous people, and the 
emaciated of both sexes, and generally among those sub- 
ject to passion or of an intense psychical life. 

Before speaking of the means for preventing or palli- 
ating wrinkles, I desire to call attention to one point in 
particular. Children and young people are allowed to 
make faces, indeed are taught to make them. Their atti- 
tudes and their expressions are not sufficiently super- 
vised. They are permitted to become round shouldered 
because of a wrong position while sitting or not having 
sufficient light for working by, and at the same time they 
make faces. 

Also they contort their faces just for fun, for mimicry, 
or when they tell untruths, and thus the folds are made 
gradually, and are the forerunners of future wrinkles. 

Can wrinkles be prevented? 

Wrinkles are connected with the want of tonicity of 
the skin, that itself being connected with feebleness of 
the nervous functions, with the atrophy of the glands 
(and muscles and the disappearance of the fat. 
'/Therefore, the functions of the glands of the skin 
must be stimulated and the muscles toned up. 

It is necessary to increase the fat, if it is decreasing; 
in certain cases persons must be made to take on fat. 

Wrinkles being often the expression of what preoccu- 
pies one, of the sentiments and passions, everything that 
disturbs the quietude of life should be avoided. These 
means are beyond the reach of most of us. According 



28 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

i^ 
to Mantagazza, the famous expert on Cosmetics, in order 
to prevent wrinkles : the face must be kept still, oily- 
substances must be applied, and it must be protected 
from the rays of the sun and the variations of tempera- 
ture. 

But when wrinkles have come, what can be done ? 

Massage has been much vaunted. It is, in fact, of 
advantage to regulate the circulation, to facilitate the 
glandular secretions and to re-animate the muscular 
energy. It must be done systematically, and following 
the position of the muscles and the course of the blood 
vessels. It requires, therefore, special knowledge. 

It should be done regularly every day for a month or 
six weeks and sometimes even for a longer period; no 
specified time can be given either for the length of the 
sittings or for the time required for a cure, which will 
vary according to circumstances, depending on the sub- 
ject, fatigue, irritation of the skin, profession, etc. 

With massage is joined local hydropathy, friction, 
lotions, electricity and sometimes quietude. This immo- 
bility is obtained by means of bandages. 

These bandages are coated with compositions slightly 
astringent, in order to render the tissue firm. They are 
often replaced by mixtures spread on the forehead or 
the face and called beauty masks. 

They are kept on all night, or for a day, and when 
removed are followed by rubbing with alcohol, local 
douches and electricity. 

The electricity is given in the form of continuous cur- 
rents, interrupted currents, or vibrating massage. 

By means of a combination of these different processes 
one can attenuate or diminish wrinkles, but seldom make 
them disappear altogether. 



ACCORDING TO AGE 29 

I shall just mention in regard to the treatment for 
wrinkles that, complete sequestration in a dark room in 
order to avoid all sensations or emotions, sub-cutaneous 
injections of parafine, enameling the face with special 
compositions and glazings, are unprofessional and the 
two latter very dangerous for the skin. 



HYGIENE ACCORDING TO REGION 

In the preceding chapters, I have spoken of the hygiene 
of the face considered in general and according to age. 
The hairy parts, the eyes, the nose, the ears, the lips 
require special cares. 

I have already mentioned in regard to the hairy por- 
tions, what must be done for the mustache and beard. 
Very often the scaly condition and suppuration of the 
mustache are the results of affections of the interior of 
the nose ; therefore, pains must be taken to prevent colds 
in the head and runnings from the nose, and to treat 
them promptly. The particular care of the hairy parts 
are those mentioned for the scalp, but keeping in mind 
always that the skin of the lips, of the cheeks and chin 
are more delicate and more susceptible than the scalp. 

The eyes, above all of the newly born, must be pro- 
tected from too strong a light, rubbing and dust. The 
eyes should be bathed twice a day with lukewarm water, 
which has been previously boiled and cooled, and if 
there is the least tendency to redness and glueing of the 
eyelids : cold lotions of camomile, tea or boracic water 
very weak, from 2 to 10 per 100 must be employed. 

Among older children, the light, and the position of 
the body while working are of the utmost importance to 
avoid fatigue of the eyes, conjunctivitis and myopia. 
The light above all should be sufficient without being 



32 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

too intense, should come over the left shoulder, and if 
the child is reading or writing, it should be done at a 
sloping desk. 

When a child is convalescing the most stringent care 
should be given to these points. 

Reading in bed or by a poor light is one of the causes 
of redness and swelling of the eyelids. The same is the 
case when there is want of sleep or when the eyes are 
employed for fine work. 

The nose may be red, congested, tumified, moist and 
greasy, or covered with little comedons. 

In the formulae on cosmetics each of these con- 
ditions will be treated. In order to prevent redness of 
the nose, avoid bending the head when reading or 
directly after eating; avoid cold feet and constipation, 
regulate the menses, and above all bathe it with hot water 
night and morning. 

A red nose is often the sign of an intra-nasal trouble ; 
this must be treated, as nasal catarrh sometimes provokes 
eye, ear, and lip troubles. 

The ears: it is necessary to avoid cleaning the interior 
by means of hard bodies ; after washing them it is best 
to dry them by means of a piece of fine cotton. 

Frequently little lumps form in the ear, resulting from 
the accumulation of cerumen or wax. These lumps 
which deafen and cause dizziness and pain disappear if, 
three or four days in succession, peroxide of hydrogen 
@ 12% is poured in, which must be left in from five 
to ten minutes, then followed by oil of vaseline warm 
and slightly carbolized. At the same time they should 
be washed out twice a day with warm boracic or alkaline 
lotions. 

In removing these lumps and thus cleansing the ears, 



ACCORDING TO REGION 33 

the suppurations, or eczematous growths in the 
passage, which are generally very painful and obstinate, 
are avoided. 

The lips are often cracked or split. In order to avoid 
these inconveniences, they should be bathed in lukewarm 
water, thoroughly dried and some oily substance applied, 
as borated glycerine, honey of roses, or a cerate, as is 
indicated in the cosmetic guide. 

Dental liquids and pastes, when they are irritant or 
acid, cause redness and desquamation, fissures and cracks 
of the lips. Great care must be exercised in the use 

j of these preparations. 

Affections of the mouth and teeth also affect the lips ; 
there are also general and febrile affections of the lips 

1 which necessitate preventive means to avoid their crack- 
ing and splitting. Finally all contagious diseases, espe- 
cially those of the mouth, the tongue, the tonsils, the 
throat, the larynx or the bronchial tubes can be trans- 
mitted by kissing or by handkerchiefs which have been 
used for wiping the lips. All persons suffering from any 
of these troubles should avoid kissing or being kissed, 

! or lending their pocket handkerchiefs. 

In concluding this rapid sketch on hygiene, I insist 

( upon the importance which handkerchiefs and toilette 

i articles have as agents in the transmission of contagious 
diseases, particularly diphtheria, syphilis, tuberculosis, 

i and also as agents for the production of diseases of the 
eyes, the nose and the lips. 



GENERAL HYGIENE 

Besides these prescriptions relating especially to 
hygiene of the face, there must also be taken into con- 
sideration the prevention of diseases by hygiene in gen- 
eral. All the visceral or general diseases, the troubles 
of nutrition, nervous troubles from physical or mental 
causes, react upon the face. The surroundings, the 
clothing, the manner of living, all act in the same way. 

The surroundings. — Either physical or moral. For 
the greatest number among us, the conditions in which 
we live, the confined air of rooms, deprivation of sun- 
shine or the dust and high temperature produced by 
furnaces or artificial lights, all add their noxious effects 
to that of want of air. 

This is followed by a poor action of the glands of the 
skin, hence the necessity of friction, of baths and 
douches. The daily use of hydropathy, and the exercise 
of sports, by preference in the open air, are most useful. 
Among the sports I would mention horseback riding, 
football and the bicycle for men ; croquet, tennis for 
women ; walking, climbing, canoeing and automobiling 
for both. During all exercises in the open air, women, if 
they are anxious about their complexion, should be on 
their guard against the sun, the air and variations of 
temperature, always remembering that there is no pret- 
tier complexion however, than that which is accustomed 
to brave the seasons and the climate, 



36 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

The style of life. — The moral surroundings, (the social 
life, the emotions, the passions, the cares and troubles), 
affect by their agitations the nutrition of the skin and 
predispose to wrinkle prematurely, and by overwork 
lead to emaciation and its consequences. 

Hence, the influence of the education and manner of 
life upon the preservation of the youth of the face. I 
consider the life of the drawing-room the most injurious, 
when begun too early or indulged in too much ; it fades 
and dries the skin and causes premature wrinkles. All 
sorts of excitements indulged in too often have the same 
bad effect on the circulation, the nerves and the nutrition 
in general. 

The clothing. — Many erythemata of the young, sebor- 
rhoea or desquamation of the face and acne, have their 
origin in the troubles of the circulation arising from 
clothes or corsets worn too tight, or waist drawn in 
too much, especially when joined to sedentary work in 
confined air, overdoing of social life, or excitement of 
the emotions and passions too early and too much. 

Tight garters lead to varicose veins through inter- 
ference with the veinous circulation, and to a flushed and 
congested face. 

Diet. — This must vary according to the sex, the age, 
the manner of life, the state of the health, etc. 

On principle it is necessary to subordinate the quality 
and quantity of the food to the waste, in order to avoid 
the accumulation and its consequences, the principal of 
which is arthritis with its eruptions : prurigo, eczema, 
erythema, dry and oily seborrhoea and acne. Also 
to overeating, particularly of meat, and to want of 
exercise, must be attributed constipation and colitis, 
which often lead to appendicitis. Women (except in 



GENERAL HYGIENE 37 

cases where through professional or other reasons they 
have much waste, especially through bodily exercise, or 
during pregnancy) ought to take less nourish- 
ment than men, or should take less nourishing food, 
excess of food causing among them erythema and acne. 
The age should also be a guide for the normal amount 
of alimentation. 

While nursing children, in order to avoid prurigo, 
rashes, eczema or its complications, the diet must be 
regulated. The rations for the very young should be 
calculated to correspond to the normal weight 
100 grammes of mother-milk or of cow's milk for each 
kilogramme of the child's weight, or 10 grammes to 100 
grammes. 

Everything being the same, this ration may be 
increased in cold climates, in winter, and in high lati- 
tudes ; diminished in the same proportion in opposite 
conditions. 

The same directions should be observed at the time 
of weaning a child ; the food becoming more abundant 
and more varied, according to the development of the 
child, at the time of dentition, with the increase of weight 
and size. 

For the youth and adult, overfeeding must be equally 
avoided, as it is the cause of appendicitis. 

Besides, everything difficult of digestion must be 
abstained from, particularly foods which ferment easily 
(fish, crustaceans, game which has been kept till it gets 
a high flavor, canned food), acids, spices and condiments 
(pepper, mustard, pickles, gherkins). 

Salted food, pork, greasy food, certain vegetables 
which act upon the kidneys (sorrel, rhubarb, tomatoes), 
certain fruits which cause nettlerash (particularly straw- 



38 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

berries) ought to be avoided by those with sensitive 
skins. Other things also to be taken into consideration 
relating to diet, are : the predisposition, professional obli- 
gations, the necessity of special cures in regard to 
arthritis, obesity or emaciation. 

For old people, the food should be reduced to a mini- 
mum and come near to that of a baby's. 

The best criterion in the indication of a good diges- 
tion, are regular bowels and good sleep. 

If constipation exists it must be overcome; it is indeed 
the factor in circulatory troubles of the abdomen, and 
is frequently the predisposing cause of diseases of the 
face and in particular of erythema, seborrhoea and acne. 

In concluding this chapter it may be said that a healthy 
complexion is only found with a healthy body. 



COSMETICS 

CARE OF BEAUTY, ART OF BEAUTIFYING 

Cosmetics constitute one of the means (chemical, 
physical, or medico-chirurgical) employed to preserve 
and heighten beauty, to give the appearance 
of beauty, to improve the looks by correcting 
the imperfections and hiding the failings. It is 
particularly for the care and the hygiene of the face that 
cosmetics are employed, a branch of pharmaceutics, 
which has fallen into the domain of persons whose 
methods are outside of the regular medical profession. 

The remedies ordinarily used under the general name 
of Cosmetics are not only dangerous for the skin, but 
have also caused fatal cases of poisoning; and it must 
not be ignored by the physician that a woman often makes 
use of detrimental means, which she considers necessary 
to captivate, or to attract and hold him whom she loves. 

The study of cosmetics is divided into three parts : 
I. Chemical cosmetics. 
II. Physical and Mechanical cosmetics. 

III. Medico-Surgical cosmetics. 



CHEMICAL COSMETICS 

ART OF THE PERFUMER. 

The following are the varieties of (chemical) cos- 
metics : 

Liquids. Solids. 

Toilet Waters. Preparations of Glycerine. 

Lotions. Creams and Solid Paints. 

Milks Jellies. 

Alcohols. Cerates and Pomades. 

Vinegars. Ointments and Balsams. 

Dyes. Soaps. 

Paints. Powders, Veloutines, Papers. 

Dyes and paints, which are generally dangerous 
and poisonous for the skin, will be considered separately. 

LIQUID COSMETICS. 

Liquid cosmetics cleanse, render firm and strengthen 
the skin. They overcome its shininess, greasiness, scales 
and wrinkles. 

All fluid cosmetics having for their base alcohol, 
glycerine and vinegar, will dry the skin in time. 

TOILET WATERS. 

Indications. — These are used for cleansing and soft- 
ening the skin ; they preserve its suppleness, clear the 
complexion and prevent wrinkling. 



42 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

Toilet waters properly so-called are solutions or sub- 
stances dissolved in pure water with the addition of alco- 
hol or glycerine, chemical antiseptics or modifying mix- 
tures. 

Pure water. — This is the best of all cosmetic waters : 
if it is chalky, borate of soda or a few drops of ammonia 
may be added to it. 

It is preferable to have it boiled. It is generally best 
to use it lukewarm, hot if the skin is greasy, cold if dry. 
Rain water is supposed to have excellent properties for 
the preservation of the complexion. 

Antiseptic waters. — Sterilized water to which borate 
of soda has been added (2 per 100 boric acid), formol, 
essences or perfumes, coal tar or similar preparations 
with soap as a base. 

Modifying waters. — Water with the addition of ben- 
zoin, alcoholic solutions, camphorated alcohol, bi-car- 
bonate and carbonate of soda. Thermal waters : Alka- 
line, sulphurous, arsenical, copper holding; particularly 
Vichy, etc., are types of natural modifying waters. 

Distilled waters. — Water obtained by steam distilla- 
tion of plants. 

They are endowed with antiseptic properties, are alter- 
ative and astringent: rose water, orange flower water, 
cherry laurel, lavender waters, etc. 

They are used especially for toning up, removing oil, 
and clearing the complexion. They may be used pure or 
with the addition of boiled water or other preparations 
of liquid cosmetics. 

Among the distilled waters, rose water is most used. 
Mixed with neutral glycerine or some other of the cos- 
metical preparations, such as sweet and bitter almonds, 



LIQUID COSMETICS 43 

benzoin, borax, peroxide of hydrogen, it gives to these 
preparations a softening and astringent effect. It helps 
to preserve the brilliancy of the complexion. 

All these distilled waters must be used fresh. 

Peroxide of hydrogen. — Peroxide of hydrogen con- 
tains from 4 to 12 parts of oxygen. The one most in 
use has 10 parts. It must be kept from the air and 
light. This water being very acid is consequently very 
irritating to the skin. It must be neutralized by the 
addition of borate or bi-carbonate of soda, at the rate 
of 10 grammes to a quart of water. It is a disinfectant 
and endowed with bleaching properties, which explains 
its indication in all cases of discoloration of the skin. 

For its use as a cosmetic 1 to 10 parts of boiled 
water is added to it, according to whether it is wished 
to obtain an alterative or antiseptic action. 

LOTIONS. 

Lotions are made of animal, mineral or vegetable 
products, either natural or mixed with pure water, dis- 
tilled aromatic water, alcohol or glycerine. 

They are generally applied by dipping sterilized cotton 
into them, which is passed over the face several times, 
tapping it gently or spreading it on. 

Animal lotions. — Milk, honey, egg (white or yellow), 
lanolin. Bouillons are also used, particularly that made 
from veal. 

Vegetable lotions. — Sap of plants or herbs, lemon or 
orange juice, sap of the fig, fresh cucumbers, straw- 
berries crushed, potatoes (the pulp of potatoes boiled in 
water and lukewarm), water of marsh mallows, of let- 
i tuce, camomile, bran, of beans, spinach and plantain. 

These lotions, acid (lemons) or emollient (most of 



44 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

them), act upon the congestive condition of the skin. 
They clear the complexion. 

Mineral lotions. — These take the place of washes and 
have as their base vaseline, glycerine and mineral 
essence. They must not be used near a fire, and must 
be made of pure neutral substances. White vaseline 
agrees with dry skins, glycerine and the essences with 
greasy skins ; they do not irritate easily or not at all. 

Usually these lotions are not used in a natural state, 
but in the form of creams, glycerates or ointments. 

ALCOHOLIC LOTIONS PROPERLY CALLED 
TOILETTE VINEGARS. 

Cosmetic waters are macerations, alcoholic solutions 
either pure or mixed with water (hydroalcoholics), or 
are distillations of essences and perfumes. 

The principal perfumes or essences are : 

1. Vegetable essences. — Acacia, bergamot, lemon, 
cassia, cinnamon, geranium, stock, heliotrope, iris, laven- 
der, marjoram, mint, orange, carnation, roses, rosemary, 
thyme, vanilla. 

2. Animal perfumes. — Amber, castoreum, civet, 
musk; 

3. Artificial perfumes. — Of natural or chemical 
origin (synthetic perfumes). 

4. The balsams, resins and gums. — Benzoin, Peruvian 
bark, nutmeg-butter, tolu. 

To them are added : 
Products of animals: Honey, etc. 
Chemical or medicinal substances: Peroxide of 
hydrogen, ammonia, etc. 

Fatty substances: Oils and glycerines. 
The typical toilet water is eau de Cologne. 



LIQUID COSMETICS 45 

Alcohol acts as a tonic to the skin, removes oil, but in 
the end dries it and makes it peel, predisposing it to 
hyperaemia and wrinkles ; this is the reason that oily 
substances must be employed as correctives. 

Here are two useful indications for the use of toilet 
waters with a base of alcohol in the cleansing of the 
face: 

Greasy skins: with a tendency to acne (for brunettes 
especially and for blondes with oily skins) : 

1. Pass over the face with a piece of tine linen some 
greasy substance (vaseline, lanolin, glycerine, creams) ; 

2. Dry with cotton or piece of fine linen dipped in an 
alcoholic toilet water; 

3. Follow with a light powdering; 

4. Wipe to remove the superfluous powder. 

Dry skins: with a tendency to scaling and congestion 
(blondes and reds especially) : 

1. Wipe with the alcoholic lotion ; 

2. Dry and powder ; 

3. Wipe with a piece of fine linen dipped in a neutral 
and non-irritant oily substance. 

4. Wipe off the excess of oil. 

It is to be preferred that those having a dry skin 
should avoid the use of powder, which interferes with 
the respiration of the skin. 

TOILET VINEGARS. 

Toilet vinegars are preparations with a base of vinegar, 
it may be either natural or acetic acid, to which is added 
alcohol, perfumes, resins and a color. 

On account of the acetic acid which they contain, toilet 
vinegars act as a tonic, stimulating the circulation and 



46 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

removing oil and scales. They are, therefore, efficacious 
in preventing wrinkles, hyperaemia and herpes. But 
because of the alcohol, resins and benzoin which they 
contain, they may make the skin peel. 

They must, therefore, be much diluted before using 
(one or two tea-spoonfuls in the toilet water), and as a 
corrective they should be followed by an application of 
oil or fat. 

VIRGINAL MILKS. 

These owe their name to their milky appearance. 
They are emulsions, that is to say, mixtures of greasy 
bodies with alcohol ; antiseptic and astringent. 

Most of them have resin for a base. Almost always 
benzoin which has some antiseptic properties enters into 
their composition, and some quillaya, under the form 
of a tincture, which dissolves the greasy substances and 
produces the emulsion. 

Virginal milks soften the skin and are antiseptic, but 
because of the presence of resin, they have an astringent 
and drying action. 

Their correctives are the alkaline fats : neutral vase- 
line, and lanolin. 

They are particularly indicated for dry skins, for 
redness, hyperaemia, blotches on the skin and granular 
acne of the menopause, and as preventives or pallia- 
tives of wrinkles. 

Distilled waters enter into the composition of these 
virginal milks (rose-water, cherry-laurel water, bitter 
almond), also fats (glycerine, wax, spermaceti, oils, 
lanolin), soaps, antiseptics (boric acid, borates, sali- 
cylic acid). 



SOLID COSMETICS 4? 

COSMETIC OILS AND BRILLIANTINES. 

Cosmetic oils are : animal, vegetable, mineral. 
They are used pure or mixed with alcohol, glycerine 
and essences. — These mixtures are called brilliantines. 

Homogeneous brilliantines have, as a base, castor oil 
dissolved in alcohol of 90° or 95°, or glycerine mixed 
with perfumed alcohol. 

Non-homogeneous brilliantines have for their base oil 
of vaseline mixed with alcohol. They must be shaken 
before using. 

Brilliantines are used in the care of the hair and beard. 
They supply the absence of the sebaceous and sweat- 
gland secretions. They lubricate the hair and render 
it more pliable and brilliant. Because of the alcohol 
which they contain, they have after prolonged use a 
drying effect ; the hair splits and falls out, therefore, 
their use must not be overdone. 



SOLID COSMETICS. 

Solid cosmetics vary from a fluid consistency resem- 
bling liquids and especially oils, almost to absolute firm- 
ness. It depends upon whether solid substances, par- 
ticularly powders, enter into their composition. 

Creams owe their names to their consistency and color, 
which resembles the cream of milk. 

Creams have as their base greasy bodies and watery 
solutions. It is to their richness in water that the creams 
owe their non-irritant action and are often softening. 

According to the nature of the greasy body which 
they contain, creams may be divided thus : 

Fatty creams, dry creams and indifferent creams. 



48 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

Fatty creams. — They have as their base lanolin, 
vaseline, stearate of % soda and potash. 

Dry creams (glycerized) c — Have as their base glycer- 
ised starch only, or are mixed with soap, gelatine, cu- 
cumber cream. 

Indifferent creams. — Have as base, sapolan, lanolin 
and similar ingredients. 

With these different fats are incorporated powders 
and antiseptic substances (salicylic and boracic acid) 
and perfumes. 

When the consistency of the cream is increased with 
wax, they constitute cold creams. 

In all creams distilled waters may be incorporated 
(rose-water, cherry-laurel water), in order to increase 
their antiseptic and softening action. 

Creams in general are one of the best cosmetics for the 
face ; they preserve the brilliancy and purity of the skin 
and complexion, making the skin firmer and thus at the 
same time prevent wrinkling; they act besides upon 
scales by preventing peeling of the skin ; they also 
serve to retain the powder. 

Too prolonged use of creams may lead to drying and 
makes the skin flaccid ; for this reason it is best to use 
it only after the morning toilet and to wipe the face 
lightly after using. There will remain enough on it to 
beautify the skin and give it what is needed. 

Fatty creams agree with skins subject to hyperemia, 
and with blondes who have dry skins, Cheeseborough's 
neutral white vaseline is often used pure or with the addi- 
tion of oxyde of zinc in small quantities. 

Dry creams (glycerines) are useful for greasy, red, 
congested skins, for granular acne and for blondes with 
greasy skins. 



SOLID COSMETICS 49 

The glycerates should be prepared with neutral 
glycerine and wheat starch. They do not lend them- 
selves to the addition of distilled waters, but they can 
be incorporated by means of the tincture of quillaya 
saponaria. At the same time this tincture facilitates the 
addition of oil of sweet almonds, oil of gomenol, cocoa- 
nut butter, cucumber ointment and an amount of astrin- 
gent products, strengthening or antiseptic, according to 
the action desired The glycerates are the foundation of 
the creams of commerce. 

The glyceroles are made from glycerine held in solu- 
tion and especially medicinal substances in suspension, 
of antiseptic or astringent compounds. 

These are rather jellies. 

Indifferent creams agree in general with all skins ; they 
are indicated particularly for irritable skins, inclined to 
eczema, or which are subject to eruptions, and when oily 
or dry creams cannot be borne. 

It is to be noted that the base of these creams is 
sapolan, lanolin, oleo-calcareous liniment and similar 
substances. These different substances have the advan- 
tage that they can be mixed together or with glycerates, 
are soluble in water, and can be easily removed with 
warm water. 

Diadermine is a soft glycerine soap, is adhesive, neu- 
tral, non absorbable, soluble in water and mixes with 
both solids and liquids. 

Sapolan is a pharmaceutical compound, consisting of : 

60 per cent, of a mixture of naphthol, naphthaline, 
creosote, phenol, (produced by distillation of red naphtha 
of Galicia). 

1 part and a half or 37 per cent, of lanolin; 

3 to 4 per cent, of anhydrous soap. 



50 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

It looks like vaseline ; absorbs liquids, mixes with 
equal parts both of distilled and lead water. 

It is much used in medicated creams. 

Lanolin, extract of the suet of sheep, is neutral, has 
little odor; there are two varieties of it, lanolin anhy- 
drous and lanolin hydrated, which contains 25 per cent, 
of water. 

Lanolin penetrates the skin easily. Mixed with vase- 
line and pure or distilled water in equal parts, it forms 
an excellent excipient for incorporating greatly differ- 
ing substances. 

Oleo-calcareous liniment is formed of a mixture of 
equal parts of lime water and sweet almond oil. 

This mixture, a kind of soap made of liquid chalk, 
can be mixed with the above substances. With the addi- 
tion of lanolin and inert powders, it constitutes an excel- 
lent base for creams. 

COLD CREAMS AND CERATES. 

Cold creams and cerates are very closely related. 
Cerates stand between cold creams and ointments. Both, 
formerly much used, have been less employed since 
the introduction of mineral fats into cosmetics, as these 
do not, like the former, become so quickly rancid and 
do not irritate and dry the skin by closing the glandular 
outlets. 

Cold Creams are composed of wax, with spermaceti, 
oil of sweet almonds, rosewater, with or without the 
addition of cocoa butter and glycerine. They resemble 
creams, but differ from them by the absence of powder. 
Benzoin is added in order to preserve them. 

To give them the color of the skin eosine is added. 



SOLID COSMETICS 51 

Cerates have as their base animal or vegetable oil and 
wax. They differ from cold creams by having different 
solid substances incorporated with them. 

They cannot be mixed with fluids, which distinguishes 
them from creams. 

They act like creams but are more adhesive. They 
are used as a foundation for paints. 

Cold creams do not agree with all skins. After pro- 
longed use they dry and wrinkle them. 

OINTMENTS. 

Ointments which are rarely used in cosmetics, but prin- 
cipally for skin diseases, are mixtures of oils, fats, ethers, 
wax and glycerines. 

As modifying agents, distilled water, glycerine, 
essences, balsams, resins, and chemical as well as medi- 
cinal substances are added. 

They may be perfumed and colored according to taste 
and the purpose for which they are to be used. 

Their action depends upon their preparation and com- 
position. On principle they suit dry skins best, 
unless they contain medicaments indicated in particular 
cases. 

The best known salve for softening the skin of the 
face is cucumber ointment, freshly prepared, which may 
also be used as a base for different preparations. 

The banana enjoys a similar reputation for softening 
and strengthening the skin. 

SALVES AND BALSAMS. 

Salves and balsams are complex preparations closely 
' allied with ointments. 



52 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

Salves generally have as a base resin, and balsams aro- 
matic spirits. 

PASTES. 

Medicinal pastes are firm salves, thickened either by 
the addition of powders, spermaceti or wax. 

Cosmetic pastes are preparations made of the crushed 
pits of certain fruits. 

Almond paste, either dry or liquid, is the one most in 
use for the face. It has a softening -effect. 

The liquid paste of almonds prevents the evaporation 
of the perspiration ; it cleanses, oils and gives lustre and 
flexibility to the skin. Combined with rose water and 
benzoin, it forms one of the best cosmetics for the fresh- 
ening of the complexion. 

JELLIES. 

Jellies are little used in cosmetics. They have as their 
base caseine (albumin of milk), or gelatine and grenetine 
(bone-extract). 

They are mixed with glycerine, creams, fats and with 
inert or medicinal powders. 

They are very softening to the skin, for which they 
form a protecting coating. They also prevent conges- 
tion. 

SOAPS. 

Soaps are the foundation of all hygiene of the face, 
cleanliness being the point of departure for health. Soaps 
are mixtures of fats and alkaline lyes. 

In order not to be injurious for the skin they ought to 
be neutral. 



SOLID COSMETICS 53 

Soap dissolves the greasy matters of the skin by the 
action of its fatty substances, and the debris of the epi- 
dermis by the action of the alkalines of which it is com- 
posed. 

But in consequence of the alkaline which it contains, 
soap if used too much, irritates the skin and makes it 
dry, sometimes congesting it, particularly with infants 
or blondes with fine dry skins. 

Soaps are divided thus : 

1. Hard soaps. 

2. Soft soaps. 

3. Soapy preparations. 

1. Hard soaps, overfatted soaps, white soaps, neutral 
or Castile soap have as their base soda of a very feeble 
alkaline reaction. They come in the shape of firm, w^hite 
pastes. They are useful for all, particularly for persons 
with greasy skins. 

2. Soft soaps (green soap, kitchen soap) have for 
their base potash, contain glycerine and alkali in excess. 

They come in the shape of soft, dark brown pastes. 
They are not used for the care of the face. 

3. Soapy preparations. These are liquid soaps (soap 
tinctures), soap in leaves, soap powder, which answer 
for certain purposes. 

Tincture of soap mixes with alcohol, with glycerine 
or water and is used in making certain ointments. 

Soap leaves are useful when traveling, and powdered 
soap for shaving. 

Incorporated with hard soaps, are perfumes and 
essences, and medicinal substances. They are colored 
in various ways. 

Soft soaps are only used medicinally. 



54 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

Certain skins which secrete much oil, which are 
inclined to acne or peel much, often require soap ; there 
are others on the contrary, particularly those fine, dry 
skins, which are easily congested ; soap irritates such 
skins and causes their scaling. 

Among these latter, the use of softening or medicated 
soaps is indicated, but it must only be used at intervals 
and be followed by an application of glycerine, or of a 
cream and sometimes of powder. 

Salicylicated, ichtyol, tar, sulphur or sublimated 
soaps, agree with dry skins ; borated and naphtha 
soaps with a foundation of coal tar are good for oily 
skins. 

For irritable skins, glycerated, mild soaps or cocoa 
butter soap suits best. 

POWDERS AND VELOUTINES. 

Powders or veloutines which are of much interest to 
women, are mixtures of vegetable or of mineral powders, 
finely pulverized. 

The inoffensive powders in use are : Wheat starch, 
corn, rice, powder of almonds deprived of their oil, orris- 
root, carbonate of magnesia or chalk, talcum, and oxide 
of zinc. 

Rice powder is rendered more unctuous and softer by 
the addition of talcum. 

Its adherent qualities are increased by a proportion of 
20 per cent, of oxide of zinc. 

They are scented with various essences. 

The pink powders are colored with carmine and 
eosine ; for yellow powders yellow ochre is used, as 
well as Sienna clay and Bismark brown. 



SOLID COSMETICS 55 

Rice powders are very often adulterated and thus ren- 
dered injurious, because they then contain phosphate of 
chalk, alabaster, plaster, sa 1 t of bismuth, white lead, and 
carbonate of lead. There have been serious accidents 
caused by poisoning from the lead or arsenic which they 
contain. 

Rice powder has then an irritating and inflammatory 
action. It obstructs the orifices of the glands and 
impedes the respiration of the skin and the escape of the 
oils and perspiration. It has also been blamed for pro- 
ducing wrinkles. 

Should powder be used? It depends principally upon 
the nature and component parts of the powder. 

When it contains no harmful ingredients, it may be 
used according to the needs of the skin. 

Powder should only be put on when finishing the 
toilet. 

For those having greasy skins, powder should be used 
alone. 

For those with dry skins, a neutral fat (vaseline, lano- 
lin, glycerine) should first be used, or one of the creams 
given above. 

In any case, as little powder as possible should be used 
and never before retiring for the night. 

COSMETIC STICKS. 

Cosmetic sticks are used in order to make the hair 
keep in place or to make it shine. They are composed of 
soaps, wax, gum, scented and colored like the soaps. 
These are solid brilliantines. 



55 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

DYES AND PAINTS. 

I have purposely left the dyes and paints till the last, 
because these products are not hygienic at all. Paint 
should be entirely abandoned if it were not that coquetry 
and social obligations make some people desirous to 
look as if they were not growing old, and with others 
there is the necessity of looking young. 

But it must be remembered that with those predisposed 
to affections of the skin, dyes produce long continuing 
and painful eruptions, bring on eczema, without taking 
into consideration the accidents from poisoning. 

Paints, if they give to some the illusion of being as 
they would like to be, are with others a professional 
necessity, among actors for instance, who are forced to 
make themselves up. 

Paints injure the skin very rapidly and age it, hence 
they must be kept on as short a time as possible, in order 
to prevent their bad effects ; afterwards a soothing and 
softening application should be made. 

DYES. 

Before applying dyes, it should be ascertained that 
there exists no irritation or eruption of the skin of the 
face or other parts of the body. First a soapy alkaline 
wash should be used to cleanse and remove the grease ; 
for this, take 20 grammes of Panama wood to one quart 
of water, to which has been added a teaspoon of green 
soap and 5 to 10 grammes of carbonate of soda ; then 
dry carefully. 

Sedative water or ammonia should never be used, as 
they may produce, in connection with the dye, a toxic 
mixture. 



DYES AND PAINTS 57 

Then apply the dye avoiding touching the skin. 

Dyes may be divided into vegetable and chemical. 

Vegetable dyes. — These are inoffensive, but not prac- 
tical. They do not adhere well, except those of light 
shade. 

They are : 

Light colored dyes. — Henna, a decoction of fever fuge 
or Swiss camomile ; a decoction of tea. 

Dark colored dyes. — Gall nuts, walnut water, tannin, 
China ink. 

Chemical dyes. — These are usually dangerous. Their 
application is difficult and must be done in two relays; 
first one application, then a second. The chemical dyes 
also can only be applied gradually, as they do not give 
any results until after they have been acted on by the 
air. 

The principal chemical dyes are: 

Light colored dyes. — Peroxide of hydrogen, the least 
dangerous, but results in breaking the hair and causing 
it to fall out. 

Brown dyes. — Based on metallic salts : lead, silver, bis- 
muth manganese. 

PAINTS. 

Paints of necessity must be adherent; they are used 
in the form of powders, liquid coatings, or creams. 

Paints containing vermillion (sulphur of mercury) or 
carbonate of lead are the most dangerous. 

The coloring matter of paints is obtained from flowers 
of carthame, the juice of the beetroot, carmine, cochineal 
for the red ones ; Prussian and ultramarine blue, for the 
blue; with lamp black, animal black or Indian ink for 
the black. 



58 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

The following are the component parts of paints : 

Paint powders. — Like rice powders. 

Liquid paints. — They are composed of distilled waters, 
glycerine and perfumes, to these are added the powders 
mentioned before. 

Paints as creams. — Like the glycerates, creams and 
ointments. 

Paints are used not only for the face, but also for the 
eyes and the hands. 

For the eyes, like the Orientals, kohol is used ; for the 
lips, preparations in the form of sticks or pencils, hav- 
ing for their base cocoa butter and wax with the addi- 
tion of oil of sweet almonds, honey of roses, and gly- 
cerine, and colored more or less pink, with carmine or 
eosine. 



PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL 
COSMETICS. 

These are physical cosmetics in use for the preserving 

and beautifying of the face, a series of means, physical 
and mechanical, which are: (1) Hydrotherapy, friction 
and packs; (2) Massage ; (3) Electric treatment. 

HYDROTHERAPY, FRICTION, PACKS. 

Hydrotherapy has for its object the soothing and 
allaying of congestions, cleansing or stimulating the 
skin. This object is attained by giving to the skin the 
moisture in which it is wanting, by stimulating the secre- 
tions of the glands and the circulation. 

In order to bring about these effects lotions, sprays, 
douches and wet packs are employed. 

Lotions. — These are made of various toilet waters, 
alcohol, or vinegars, applied by the aid of cotton dipped 
in them, and are followed by applications of creams or 
powders, according to the indications. 

Sprays. — Sprays are either simple or medicated. The 
simple sprays are of toilet waters and vinegars, mineral 
or thermal waters. 

Cold sprays act as a tonic for the skin; hot sprays 
have a cleansing effect and reduce congestion. The latter 
are best done with a steam vaporiser. 

The spraying should not begin until a good stream of 
vapor is established. The patient should be placed eight 



60 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

inches from the instrument. Twenty minutes is the 
longest time allowable for each spraying. The surround- 
ing parts of the face must be protected by towels. 

Douches. — Can be applied in the form of jets, sprays 
or showers, cold or hot. 

Cold jets cause muscular contraction and prevent 
wrinkling. 

Hot jets act against local congestions which accom* 
pany acne. 

In the form of cold showers, dry, pale and scaly skins 
are benefited. 

Hot sprays promote the circulation, overcome flushes 
of the face and help to remove oily secretions and excess 
of perspiration. 

Cold and hot sprays in succession are good where a 
multiple effect is needed. 

On principle it is advisable to end with the cold spray. 

The douche is most effective after massage, while 
vaporising should preferably be used before it. 

Wet Packs. — They are indicated in every case of acne 
where congestion and swelling are present, or where 
there is an oily secretion accompanied with little crusts. 
In a word in every case where cleansing, cooling and 
calming are needed. 

They are made with compresses boiled in water, ster- 
ilized cotton, or antiseptic lint soaked in medicinal solu- 
tions. 

The packs will have no effect unless the compresses, 
etc., are kept moist by covering them with oiled silk or 
rubber tissue. 

Cold packs reduce congestion ; hot packs soften and 
soothe the parts. 

The use of the pack should be followed by spraying, or 



GENERAL MASSAGE 61 

by a lotion or douche, and afterwards, according to the 
effect to be obtained, by an application of cream, powder 
or ointment. 

MASSAGE. 

GENERAL MASSAGE OF THE FACE, TONIC 
MASSAGE. 

Massage of the face has been employed since time 
immemorial, either in the form of auto-massage, that is, 
massage done by the person herself, or by employing 
some one else. 

The process of massage for the face is the same as 
that for other parts cf the body, always using a certain 
gentleness. 

The different procedures are : Gently stroking, press- 
ing, kneading, patting, beating, pinching and shaking 
the skin. 

1. Grazing or gently stroking. — Consists in passing 
the cushions of the fingers over the skin in a series of cir- 
cular movements. The thumb rests firmly in one place, 
while the four fingers make these movements. 

2. Pressing. — This movement is the same as the for- 
mer, only executed with more force. The pressure must 
follow the course of the vessels and the direction of the 
muscles. 

3. Kneading. — Consists in picking up the skin 
between the thumb and the other fingers, following the 
direction of the muscles ; or leaving the four fingers at 
rest and using the thumb for going deeply into the skin. 

4. Patting. — Is done by the four fingers which move 
over the skin as a pianist moves his fingers over the keys 
of the piano. The thumb remains at rest. This form of% 
massage stimulates the circulation. 



62 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



5. Beating. — The four fingers beat upon the skin 
together, the thumb remains at rest. This treatment 
allays local congestion. 

6. Pinching. — The thumb, index and middle fingers 
pick up a fold of the skin firmly and release it suddenly, 
as an archer releases the arrow from his bow. 

7. Shaking. — This is a succession of quick pinches; 
done by seizing the skin firmly between the thumb and 
four fingers. The pinching and shaking act upon the 
muscles. 



TECHNIQUE OF MASSAGE. 

Massage should be preceded by washing, or by using 
lotions or the vaporiser on the face. 

The subject should be comfortably seated in an arm- 
chair. 

The operator, according to the parts to be treated, or 
the stage of the treatment, is either to the right or left, 
before or behind the person to be treated. 

The head of the patient is placed against the chest of 
the operator. Massage should never be done without the 
use of lubricants. 

For persons with oily skins talcum powder is best 
suited to facilitate the movement of the fingers. 

For those with dry skins vaseline is best. 

Where wrinkles are to be treated by massage the fol- 
lowing mixture give good results : 

Beef marrow 20 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 45 

Spermaceti 20 

White wax 2 

Essence of lemon 1 

Ac. Salicylic 0.25 " 



GENERAL MASSAGE 63 

Whatever the material used, the face must be wiped 
free of it after the massage is over. It is followed by a 
tonic lotion for pale and dry skins, an astringent for 
wrinkles, a stimulant for flushed faces, a lotion or a 
douche for acne; then a cream, salve or powder should 
be applied. 

According to the object of the massage, it should 
follow the direction of the blood vessels, where there is 
absence of secretion in dry skins and in facial conges- 
tion ; it should follow the folds of the skin and direction 
of the muscles, where wrinkles are to be obliterated ; it 
must follow the distribution of the glands on forehead, 
chin and cheeks where acne and oily seborrhoea are in 
evidence. 

The treatment should not last more than from ten to 
twenty minutes. It may be repeated every day or every 
second day according to the object to be attained. 

The interval between treatments should not be more 
than from six to eight days. 

Massage of the face should not be permitted where the 
subject is suffering from any general illness, has an 
inflammatory disease, suppuration of the skin or moist 
eczema. 

REGIONAL MASSAGE OF THE FACE. 

The following are the movements to be made accord- 
ing to the different parts of the face. 

Forehead. — Thumbs under and in front of the ears. 
The free fingers execute alternately transverse and zig- 
zag movements, directed from the middle of the fore- 
head to the temples and from the point where the hair 
ends to a line going over the eyes and nose. 



64 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 

Massage of nose. — This is done with the thumbs in 
same position as before with the aid of one or two 
fingers of each hand moving simultaneously, or seizing 
the nose between thumb and index finger. The move- 
ments start from the root of the nose going in the direc- 
tion of the nostrils, spread out towards the lips if it is 
s. case of acne or wrinkles, but going from the nostrils 
towards the forehead and spreading to the cheeks when 
erythema, or congestion or redness of the nose is treated. 

Cheeks. — The thumbs are placed below the chin on 
each side of the median line. The fingers of each hand 
execute movements starting from the nose and going 
towards the lower jaw in cases of acne and congestion 
of the face; starting from the jaw and going towards 
the nose when wrinkles or relaxed cheeks are to be 
improved. 

Chin. — The thumbs placed on the corner of the lower 
jaws, the other fingers move from inwards to outwards, 
from below up for acne and wrinkles ; from outwards to 
inwards, from below up when double chin is to be 
treated. 

Eyelids. — This is done exactly as the massage of the 
forehead, the fingers moving from above down and from 
inwards to outwards. 

Special indications. — For interference with the circu- 
lation (as acne, rosacea, acne vulgaris, scaly skin) mas- 
sage ought to be practiced along the course of the blood- 
vessels and preferably from the median line outwards. 

For folds. — Here the normal furrows or folds of the 
skin and the direction in which the muscles run, must 
be followed. The forehead should be stroked, eyes, eye- 
lids, chin and temples massaged. 






GENERAL MASSAGE 65 

Neck and lip folds or wrinkles. — Grasp and pinch the 
folds between thumb and index linger from within to 
outwards. 

Wrinkles around eyes. — Massage with thumb or with 
one finger in the direction of the wrinkles. 

Crows' feet. — Start massage from nose towards 
temples. 

Wrinkles of under eyelid. — Go from cheek bone to cor- 
ner of the eye. 

Wrinkles on forehead. — Massage in the direction of 
the wrinkles, going from the nose towards the temple. 

APPLICATION OF BANDAGES, BEAUTY 
MASKS AND MOLDS. 

Sometimes massage is followed with good results by 
applying bandages and beauty masks. 

Bandages made for this purpose are adhesive and are 
stretched between the borders of the folds in order to 
efface them. They are to be kept on as long as possible, 
one night, one day. 

Beauty masks are cataplasms of astringent and tonic 
material to be placed upon forehead, cheeks, chin, even 
over the whole face in some cases. 

The mold is a form of dry wrapping and compressing, 
by means of cotton tampons and adhesive strips. The 
tampons are applied on those parts where pressure is 
to be exerted to make wrinkles or redness disappear, 



66 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 




Fig. 1. 



REGIONAL MASSAGE. 
FOREHEAD. 
Kneading (indication: acne). 

The operator stands behind the right shoulder of the 
subject (Fig. 1). 

The left hand holds the frontal muscles near the hair 
line. The four fingers of the right hand rest upon the 
forehead, while the thumb exerts pressure with zigzag 
movements from right to left. 



REGIONAL MASSAGE 



67 



™ 










\ 


■ 







Fig. 2. 



FOREHEAD. 
Smoothing (indication: wrinkles). 

The operator stands behind the subject (Fig. 2). 
The thumbs placed above the ears, holding the muscles 
i stretched tight like a piece of leather. At the same time 
the middle and index fingers of both hands make a glid- 
ing movement, pressing and smoothing the wrinkles, 
, going from the middle of the forehead towards the 
temples. 



68 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 




Fig. 3. 



NOSE. 

Kneading (indication: acne). 

The operator stands behind the right shoulder of the 
subject who turns his head slightly to the right (Fig. 3). 

The left hand supports the head. The thumb and first 
finger of the right hand bent at right angles execute light 
zigzag movements and vibrations going from the point 
to the root of the nose. 



REGIONAL MASSAGE 



69 




Fig. 4. 



EYES AND EYELIDS. 
Kneading and pulling back (indication: crows' feet). 

Standing behind the right shoulder of the subject, the 
j fingers of the left hand hold and stretch the muscles like 
a piece of leather (Fig. 4). 

The four fingers of the right hand rest on the chin 
and the jaw, while the right thumb first makes zigzag 
movements around the orbit of the eye and upon the eye- 
lids, then vigorously stretches each wrinkle, going from 
the temple towards the external angle of the eye. 



70 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 







||2t 




v \ ■ 




upt^jt " 








M 


lilt 


flllifc: 








lt/fl# 








^ 








BES^fe* 



Fig. 5. 



UPPER EYELIDS. 
Pulling up the upper eyelids (indication : wrinkles and 
relaxation). 

The operator stands behind the subject ; the hands, 
half closed, support themselves with the knuckles of the 
three last fingers resting upon the temples and the 
thumbs placed upon the forehead (Fig. 5). 

The index fingers make a firm pressure upon the arch 
of the brow, going from the root of the nose to the 
external angle of the eye. 



REGIONAL MASSAGE 



71 




LOWER EYELIDS. 

Massage of the internal angle of the eyes and lower 
eyelids (indication : wrinkles and swelling under the 
eyes). 

The operator again stands behind right shoulder of 
( the subject. The left hand supporting the patient's head 
(Fig. 6). 

The right hand is half closed. The back of three 
fingers and the inner side of the thumb support them- 
* selves upon the jaw. The index fingers move from the 
back of nose as far as the malar bone. 



72 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



1 




1 K 


•-! 


% 


■ el* 






, J ' 








m 




b^ j^^tm^'^ 




M 








;!!§■ 






Bk 



Fig. 7. 



LOWER EYELIDS. 

Vibratory treatment of the inferior eyelids: (wrinkles 
and swelling). 

Again the position of the operator is at the back 
against the right shoulder of the patient (Fig. 7). 

The palm of the hand rests upon the chin, while the 
four fingers of the right hand play upon and cause vibra- 
tions of the lower eyelid and malar region (cheek). 



REGIONAL MASSAGE 



73 




Fig. 8. 



THE LEFT CHEEK. 

Kneading of left cheek: (acne, laxity and enlarge- 
ment). 

Position same as before (Fig. 8). 

The right hand half closed, the last three fingers rest- 
ing upon the jaw. Thumb and index finger knead the 
muscles in the direction from angle of nose to jaw and 
reverse. 

The same is done on the right cheek (Fig. 9). 



74 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 




Fig. 9. 



RIGHT CHEEK. 

Kneading of right cheek: (acne, flabbiness). 

Standing behind the subject's right shoulder (Fig. 9). 

Both hands, half closed, supported by the palm placed 
on the temple and jaw, act simultaneously, the thumbs 
and the first fingers kneading the cheek from the temple 
down towards the lower jaw. 



REGIONAL MASSAGE 



75 




Fig. 10. 



BOTH CHEEKS. 

Simultaneous massage of both cheeks: (acne or 
wrinkles). 

Operator takes position in front of right shoulder 
(Fig. 10). 

The four fingers of both hands supported on the neck 
near ear and angle of lower jaw. The two thumbs with 
strong pressure smooth the wrinkles, going from center 
of face towards the ear. 



76 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 




Fig. 11. 

ENTIRE FACE. 

Massage of entire face: (acne, atrophy of cheeks). 

The operator stands behind subject (Fig. 11). 

The two thumbs are placed at the back of the head, 
the fingers of both hands, resting firmly upon the cheeks, 
between cheek bones and jaw, making hard pressure and 
vigorous movements. After seven or eight vibrations it 
is advisable to move them to another point. 






REGIONAL MASSAGE 



77 




Fig. 12. 



LOWER PART OF FACE. 

Massage of lower part of face: (acne, enlargement). 

Standing behind subject (Fig. 12) 

Both hands with the fingers close together move from 
chin and angle of the mouth towards the ears, pulling 
hard upon the masseter and temporal muscles. 



78 



HYGIENE OF THE FACE 




Fig. 13. 

UPPER LIP. 

Massage of the circular muscles of the lips: (acne and 
folds). 

The masseur stands in front of patient (Fig. 13). 

The four fingers of each hand resting upon the jaws, 
the thumbs lightly stroke the lips from center to cor- 
ners of the mouth. 






REGIONAL MASSAGE 



79 




Fig. 14. 



CHIN. 

Massage of chin: (double chin and folds). 

Placed as illustrated in figure 14. 

The hands in same position as in figure 13 ; the two 
thumbs stroke the chin and the groove between it and 
lower lip, going up from the middle to the sides. 



80 HYGIENE OF THE FACE 



ELECTRO-THERAPEUTIC TREATMENT, 

The methods comprise a series of proceedings : Elec- 
tric massage, electrolysis, cataphoresis, ionisation, action 
of light, X-rays, radium, Finsen light, etc. 

Though all of these may be of use in cosmetical treat- 
ment, they are dangerous and should be left entirely to 
the physician, who is the only one to choose the right 
form of electricity and the amount and method in each 
instance. 



MEDICO-CHIRURGICAL COSMETICS 

Only the physician can advise and undertake such 
treatments. 



PART II. 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



COSMETIC GUIDE 

The number of prescriptions for cosmetics purposes 
is very great. Those that are given here are grouped 
in alphabetical order, according to the purpose for which 
they are to be used. 

It has, in most cases, been impossible to give their 
exact origin, this being difficult to discover, as the 
authors have copied from one another. Whenever it 
has been possible to find the author of any of the for- 
mulas, his name has been mentioned. 

Also the method of compounding most of the cos- 
metic mixtures has not been indicated. It requires spe- 
cial training to make good cosmetics, and often a talent 
for it, but every pharmacist can prepare good ones if 
he uses absolutely pure products. 

Almost all cosmetics in common use are of commercial 
origin, that is, they are manufactured wholesale for the 
trade. 

The physician should not tolerate nor advise their use 
until their composition is known to him. 

In order to consult this formulary, it is only neces- 
sary to look in the alphabetical order, for the name 
expressing the trouble from which the person is suffer- 
ing, whether it be a functional one or an affection of 
the face for which a remedy is sought. Often the word 
looked for refers to others giving more information on 



84 COSMETIC GUIDE 

the subject. For example, after the word dryness of the 
skin, one must refer to dry seborrhoea, scales; 
these may refer again to acne, flushed face, complexion, 
care or toilet of the face, etc. 

Thus all directions for the care of the face are found. 

ACNE. — The treatment of acne belongs more to the 
realm of medicine than to that of cosmetics. But it may 
prove of use to mention a few things in reference to it. 
(Look also for congestion, redness, creams, lotions, 
seborrhoea, comedons, blackheads, erysipelas, etc.) 

Acne is an affection resulting either from disease or 
from functional disorders of the glands of the face due 
to a deficient elimination or to an abnormal secretion. 
These conditions again may depend upon a disturbance 
of the deeper glandular organs of the body (liver, kid- 
ney lungs) ; troubles of the digestion (dyspepsia, intesti- 
nal indigestion, constipation) ; alimentary disturbances 
of a lymphatic or arthritic order; irregularity in the 
development and function of ovary, uterus and genital 
organs ; finally it may be due also to the nervous system. 
To these must also be added the toxic acne, iodine acne, 
and acne due to certain occupations. 

Acne shows itself in many forms, varying with the 
subject, the age, the condition of the skin and the excit- 
ing cause. 

Those suffering from lymphatic diseases, scrofula, 
tuberculosis, in latent, active or hereditary form, present 
many kinds of acne, which are purely conditions to be 
treated by the physician. These forms of acne are known 
as acnitis, folliclis, tuberculosis. 

The age causes acne to assume particular forms. 

Children rarely present pure forms of acne, but often 
have seborrhoea or eruptions, itching or prurigos, little 






ACNE 85 

isolated pustules called folliculitis ; or diffused, called 
impetigo, forerunners of acne in the future. 

Young people suffer from acne with suppuration called 
pustular or polymorphous .acne, from its many forms 
of pustulations. (Fig. 15.) 

According to the state of the skin these acnes are 
accompanied by various symptoms. 




Fig. 15. — Pustular acne. 

Upon greasy skins : oily secretions (oily seborrhoea) 
of great amount ; a shiny skin ; many blackheads ; come- 
dons; little pointed cicatrices. (Fig. 16.) 

On dry skins : scales (dry seborrhoea) ; congestions 
and dilatations of the blood vessels (erythema) ; and pre- 
mature wrinkles. 

Elderly people at the time of change of life, especially 
nervous persons, are affected with a kind of deep acne, 
called granular. This variety of acne is very rebel- 



86 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



lious to treatment, is accompanied by erythema (red 
face), dry skin and little white spots (epidermic cysts) 
caused by retention of matter from sweat and sebaceous 
glands. 




Fig. 16. — Case of acne. 
Comedons and black heads seen on forehead, cheeks and 
chin; the skin is scaling, granular, full of small holes and 
comedons. 

All these causes make acne one of the most common 
affections of the face and one of the most difficult to 
treat. 

There is no general treatment for acne, but only a 
series of methods of treatment which may be grouped 
thus: 



ACNE 87 

Preventive treatment. — This is entirely medical; it 
considers the general condition, constitution, heredity, 
mode of living, illness, local condition, dry or oily skin. 
The use of well chosen cosmetic remedies may play an 
important part in its prevention. Therefore, it might 
be advisable to look up the terms used at the beginning 
of this article (ACNE). 

Curative treatment. — This also is medical. The meth- 
ods of treatment may be divided thus : 

Pharmacological methods'. Comprising internal and 
external medical treatment. The use of sprays, masks, 
desquamatory treatment. 

Medico-chirurgical methods: Cauterizing and scari- 
fications. 

PJiysio-tlierapeutic methods: Massage; electricity in 
all its various forms : continuous currents, ionization, 
electrolysis ; light or phototherapy ; X-rays ; radium. 

Here follows a specimen treatment of a case of acne. 

The patient was suffering from the variety called 
lymphatic acne, was tuberculous by heredity, also ar- 
thritic, had pustular acne, blackheads, oily secretion, con- 
gestion and erythematous spots on face, renal and hepatic 
disorders. 

1. Directed to take for six days, every morning, on 
an empty stomach, one of the pills indicated here below ; 
a second pill half an hour later, and breakfast half an 
hour after taking the second pill. 



Jalap 

Scammony 

Scilla 

Calomel 

Amygdalin soap Q. S. to make 12 pills. 



aa 0.02 gramme 



88 COSMETIC GUIDE 






While taking these pills no salty food is to be taken, 
the mouth and particularly the teeth must be kept clean. 
(Women should wait five days after menstruation before 
taking these pills.) 

2. On the seventh day, 30 to 40 grammes of castor- 
oil. 

3. Two days after taking the castor-oil, begin with 
this preparation: 

Cod liver oil 200 grammes 

Creosote 1 — 

Take one dessert to one tablespoonful twice a day be- 
fore meals. 

If oil or creosote is intolerable to the stomach, medi- 
cines of similar action must be substituted. 

4. Use the following spraying lotion by means of a 
steam vaporizer, mornings and evenings : 

Infusion of chamomile flowers, 10 grammes to 1 quart 
water. Put 60 grammes of this infusion in the vaporizer 
and add 5 grammes bicarbonate of soda, or sulpho- 
borate of soda, if the acne is not pustular. 

If the acne is pustular, use one or two dessert spoon- 
fuls of this preparation : 

Sulphate of copper 10 grammes 

Sulphate of zinc 35 — 

Camphor 5 — 

Saffron powder 2 — 

Sterilized water 1000 — 

5. After the evening spraying, this cream is to be 
applied : 



ACNE 89 

Glycerate of starch 100 grammes 

Ichthyol 10 — 

Resorcin 1 — 

Sulphur 4 — 

Camphor 2 — 

Tincture of quillaya 2 — 

Carbonate of magnesia 20 — 

Rose water 0. S. to make a thick cream. 
Spread upon face and cover with sterilized gauze. 

6. Next morning remove the cream, rubbing lightly 
with a piece of fine linen or absorbent cotton, then apply 
Cheeseborough's white vaseline (if there are black 
heads). 

7. Use the spray again; or still better, if the skin 
is greasy, rub with an alkaline mixture made of 1 tea- 
spoonful bicarbonate of soda to a cup of hot boiled 
water. 

Or five to ten drops of ammonia in the same quantity 
of water. 

If the skin is very oily and covered with pustules, 
blackheads and comedons, the following solution should 
!be used : 

/3 naphthol 1 gramme 

Green soap 20 — 

Spirits of lavender 10 — 

Alcohol 907c 70 — 

Perfume — a few drops. 

If the skin peels, or when there is dryness, scales, use 
this solution : 

(Tincture of green soap 40 grammes 
Oil of sweet almonds 20 — 

Camphorated alcohol 40 — 



90 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Finally, when there is congestion of the face, irrita- 
bility and flaccidity, after removing the cream apply: 

Rose water 160' grammes 

Eau de Cologne 100 — 

Milk of almonds .'.... 40 — 

Salicylic acid 2 — 

Tinct. Benzoin 1 — 

8. To finish : 

If the skin is dry, put on a thin coating of neutral 
vaseline or some softening cream. 

If oily, powder with rice powder or any other powder 
suitable to the complexion. 

We have given here a specimen of treatment for a 
complicated case of acne, which treatment proved suc- 
cessful ; but it must be remembered that the treatment 
for acne is essentially medical, and must vary with each 
patient, with the cause, the seat and form of the acne. 

Here follows a series of prescriptions, which have been 
thoroughly tested : 

LOTIONS FOR ACNE. 

Suppurating acne with oily skin. 

Salol 5 grammes 

Sulphur ether 20 — 

Alcohol 90% 100 — 

Pustular acne. 

Sulphur precipitate 15 grammes 

Talcum . 120 — 

Spirits of camphor 40 — 

Tincture of quillaya 20 drops 

Rose water Q. S. to make 250 cubic centimeters. 
To be used lukewarm after thorough shaking evenings and left 
on all night. 



ACNE 91 

Acne with congestion of the face. 

Lead water 50 grammes 

Camphorated alcohol 25 — 

Tincture of Quillaya 2 — 

Boiled water 300 — 

Acne with papules, erythema, dry skin 
and desquamation. 

Salicylic acid 1 gramme 

Soda borate 4 — 

Alcohol 907c 5 — 

Rose water '..'.' 200 — 

Most of these lotions are used pure ; but if the skin is 
irritable, they must be mixed with boiled water in the 
proper proportion of one-third, one-half, or more. 

CREAMS, SALVES AND PASTES FOR ACNE: 

Soothing cream for irritable face. 

Oil of vaseline 40 grammes 

Lanolin 40 — 

Ol.-lini. and aqua calcis aa 40 — 

Perfume ad libitum. 

Salve for pustular acne. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis....... aa 15 grammes 

Oil of vaseline 20 — 

Lanolin 10 

Ichthyol 1 — 

Oxide of zinc 20 — 

Sulphur precipitate 2 — 

Paste for allaying irritation after desquamatory 
treatment of acne. 

Oxide of zinc - 

Rice powder • aa 25 grammes 

Lanolin 

Vaseline 



92 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Acne with suppuration and desquamation. 

Salicylic acid 2 grammes 

Resorcin 1 — 

Ichthyol 4 — 

Green soap 10 — 

Diachylon ointment 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Suppurating acne (pustular) with itching 
and desquamation. 

Camphor 0.5 gramme 

Turpeth mineral 0.5 — 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Tincture of benzoin 1 — 

Vaseline 5 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 7.S — 

Salve for pustular acne. 

Sulphur precipitate 2 grammes 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Vaseline .,,... 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Acne on oily skin with blackheads and pustules. 

Vaseline 25 grammes 

Lanolin 25 — 

Soft soap (potas) 10 • — 

Sulphur precipitate 4 — 

Ichthyol 1 — 

Acne on dry skin, erythema and scales. 

Sulphur precipitate 10 grammes 

Talcum 20 — 

Glycerine 40 — 

. Tincture benzoin 2 — 

Tincture quillaya 5 — 

Rose water 260 — - 



BANDAGES 93 

Papular acne with congestion of the face. 

Green soap 20 grammes 

Ichthyol 2 — 

Talcum 25 — 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Acetate of lead 2 — 

This is an irritant preparation to be applied in the evening for 
two or three hours only. 

ANHIDROSIS, Absence of Transpiration.— See 
Dryness of the skin. 
ANEMIA. — See Paleness of Face or Pallor. 




Fig, 17. — Application of bands for the mold. 

1 __When the massage is over, apply a linen band under 
which are placed tampons of cotton to prevent wrinkles 
from forming again. 

BANDAGES.— Bands and bandages are used after 
facial massage, to efface wrinkles and folds, in cases of 
puffiness, abnormal swellings or hollows of the face. 



94 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



These bandages hold in place tampons of cotton, which 
compress the parts to be reduced, while on the portions 
to be rounded and filled out no padding is used. 

These bandages and the cotton constitute what is 
called a mould, and to apply them properly is an art. 
(See figs. 17, 18, 19.) 

The illustrations under masks show the manner of 
application in each case. 




Fig. 18. — Application of bands for the mold. 

2. — The mold is formed by the band and the wadding 
tampons, which produce the modeling to "be given to the 
face. These wadding tampons are secured in their proper 
place with the bands. The tampons cause a pressure upon 
the parts that should be reduced, but no tampons are 
placed where the mold should show an empty space. 



BARBER'S ITCH.— See Beard, Itching. 

BEARD. — Under the head of brilliantines, dyeing, the 

prescriptions necessary for keeping the beard in good 
condition will be found. 



BEARD 95 

The care of the beard is identical with that of the 
hair.* 

The waters, lotions and applications for the beard, are 
the same as those for oily and dry skins and scales. 

It must not be forgotten that after shaving, a weak 
antiseptic lotion, containing alcohol, should be used to 




Fig. 19. — Application of bands for the mold. 

3. — The mold is finished and should be kept on for one 
hour. The whole mold now resembles a dressing of the 
face; only the eyes, the nose and the mouth are visible. 

avoid infection. The razor may carry syphilis, boils, 
and that tedious affection sycosis, to the skin. These 
lotions, which are useful after shaving, contain vinegars, 
lotions and toilet waters according to the quality of the 



*See Hair and its Preservation, by Richard W. Miiller, M. D. ; 
also Loss of Hair and its Treatment by the new Quartz-Light 
Rays, by the same author. 



96 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



skin. To prevent sycosis so often caused by shaving, a 
piece of alum should be rubbed over the surface in order 
to toughen the skin. For very sensitive, oily or moist 
skins, powdering afterwards with rice or talcum powder 




Fig. 20. — Barber's itch and folliculitis. 
Result of a non-sterilized razor or shaving brush, of an 
irritant soap, causing a suppuration of the hair follicles. 

is indicated. Alcohol must not be used too often, as it 
dries the skin and causes the hair to become brittle and 
break. Nor should brilliantine be used too frequently 
as it dulls and soils the mustache. 



BLACKHEADS 97 

BITES.— See Stings. 

BLACKHEADS, black-points, comedons. (See also 
Acne). — These are generally found on oily faces, and 
are the result of the accumulation of sebum (fatty mat- 
ter) in the orifices of the sebaceous glands, where, being 
exposed to the atmospheric dust, it soon becomes black. 

Nose, wings of nose, forehead and chin, and the cor- 
ners of the lips are the favorite seat of these invaders. 
They are sometimes so numerous as to give the face a 
dirty brown appearance. At other times we find them 
penetrating so far into the skin, that on being removed 
they are found to have an inch in length, and pus fol- 
lows their exit on pressure. This proves the invasion of 
the sebaceous ducts by microbes. These blackheads 
always accompany oily seborrhoea and acne and is a 
trouble frequently found with young persons of a lymph- 
atic and arthritic temperament. They are oftener seen 
on brunettes than on blondes. 

For their removal numerous instruments have been 
invented, which in the hands of a clever person serve 
the purpose very well. Too much pressure, however, is 
to be avoided. It has been found that violence used upon 
the blackheads which are swollen and bulby, will spread 
the microbic invasion below the surface, causing 
abscesses, which must be opened with the knife and 
leave scars and disfigurements. 

Alkaline preparations, soaps, sulphurated water, alco- 
holic solutions, ethers and astringents, are used against 
blackheads. 

Mechanical treatment. — Massage, extirpation by pres- 
sure or by the help of a watch key, or of a small instru- 
ment made for this purpose, the centre of which is placed 



98 COSMETIC GUIDE 

over the blackhead and pressed. This pressure is some- 
times very painful. 

Medico-surgical treatment. — Scarifications, removing 
with the scarificator, even with the curette (scraper). 
Each operation should be preceded by washing and 
removal of the grease in the region (water and soap, 
alcohol, ether) and followed by touching with an anti- 
septic (camphorated naphthol), or by cauterizing (nitrate 
of silver 1-20, tincture of iodine, chlorate of zinc 1-20). 

Medical treatment (See Acne and Seborrhoea). — Bath- 
ing with hot water with the addition of bi-carbonate of 
soda, biborate, sulphur borate (combination of sulphur 
and borate of soda) in the proportions of 10, 20 to 30 
grammes to one quart water. 

Sprays of the same solutions and sulphur waters; 
various sulphurs in powders. 

Lotions and friction with: 

Distilled water 1000 grammes 

Alcohol 90% 100 — 

Boracic acid 20 — 

Acid of thyme 30 — 

Powdered alum 10 — 

Ether 30 grammes 

Peroxide of hydrogen at 12% 50 — 

Alcohol 90% 50 — 

Bicarbonate of soda 10 — 

Water 250 grammes 

Borate of soda 10 — 

Alcohol 100 — 

Lotions. 

Hyposulphite or bi-sulphite of soda.. 1 to 5 grammes 

Rose water , 100 — 

(Cavalhies). 



BLACKHEADS 99 

Sulphuric ether 20 (grammes 

Essence of lemon 30 — 

Distilled rose water 80 — 

Distilled lettuce water 20 — 

To be rubbed in with cotton dipped in it. 

Subcarbonate of soda 2 grammes 

Rose water 250 — 

Borate of soda 4 grammes 

Rose water 40 — 

Orange flower water 40 — 

Alcohol 90% 80 grammes 

Spirits of lavender 10 — 

Green soap 40 — 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Use pure or mixed with water. 

Borate of soda 5 grammes 

Alcohol 90% ' 10 " — 

Neutral glycerine 30 — 

Rose water 100 — 

(Vaucaire). 

Ointments. 

/3 naphthol 0.40 grammes 

Precipitate sulphur 1 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Green soap 5 — 

Rub on twice a week. 

Lanolin 20 grammes 

Ichthyol 2 — . 

Resorcin 5 grammes 

Lard 100 -, 



100 COSMETIC GUIDE 

BREATH, offensive. — Changes in the breath have re 
ceived little consideration from the profession. An offen- 
sive breath is a constant source of misery to all who, by 
force of circumstances, are compelled to associate with 
the unfortunate patient. It is a functional disorder liable 
to occur at all periods of life, and men are more subject 
to it than women. Few of the persons afflicted with an 
unpleasant breath are aware of the fact, nor do they 
realize the feeling of repugnance which it calls forth 
among those with whom they come in contact. And yet 
a false delicacy prevents us from making them aware 
of their trouble or suggesting to them some source of 
relief. 

It is mainly to a disarrangement of the functions of 

digestion and assimilation that we must look for the 
origin of "bad breath. " In the stomach, the fibrine and 
albumin of meat, the gluten of bread and the casein of 
cheese are mixed with the gastric juice and changed 
into albuminose. In this state they are absorbed by the 
blood-vessels and carried by the blood, together with 
other portions of digested food, to the different tissues 
which they nourish and keep alive. 

With this process of supply there is also one of waste. 
Death of tissue proceeds with a rapidity equal to the 
amount of repair. The products of decay are carried off 
in different forms by the kidneys, by. the lungs and the 
bowels, and from the bowels in the shape of gases, some 
of which are manufactured in the intestinal canal by the 
decomposition of undigested food. The products of 
decay eliminated by the lungs are carbonic acid and 
water, ill which is a trace of animal matter. In a healthy 
state, when every organ is working naturally, there is 
no unpleasant odor from the expired air; but, as soon 






BREATH 101 

as the machinery gets out of order, as extraneous ma- 
terials are added, the breath is tainted. 

The various diseased conditions preventing the elimin- 
ation from the intestinal glands of the products of de- 
structive metamorphoses are mental emotions, constipa- 
tion, indigestion, congenital deficiency in the eliminating 
glandular system, general debility and low forms of 
fevers. Local causes are : decayed teeth, caries of the 
nasal or maxillary bones, ulceration of the lining mem- 
brane of the nose, mouth, pharynx, larynx, trachea or 
bronchial tubes or "putrid bronchitis. " 

The influence of mental emotion on the animal econ- 
omy has never received the consideration which its im- 
portance demands, but it is one of the causes of "bad 
breath," which often develops suddenly and is less amen- 
able to treatment than any other variety, because it 
often depends on the will of the patient whether the 
cause shall be removed or not. As there is no local 
cause which can be removed, the treatment must be di- 
rected to the general system. All sources of mental 
emotion should be removed. Daily cold sponge baths 
are useful in giving tone to the nervous system, plenty 
of exercise also in the open is helpful. The amount of 
animal food eaten at meals should be decreased and more 
vegetable food substituted. The following preparation 
will be found of service when mental excitement occurs 
at stated intervals : 

Tinct. lavender comp 60 grammes 

Tinct. valerian 15 — 

Camph. mixture 12 — 

Aquae carvi 30 — 

Dose : 15 drops on sugar every hour till relieved. 



102 COSMETIC GUIDE 






Constipation is more frequently a cause of bad breath 
than mental emotion. Persons of indolent habits who 
lounge indoors and rarely exercise in the open air are 
very subject to it. A watery condition of the blooc 
(anemia) may produce constipation by lessening the 
normal amount of the secretions, or deteriorating the 
elements entering into their composition. 

Almost all forms of indigestion are accompanied by 
constipation. The skin often is darker than natural, or 
has a yellowish hue, or the odor of its secretion is per- 
ceptibly changed. The tongue is coated, often the lips 
are parched and dry. The breath is fetid and when 
the patient notices it, he says "it is feverish. " This fetor 
can always be removed, but the patient must be made to 
understand that medicine alone will not produce a per- 
manent improvement. An entire change of habit is 
necessary. Vigorous exercise out of doors should be 
constantly insisted upon. If this is not practicable, some 
other exercise must be substituted, such as dumb bells, 
sparring, etc. Fruit, peaches, pears, oranges, etc., should 
be eaten before breakfast. Fruit eaten in this way is a 
valuable adjuvant in keeping up proper action of the 
bowels. No special diet can be laid down ; what suits 
one person will not always agree with another. In 
most cases gentle cathartics will be found necessary. 
Active purgatives are rarely needed. 

The following tonic and laxative preparation is ex- 
ceedingly useful : 

Pulv. aloes socot 1 gramme 

Extr. nucis vomicae 0.15 — 

Pulv. ferri sulph 1.50 — 

As in previous cases the mouth and teeth should be 
cleansed thoroughly with a solution of myrrh and water 






BREATH 103 

(1 teaspoonful myrrh to 1 wine glass of water), or with 
:arbolic acid solution (4 grains to 2 ounces water). 

Tincture of cinnamon slightly diluted may be applied 
to the inside of the mouth by means of a brush. Pieces 
oi charcoal, the size of a hazel nut, may be eaten several 
times during the day, but these things only diminish the 
Dffensive odor. Where the constipation and bad odor 
are kept up by a lax condition of the system, a course of 
tonic medicines alone will often be sufficient to produce 
a cure. 

The false modes of life of the present time, the hurry, 
excitement, etc., are the source of innumerable ills. Sed- 
entary habits, overwork, bolting the food down, sap the 
vitality until nature gives way under the strain. 

The symptoms which characterize indigestion are in 
some respects similar to those connected with chronic 
:onstipation, but indigestion frequently occurs inde- 
pendently of constipation. In addition to the symptoms 
before enumerated, there is pain, weight in the stomach 
ifter eating and eructations of gas and acid liquids into 
:he mouth. The gas rarely has a bad odor. The breath 
becomes fetid, however, after the beginning of the dis- 
order. Fatigue and nervous excitement invariably in- 
:rease it. The same hygienic measures recommended 
ior the cure of constipation and its accompanying bad 
)reath are necessary in every form of indigestion : fresh 
air, nourishing food, change cf habitation, rest from 
k vork and worry do more for promoting a cure than 
nedicine. 

Congenital bad breath. — A few unfortunate poeple are 
ifflicted with a bad breath from their childhood. The 
xeatment of congenital bad breath is more palliative 
;han curative. We cannot remove it completely, we can 



104 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



only hide or modify it. The patient should take a tepid 
bath daily, afterwards sponging the surface of the body 
with cold water. When the skin has been rubbed dry, a 
diluted solution of Florida water should be applied with 
a wet towel. A few drops of spirits of camphor act in 
some cases as a perfect deodorizer. The mouth and 
teeth ought to be keep scrupulously clean. Charcoal is 
a useful disinfectant. Sweet-flag, partridge berry leaves, 
cinnamon bark may be used constantly. 

Decaying bone, when exposed to the air, exhales a 
fetor. The same destructive process in the teeth oc- 
casions less odor than decay in other bony tissues. When 
a fetid breath is associated with decayed teeth, it is 
usually assumed that the teeth alone are responsible; 
this is, however, not the case. The decaying structures 
of the teeth are but accessories in producing the fetor. 
When eating, particles of food become lodged in the 
minute cavities of the teeth. The heat and moisture of 
the mouth excite decomposition of the mass. In a day 
or two it is thoroughly rotten and emits the foul smell 
characteristic of putridity under other circumstances. 
Every day this decaying massjreceives fresh layers, until 
it is very difficult to distinguish the animal matter from 
the bone. As a consequence of this putrefactive change, 
the breath becomes impregnated with the foul smell. 
The proper person to consult in this case is the dentist. 
The teeth should be brushed after every meal. 

Bad breath arising from putrid inflammation of the 
mouth is a peculiar and comparatively dangerous affec- 
tion. The odor is from the beginning extremely offen- 
sive. If the affection is not controlled by proper reme- 
dies the cheeks become affected by the ulceration, and 
the disease may involve the life of the patient. 



BREATH 105 

The treatment is simple and usually successful. A 
solution of chlorate of potash, used repeatedly, in the 
course of a day or two stops the ulceration and removes 
the fetor. For adults the following solution is the best : 

Chlorate of potash 4 grammes 

Syrup of ginger 15 — 

Distilled water 90 — 

Scorbutic ulceration of the mouth is preceded by loss 
of flesh and strength. The breath is fetid. The disease 
requires local and constitutional treatment. Local treat- 
ment consists in the application of astringent washes to 
the mouth, as alum, tannic or gallic acid. One teaspoon- 
ful of powdered alum added to four ounces of water, may 
b( used five or six times a day as a wash. Constitutional 
treatment consists in the administration of lime or lemon 
juice and vegetable acids. 

Syphilitic inflammation and ulceration of the mouth 

ind fauces are always accompanied by bad breath. The 
nrst thing to be done is to cauterize the sores. Then 
apply a strong solution of carbolic acid and glycerine. 

Carbolic acid 2 grammes 

Glycerine 30 — 

Distilled water 60 — 

Clergyman's sore throat, a chronic inflammatory 
affection of the mucous membrane lining the pharynx, 
is also a cause of fetor. 

Chronic enlargement of the tonsils is another source 
I f offensive breath. Diphtheria and diphtheritic sore 
throat have an offensive breath as one of their most 



106 COSMETIC GUIDE 

prominent symptoms. Catarrhal affections, characterized 
by a profuse muco-purulent discharge, have as a rule 
an offensive odor. 

BRILLIANTINES.— Brilliantines play a part anal- 
ogous with that of cosmetic sticks. They are composed 
of one or two different fluids. Brilliantines of one fluid 
are known as antique oils of yellow color, and oil of 
quinine of red color. For their base they have oil of 
vaseline. 

The solid brilliantines are really ointments made of 
beef marrow, bear's fat, or still better, of vaseline. 

Brilliantines are divided into non-homogeneous and 
homogeneous, according to whether they are turbid or 
clear. The turbid brilliantines must be shaken before 
using. 

In cases of dryness, brilliantines rich in fatty sub- 
stances, i. e., the non-homogeneous should be used. For 
oily beards and mustaches, the homogeneous brillian- 
tines with a base of alcohol are to be preferred. 

Homogeneous Brilliantines. 

Alcohol 90% 50 grammes 

Glycerine 50 — 

Essence to perfume Q. S. 

Castor oil 130 grammes 

Alcohol 90% 30 — 

Essence of roses 1 — 

Non-homogeneous Brilliantines. 

Extract of heliotrope 50 grammes 

Vanilline crystal 1 — 

Alcohol 80% 300 — 

Oil of vaseline Q. S. to make 1000 grammes. 



BURNS 107 

Castor oil 80 grammes 

Tincture of quinquina 50 — 

Extract of jasmine 50 — 

Essence of bergamot 5 — 

Extract of violet. Q. S. to perfume. 
Alcohol 90%, Q. S. for 1 quart. 

BURNS. — Burns on the face are due either to : 

1. An open fire or stove, a kerosene or alcohol lamp. 

2. To boiling liquids, generally water, sometimes oil. 

3. To acids, very often vitriol, sometimes carbolic. 

In cases of severe burns the physician should immedi- 
ately be called. In the meantime do not pull away the 
skin or wash ; it must be borne in mind that water by 
diluting the acid, the cause of the burn, increases its 
action and renders the burn deeper and more serious. 
Do not put on any liniment otherwise used for burns. 
The best that can be done in the meantime is to spread 
some sweet oil over the burned part. 

Remember that burns on the face leave cicatrices and 
often cause serious deformities. 

Liniments for burns. 

After disinfecting the skin with lotions and sprays of 
marshmallow water (made up of the marshmallow roots 
and flowers, aa 20 grammes ; resorcin, 2 grammes ; water, 
1000 grammes), use Carron oil or the following 
liniment : 

No. 1. — Simple Liniment. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 20 grammes 

Lanolin 20 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Oil of vaseline 10 — 

Ichthyol 5 drops 



108 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Essence of verbena 30 — 

Essence of lavender 30 — 

Orthoform 2 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and talcum Q. S. to make 
of a creamy consistency. 

Spread on burn, cover with lint and leave on 24 hours ; 
then renew. 

No. 2. — Antiseptic Liniment. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 30 grammes 

Vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 20 — 

Ichthyol 5 — 

Essence of lavender 1 — 

Carbolic acid 0.5 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and Carbonate of lime Q. S. 
to make a semi-fluid cream. 

Liniment No. 1 may be replaced by No. 2 as soon as 
suppuration appears, that is, when the scabs detach them- 
selves (from the 6th to the 10th day). The marshmallow 
lotion must then be replaced by washes and sprays of 
a solution of 1 to 5 grammes of resorcin to 1,000 of 
water. 

When the scabs have dropped off it is important to 
stimulate and regulate the cicatrices, for which purpose 
the following cream may be used : 

No. 3. — Stimulating Cream. 

Oil of vaseline 20 grammes 

Essence of cinnamon 5 drops 

Essence of Eucalyptus 20 — 

Ointment of Styrax 1 gramme 

Carbonate of calcium 10 — 

Powder of gum arabic Q. S. to make a cream. 



CHLOASMA 109 

This may later be alternated with cream No. 4. 

No. 4. — Softening Cream. 

Oil of vaseline 10 grammes 

Sweet almond oil 10 — 

Essence of lavender 1 — 

Essence of rosemary 1 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and Talcum, Q. S. to make 
a cream. 

CHILBLAINS.— See Frostbites. 

CHIN. — The chm is often the seat of acne, of black- 
heads, and, with men the seat of redness, small excoria- 
tions and scales, sores due to shaving. The treatment is 
the same as for the rest of the face. Double chin which 
is Teally the effect of local fatness should be treated by 
astringent lotions, masks, massage and electricity. 

CHLOASMA (See also Discolorations and Facial 
Blemishes). — Brown spots or blemishes on the faces 
of pregnant women, of persons suffering from liver dis- 
ease, or of the suprarenal capsule, from syphilis and 
lepra. Arsenic and nitrate of silver after continuous use 
may also produce these brown pigmentations, which 
are, however, most frequently found among brunettes. 

The following treatment is useful : 
Wash the discolorations with hot tea. 
In the evening bathe with this lotion : 

Chlorate of potash 2 grammes 

Rose water 250 — 



110 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Lotions. 

Distilled water 250 grammes 

Liquid ammonia 2 — 

Essence of lemon 10 drops 

Corrosive sublimate 1 gramme 

Glycerine 5 drops 

Eau de cologne '. . 10 grammes 

Talcum 10 — 

Alcohol 90% .. 100 

Apply at night by means of a piece of muslin dipped in this, 
mixture and cover with oiled silk. 

Ointments. 

Cold cream 30 grammes 

Essence of anis seed 2 — 

Flores sulfuris 1 — 

CICATRICES (See also Wrinkles, etc.).— Facial scars 
are of diverse sizes, forms and origin. It is necessary 
to distinguish between true cicatrices and the appear- 
ance of the skin where there is oily seborrhoea and 
comedons, which give the appearance of scars. In this 
case we have nothing to do with cicatrices, but with a 
peculiar appearance of the skin which is greasy and 
covered with hundreds of little openings which are 
stopped with little heaps of dust and grease. 

Facial scars may originate from : 

1. Local maladies, acne, folliculitis, furuncles, 
abscesses, tuberculosis, syphilis, cancer; or general dis- 
eases and fever eruptions, as varicella and small pox. 

2. Wounds due to cuts or operations. 

3. Burns. 

These different cicatrices necessitate different treat- 
ment according to their cause and depth. 

The only scars belonging in the realm of cosmetics are 
those due to acne, varicella and varioloid. 



CICATRICES 111 

The first care in these diseases is to avoid scars, and 
the second to make them disappear when they exist. 
As it is much easier to prevent them than to cure them, 
it must be remembered that scars follow suppuration 
and therefore, suppuration must be prevented whenever 
there is a tendency to it, and in order to do this it is 
necessary : 

1. To wash the skin frequently with soap and non- 
irritant antiseptic lotions. 

2. Spray with the steam of water, or with antiseptic 
solutions. 

3. Protect the skin from exposure, to dust and germs 
by the application of creams and dressings. 

4. When suppuration has already set in, open as 
soon as possible every focus of suppuration, taking care 
not to leave a scar. 

5. Destroy and isolate the focus to prevent the spread 
of the infectious material within it. 

With some people the scars become very hard and 
prominent, developing into cheloids or cartilaginous 
swellings. 

When cicatrices have appeared despite all our care and 
foresight, it is sometimes possible to modify them, and 
to render them less apparent through massage, electric 
treatment, X-rays, radium, scarification and surgical 
interference and internal or external medication. 

Internal treatment has very little influence over scar 
formation. To prevent scars in cases of acne, it is 
important to avoid pressing on the acne pustules to 
empty them of pus. The best method is to wash them 
with eau de Cologne or an aromatic alcoholic solution 
of salol or boracic acid, then pierce the head of the 
pustule with a sterilized bistoury or a needle heated to 



112 COSMETIC GUIDE 

a white heat. After this, dry with absorbent cotton, 
saturated with the alcoholic solution. Combined with 
these lotions, boracic acid sprays 20 to 1,000, or resorcin 
solution 1 to 1,000 may be used. 

To prevent scars in chicken pox or small pox, treat 
as follows : 

1. As soon as the eruption appears bathe the face 
three or four times a day with absorbent cotton dipped 
in the following solution : 

Rose water 260 grammes 

Borate of soda 10 — 

Pure glycerine 40 — 

Tincture of benzoin 2 ■ — 

Then apply this salve : 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 10 grammes 

Lanolin 5 — 

Vaseline 5 

Turpeth mineral 1 

2. Should suppuration set in and the fluid in the 
small pox vesicle become turbid, use one of these two 
lotions : 



Salicylic acid 1 gramme 

Boiled water 1000 — 






or 






Bichloride of mercury 0.20 to 0.50 gramme 

Alcohol 907^ 40 — ■ 

Boiled water 960 — 

Afterwards, use the following salve : 



COLD CREAMS 113 

White vaseline 10 grammes 

Lanolin 20 — 

Unguent styrax 4 — 

Tincture benzoin 1 — 

Balsam Peru 20 drops 

Glycerated starch 30 grammes 

The same treatment may be employed in suppurating 
acne. 

COLD CREAMS. — Cosmetic creams are of English 
origin. Their foundation is spermaceti, wax, rosewater 
and sweet almond oil. To certain cold creams, glycerine, 
cocoa-butter and soapy substances are added. 

Cold creams are being gradually replaced by toilet 
creams, which dry and irritate the skin less. As the 
wax in cold creams forms an impermeable coating 
against the air, it follows that after their prolonged use 
there will be an impairment of the glands, atrophy of 
the skin and wrinkles 

Here follow some prescriptions for cold creams to 
which may be added any perfume desired : 

White wax 20 grammes 

Cocoa-butter 20 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 80 — 

Essence of rose 8 drops 

Orange flower water 8 grammes 

Glycerine 8 — 

Perfume ad libitum. 

Softening cold cream. 

Sweet almond oil 125 grammes 

Olive oil 125 — 

White wax 15 — 

Perfume ad libitum. 



114 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Cold cream stock. 

Spermaceti 180 grammes 

White wax 90 — 

Sweet almond oil 645 — 

Distilled rose water 180 — 

Tincture benzoin 45 — 

Borax 10 — 

Sweet almond oil 215 grammes 

Spermaceti 60 — 

White wax 30 — 

Distilled rosewater 60 — 

Volatile oil of roses 10 drops 

Tincture benzoin 5 grammes 

COMEDONS.— See Blackheads, Acne, Erythema, 
Seborrhoea. 

COMPLEXION. — The complexion corresponds gen- 
erally with the color of the face, (pale, colored, red, yel- 
low, earthy). 

We talk of a fresh complexion when the skin is rosy 
and the face animated and without wrinkles ; of a clear 
complexion when free from wrinkles and blemishes. 

The complexion depends upon the general health, the 
constitution, the temperament, the circulation, and the 
proper working of the nervous system. 

The complexion corresponds with the color of the 
hair and eyes. It depends upon the number and quality 
of the blood vessels as much as upon the amount of 
pigment or coloring matter in the skin. 

There are three principal varieties of complexion 
agreeing with the color of the hair. 

White or pale complexion Blondes 

Red or colored complexion Reds 

Dark or yellow complexion. Brunettes 



COMPLEXION 115 

This is not by any means, an absolute division, since 
we often find red haired persons with white complexion, 
and blondes who have a dark and oily skin like brunettes. 

The varieties of complexion are as numerous as the 
different colors of the hair. 

They may be divided thus : 

Blond complexion Ash blond 

— Chestnut 

— — Golden 

— — Yellow red 

Red complexion Burning red 

— — Venetian red 

Brunette's complexion Light chestnut 

— — Deep chestnut 

— — Black chestnut 

Blondes have generally blue eyes, white skin, dry and 
scaling easily. As they age the skin wrinkles and red- 
dens in places. Blondes approaching the yellow have 
often brown or yellow marks, stains or blotches on the 
skin. The skin is frequently inclined to flaccidity. 

Red haired people have eyes of uncertain color. The 
skin is less fragile, either very pale or very highly col- 
ored and rather dry. According to whether they are 
brilliant red or Venetian red they react like blondes or 
brunettes respectively. 

Brunettes have dark or brown eyes, skin rather brown- 
ish or with a slight yellow tinge, oily, moist, readily 
congested and given to acne. Swelling of the face is 
frequently noticed among brunettes. 

The care of the face, varying with the complexion, is 
more fully described under the head; Toilette of the 
face. 



116 COSMETIC GUIDE 

The Gauls who excited the envy and admiration of 
the Romans by their clear complexion, used chalk dis- 
solved in vinegar and the foam of beer for washing their 
faces. 

In the XV Century cream into which various flowers 
were thrown as lilies, water-lilies, roses, etc, and 
boiled in a w r ater bath, was used for softening the skin. 

In the XVI Century, Rhine wine, spinach water and 
the juice of strawberries were used as lotions. 

Mme. de Pompadour applied nightly raw beefsteak. 

Honey mixed with water gives the skin a wonderful 
velvety softness. 

Poppea, the wife of Nero, covered her face every night 
with a poultice made of bread and the milk of an ass. 

To whiten a complexion when there is too much color, 
the various troubles of the body must be treated ; when 
necessary ergotine, hamamelin, quinine, and belladonna 
given internally ; the digestive organs and the functions 
of the ovaries and uterus watched and regulated. Con- 
stipation is, however, the greatest and most persistent 
enemy of the complexion of women. 

Lotions. 

Bran water, boracic acid water, 20 per 1,000. 
Astringent lotions of alum, 5 per 1,000. 
Salt water lotion, 10 to 20 per 1,000. 

To give color to a complexion which is too pale. 

Hot sprays, rubbing with vinegar lotions, massage, 
electricity, douches and baths of static electricity 

Lotions for relaxed and pale skin. 

Alcoholic lotions are preferable ; no fats. Powders. 



COMPLEXION 117 

Washing with ammonia and water, 2 to 10 drops of 
ammonia in a quart of water, afterwards rub with : 

Eau de Cologne 100 grammes 

Pure water 50 — 

Lotions for stretched skin. 

Emollient lotions of bran, marshmallow, creams, 
glycerine. 

Lotion for clearing the complexion and softening 
the skin. 

Essence of roses 5 drops 

Rain water 1 pint 

Juice of fresh lemon 1 tumbler full 

Ointment. 

Juice of lemon and white of Qgg ; take s- iual parts 

of each. 
Heat over fire till it becomes like butter. 
Spread over face after washing with rice water. 

Lotion for greasy skin with pustules 

Orange flower water 30 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 10 drops 

Tincture of myrrh 10 — 

Powdered alum 2 grammes 

Alcohol 90% 5 — 

First cover face over with oil of sweet almonds and spray 

with this mixture. After spraying cold alcoholic lotions are 

to be used. 

Salves for dry skin. 

Oil of sweet almonds ISO grammes 

Spermaceti 35 — 

White wax 15 — 

Rosewater . .• 30 — 

Cologne water 3 — 

Tincture of benzoin 1 — 



118 COSMETIC GUIDE 

or 

Subnitrate of bismuth 3 grammes 

Cold cream 30 — 

Essence of violets 10 drops 

Tincture of benzoin 30 — 

Beauty Mask of Ninon 

Olive oil 10 grammes 

Cherry laurel water 10 — 

Thick almond milk 10 ■ — 

Powdered alum 2 — 

Peruvian balsam 2 drops 

Pour some on sterilized gauze; apply and keep on all night. 

CONGELATIONS.— These are frostbites, or the 
effect of cold upon the face. The treatment consists in 
rubbing with cold and afterwards with hot stimulating 
liquids. Chilblains on nose and ears, erythema and 
burns, are to be treated by rubbing with oily substances 
and astringents. 

Salve. 

Ichthyol 1 gramme 

Resorcin 1 — 

Tannic acid 1 — 

Distilled water 5 — 

Muc. gum arabic 30 — 

Olive oil 30 — 

CONGESTION OF THE FACE. (See also Erythema 
or Red Face). — This may be either partial or total red- 
ness of the face. Most frequently the red flush is seen 
on nose and cheek. It is connected with the digestion; 
it is more accentuated among persons wearing tight fit- 
ting clothing or corsets, with stout people and brunettes. 
Life in the open air confers permanent redness to the 
face ; the same is the case in some diseases of heart and 
lungs. 



CONGESTION OF THE FACE 119 

Congestion of the face, or flush, must not be con- 
founded with erythema, acne or varicosity of the sur- 
face and other diseases of the skin as lupus of the face. 

Treatment of facial congestion must be preceded by 
a medical examination of the general condition and of 
the organs involved in such cases. All causes of con- 
gestion must be removed, all tight clothing forbidden, 
reading or working with head bent after eating, the nutri- 
tion must be watched and the bowels regulated. Light 
purgatives, footbaths of water, with the addition some- 
times of mustard, must be taken now and then. Cold 
feet are a frequent cause of congestion of the face, there- 
fore, it is advisable to wear woolen stockings. 

Hot water for washing, either with or without the 
addition of a little alcohol or vinegar or some astringent 
toilet water should be used. 

Massage, electricity with high frequency currents will 
regulate the circulation and prove useful. 

The face should be bathed with : 

Tar water 120 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 5 — 

Friction should be made with : 

Spirits of lavender 15 grammes 

Spirits of rosemary 100 — 

Alcohol 907c 80 — 

To apply at night : 

Borate of soda 0.50 gramme 

Glycerine . 10 — 

Distilled water 300 — 

Use these ointments : 

Vaseline 60 grammes 

Lanolin 20 — 

Sulphate of zinc 8 — 

Essence of lemon 20 drops 



120 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Tincture of benzoin 1 gramme 

Tincture of witch hazel 1 — 

Tannic acid 1 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

Powder afterwards with : 

Talcum 100 grammes 

Boracic acid ... 50 — 

Essence of verbena 20 drops 

Starch powder 100 grammes 

Powdered orris root 20 — 

Venetian talcum , 15 — 

COSMETICS (See also Paints).— The word cosmetics 
is applied especially to the preparations used in the care 
of the face, either to beautify it, or to hide imperfec- 
tions. 

The history of cosmetics is connected with that of 
advanced civilization. Traces of it, however, have been 
found among peoples still apparently in a savage con- 
dition. Tattooing constituted of itself a sort of decora- 
tion of the skin. 

In ancient Egypt, in Greece, in Rome, at certain epochs 
of the history of France, cosmetics have played an 
important part. 

Physicians, such as Hippocrates, Celsius, Galen, and 
writers like Pliny, Martial, Ovid, Juvenal and Suetonius 
have written upon the subject of cosmetics. 

Romans distinguished cosmetics according to the 
effect to be obtained. They divided them into orna- 
mental or decorative cosmetics as related to hygiene or 
to the beautifying of the body, into which no poisonous 
substances entered ; and into "ars fricatrix," which is 
the science of correcting natural imperfections and 



CRACKED SKIN 121 

repairing the ravages of time, as well as the knowledge 
of the proper use of paints, the majority of which con- 
tained poisonous and dangerous substances. 

To-day, cosmetics have fallen into the hands of per- 
fumers, and there is no longer any difference made in 
the mixing of the ingredients, which are all supposed to 
be hygienic. 

Among them there are emulsions, lotions and toilet 
waters which enjoy a great reputation for the removal 
of blemishes of the face, down, wrinkles, while at the 
same time they are most poisonous and pernicious for 
the skin. 

Some of the ancient as well as the modern prepara- 
tions, contain nitrate of silver, sulphate of copper, acet- 
ate of lead and bichloride of mercury. 

It is very much to be desired that the laws, which 
regulate the sale of pharmaceutical preparations and 
poisonous substances, should also be applied to cos- 
metics, and that perfumers should be obliged to mention 
all the poisonous and irritating substances contained in 
their products. 

This is the rule in the drug trade, and should be the 
same in perfumery and cosmetics. 

CRACKED SKIN (See also Chapped Skin, Frost- 
bites, Lipeczema). — Cracked skin is caused by the influ- 
ence of heat, cold, variations of temperature, dryness and 
irritants; the lips are most often affected and this com- 
plaint is painful and difficult to cure. 

Lotions 

Lettuce water 200 grammes 

Pure glycerine 50 — 

Tincture of Peruvian balsam 15 — 

Salicylate of soda 5 — 



122 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Peruvian balsam 2 grammes 

Boracic acid 2 — 

Neutral glycerine 60 — 

Glycerine jellies. 

Talcum 1 gramme 

Resorcine 4 — 

Mucilage 10 — 

Distilled water 10 — 

Balsam tolu 10 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Rose milk 20 — 

Oxide of zinc 3 grammes 

Tannic acid 3 — 

Glycerine 45 — 

Tincture of benzoin 6 — 

Camphor 3 

Menthol 3 grammes 

Salol 4 — 

Olive oil 4 — 

Lanolin or Vaseline 100 — 

Camphor oil 10 — 

Balsam Peru 1 — 

Oxide of zinc 3 grammes 

Glycerine 9 — 

Lanolin 8 — 

Essence of roses, Q. S. 



CREAMS. — Creams are more in use than any other 
cosmetical preparation. But like paint, once their use 
has been commenced it must be continued. 

Cream is put on the face as a protection against colct 
wind and sun. 



CREAMS 123 

It is not good to accustom one's self to the use of cream 
if the skin is healthy, neither dry nor oily. When one 
arrives at the age when the skin begins to redden, to 
become wrinkled and shining, creams may become indis- 
pensable, particularly if it is desired to prevent the face 
from ageing. 

Creams help to retain the face powders, by making 
them adhere, and renders their use less injurious. 

Creams to be inoffensive should contain much water. 
Their preparation requires a thorough mixing by pro- 
longed heating of the aromatic waters with the oily sub- 
stances. 

Fat Creams. — These have neutral vaseline as their 
base, lanolin, stearates, soda, potash, ammonia. These 
creams which should be neutral, (neither acid nor alka- 
line) suit dry skins best. 

Lanolin, which should always be the pure anhydrous 
variety, gives creams a disagreeable odor, therefore, it 
must be masked by using some perfume. Gelatine 
is added to creams to increase their adhesive quali- 
ties. 

Oxyde of zinc in small quantities is also added to 
increase their consistency and whiteness ; carbonate of 
magnesia serves the same purpose. To facilitate the. 
intimate mixture of the different constituent ingredients 
of creams, gum tragacanth as well as casein are added. 

Refreshing cream 

Oil of vaseline 10 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 10 — 

Essence of lavender 1 — 

Essence of rosemary 1 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and talcum Q. S. to make a 
cream. 



124 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Cream for wrinkles. 

Lanolin anhydrous 125 grammes 

Distilled rose water 10 — 

Distilled witch hazel water 65 — 

Cream of oxide of zinc. 

Oxide of zinc 3 grammes 

Vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Essence of lavender 5 drops 

Rose water 5 grammes 

Dry Creams. — Dry creams having as their base soap, 
gelatine, cucumber, suit oily skins best. It is well to 
add slightly astringent substances in their preparation. 

Cream for oily skin 

Cold cream 10 grammes 

Cucumber cream 10 — 

Lanolin 20 — 

Oxyde of zinc 10 — 

Boracic cream. 

Chemically pure glycerine 250 grammes 

Powdered starch 20 — 

Biborate of soda 4 — 

Essence of roses 1 — 

Essence of bergamot 1 — 

or 

Cold cream 10 grammes 

Cucumber cream 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Bergamot oil Q. S. 

There are in the trade, any number of creams having 
as their base stearic acid, oxide of tin, glycerine and 
watery substances. These preparations give the skin a 
particularly fine lustre, but it must not be forgotten that 



CREAMS 125 

tin is a poisonous caustic, and undergoes many chemical 
changes dangerous for the skin. 

Indifferent Creams, Mixed Creams, Medical Creams. — 

These creams have oleo-calcareous liniment, sapo- 
lan and lanolin with watery substances, cucumber 
and banana creams as their base and suit most skins. 

For some time past oxygenized creams with vasogene 
or oxygenized vaseline as their foundation have been 
much in use. They are antiseptic and modify the condi- 
tions existing in acne, blackheads, pigmentations and 
desquamation of the face. 

Stimulating cream for dry flaccid skins 

with a tendency to wrinkles. 

Essence of cinnamon 10 drops 

Balsam of Peru 30 — 

Essence of eucalyptus 20 — 

Styrax ointment 1 gramme 

Oil of vaseline 25 — 

Carbonate of calcium 12 — 

Antiseptic cream. 

Calomel 1 gramme 

Subnitrate of bismuth 2 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Resolving cream for congestion and rosacea. 

Oxide of zinc 10 grammes 

Acetate of lead 1 — 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 7.50 — 

Lanolin 5 — 

Vaseline 10 — 



126 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Fluid cream for oily skin with acne and eczema. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 40 grammes 

Lanolin 10 — 

Balsam of Peru 20 drops 

Iehthyol 5 grammes 

Essence of lavender : . . . . 1 — 

Talcum and carbonate magnesia, Q. S. for cream. 



Astringent and tonic cream. 

Vaseline 60 grammes 

Lanolin 60 — 

Tannic acid 5 — 

Balsam Peru 1 — 

Cream for scaling eruptions. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 5 grammes 

Oxide of zinc . 5 

Tannin 1 

Lanolin 5 — 

Indifferent cream. 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 10 grammes 

Oxide of zinc... 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Talcum 20 — 

Cream for shining greasy skins. 

Tincture of benzoin 1 Gramme 

Borax 2 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 30 — 

Orange flower water. 30 — 

Gum tragacanth and talcum Q. S. for cream. 



CREAMS 127 

Cream for scaling skin with acne, redness 
and blackheads. 

Essence of rosemary 30 grammes 

Essence of lavender . 30 — 

Oil of vaseline 10 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 10 — 

Sulphur precipitate '. . . 10 — 

Green soap 10 — 

Tincture quillaya 30 drops 

Glycerine 30 grammes 

Carbonate magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make a 
cream. 

Adherent cream. 

Glycerine 30 grammes 

Rosewater 10 — ■ 

Essence of verbena 20 drops 

Oxide of zinc 5 grammes 

Gum tragacanth, Q. S. to bind. 

Cream for acneic and eczematous skin. 

Essence of verbena 30 drops 

Essence of lavender 30 — 

Ichthyol 5 grammes 

Oil of vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 20 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make 
a cream. 

Oily cream for dry skin. 

Essence of lavender 1 gramme 

Phenic acid 0.50 — 

Ichtyol 5 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 20 — 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 30 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and carbonate of chalk, Q. S. 
to make a semi-fluid cream. 



128 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Dry cream for oily skin. 

Pure gomenol 20 drops 

Essence of verbena . . 20 — 

Ichthyol 20 — 

Balsam of Peru . . 15 grammes 

Lanolin 20 — 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa 20 — 

Carbonate of magnesia and talcum, Q. S. to make 
a cream. 



Tonic cream for dry, irritable and congestive skin. 

Tincture of benzoin 10 drops 

Liquid styrax 10 — 

Milk of almonds 5 grammes 

Lanolin 10 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Tincture of quillaya 10 — 



Fluid creams against wrinkles and scurf and to 
freshen the complexion. 

Anhydrous lanolin 125 grammes 

Distilled rose water 15 — 

Distilled witch hazel water 25 — 



Cream for shining face. 

Cold cream (recently made) 30 grammes 

Acetate of zinc 0.10 — 

Essence of rose 1 — 

Apply for half an hour morning and evening. 

Cream for dry and pimpled face. 

Cerate 20 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 15 — 

Spermaceti 20 — 



CREAMS 129 

Cream for irritable face. 

Vaseline 5 grammes 

Lanolin 5 — 

01. lini. and aqua calcis aa \2y 2 — 

Essence of lavender 20 drops 

Carbonate of magnesia, Q. S. to make a cream. 

Cream for dry skin. 

Rosewater 15 grammes 

Cocoa butter 10 — 

Spermaceti 25 — 

Sweet almond oil 25 — 

Glycerine 5 — 

Cream for a dry skin with pustules. 

Dermatol 2 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

Talcum 10 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Cream for soothing irritable skin and to protect 
from the sun. 

Cold cream 40 grammes 

Cucumber cream 20 — 

Lanolin 15 — 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

Creams for general use. 

Oil of vaseline 1 

Lanolin I aa 40 grammes 

01. lini. and aqua calcis 

Glycerate of starch 100 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Rosewater 10 — 

Tincture of benzoin 1 — 

Essence of roses, Q. S. to make a cream. 



130 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Anhydrous lanolin 350 grammes 

Olive oil .... 130 — 

Boracic acid 20 — 

Glycerine 100 — 

Rosewater 50 — 

Lanolin 5 grammes 

Sweet almond oil 5 — 

Precipitated sulphur 5 — 

Oxide of zinc 2.50 - - 

Extract of violets 0.50 — 

Cherry laurel water 30 grammes 

Glycerine 30 — 

Benzoin 5 — 

Rosewater 30 — 

Orange flower water 30 — 

Starch powder 1 gramme 

Glycerine 32 — 

Essence of rose 3 drops 

GENERAL REMARKS ON THE USE OF CREAMS. 

The above creams are stimulating, antiseptic and 
suitable for skin with a tendency to flushing, scaling, 
pustules, acne and congestion. 

The number and variety of prescriptions for creams 
given is explained by the fact of their great popularity. 
For this reason some further remarks as to their use can 
be in order. 

COMPOSITION OF CREAMS. 

The composition of creams must be as much like the 
secretions of the skin as possible, either oily, dry or 



COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 131 

moist. Creams are compositions which are nearly the 
same as the emulsions or lotions ; they are really solid 
emulsions or lotions which look like the cream of milk, 
hence their name. 

A cream shoula not prevent the respiration of the 
skin or the flow of its secretions : sebum, oil or 
perspiration. 

Creams must be absorbed by the skin and to accom- 
plish this purpose, they must hold as much aqueous 
substances as possible. 

Creams ought not to be acid, nor capable of fermenta- 
tion, nor contain ingredients of strong and disagreeable 
odor. 

Creams have as their ingredients : 

1 — Waters and fluids, varying according to the action 
to be obtained upon the skin. 

Pure water, distilled and sterilized ; aromatic distilled 
waters : rose water, orange flower water, cherry laurel 
water ; medicinal waters and solutions : witch hazel, 
antipyrine. 

2 — Alcohol of varying strength, glycerine, tincture of 
quillaya. It is very important that these last three sub- 
stances be used only in very small quantities, as they 
irritate and dry the skin. 

3. — Fats and solid excipients, which serve as a foun- 
dation for the creams and give them their creamy 
character. 

Such fats are : 

Lard. — Lard, difficult to sterilize, becoming rancid 
quickly, insoluble in water, unless mixed with benzoin 
(which prevents fermentation) in the proportion of 3 
to 5 grammes per 100. 



132 COSMETIC GUIIDE 

Bananas. — These contain gallic acid and mallic acid, 
gum, albumen, sugar, oils and alcohol. The juice of 
bananas is solvent, tonic and stimulating to the skin, 
without drying it. 

Cocoabutter. — Oily matter extracted from the cocoa- 
nut, having the same properties and uses as the oils. 

Cerates. — Preparations with wax, oil and water as 
their base, cerates keep poorly and do not mix well with 
other substances. Because of the oil which they con- 
tain, they render the face often too greasy and are, there- 
fore, not very useful as a cosmetic. 

Spermaceti. — Is insoluble in water, but soluble in 
alcohol, ether and oil. It is much used in the prepara- 
tion of cold creams. 

Wax. — Beeswax enters into the composition of cold 
creams, and serves to give consistency to ointments. The 
difficulty in dissolving it, which can only be done at a 
high temperature, makes it of little use for the com- 
pounding of creams. 

Cold creams. — Formerly used pure. Their actual use 
is a base for creams. But they do not keep well and are 
difficult of mixture with other substances. They become 
rancid quickly, are of complicated composition and are 
very incompatible. 

Diadermin. — A new chemical compound, which can 
serve as a base for indifferent creams. It is a soft 
glycerine soap, holding stearic acid, glycerine, water and 
a small proportion of ammonia. 

Colloidals. — A new preparation recently prepared by 
M. Carrion, containing oxide of zinc, is of vegetable 
origin, neutral, without fats, mixes with water, does not 
spoil, does not irritate the tegument and can be employed 
with advantage for creams intended for oily skins, 



COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 133 

It is white, odorless, neutral, can be sterilized, mixes 
with water, solids and liquids. On account of its being 
easily absorbed by the skin, its penetration of it and its 
inalterability it is useful in the preparation of creams. 

Gelatine. — The variety called grenetine increases the 
consistency and adhesiveness of creams to the skin. It 
must, however, always be sterilized before incorporating 
it in a cream. 

Agar-agar. — This is a vegetable jelly, with properties 
similar to those of gelatine, but has the drawback of 
being propitious to the development of microbes. 

Glycerine. — Much employed in cosmetics, glycerine 
should be neutral in action and mixed with water to pre- 
vent its irritating the skin too much. It mixes poorly 
with fats, but does so readily with soaps and gelatine. 

There are few substances of which the tolerance or 
intolerance by the skin is more difficult to determine. 
Generally it irritates dry skins, and suits better oily 
skins. But it is particularly with glycerine that the most 
irritant chemical combinations are noticed when mixed 
with the fatty acids of the skin. 

When glycerine is mixed with equal parts of rose water 
it is usually well borne by all qualities of skin. 

Gly cerate of starch. — Starch has the advantage of 
increasing the consistency of glycerine, making it less 
irritant and easier to be mixed with other substances. 
It is hard to mix glycerine with fats ; white emulsions 
can be made with fat ingredients, but glycerine separates 
itself from them. Therefore, creams with a base of 
glycerine should always be of recent preparation. 

Glycerine or glycerate of starch are used in the com- 
position of most of the commercial creams. 

Oils. — Creams which have oil for a base, particularly 



134 COSMETIC GUIDE 

sweet almond oil, are useful for dry skins. This oil 
becomes rancid quickly. It is incorporated with vase- 
line, and lanolin especially, by the addition of inert pow- 
ders. An antiseptic must also be added. Sweet almonds 
often replace the natural oils and are much employed for 
emulsions and lotions. 

Lanolin (hydrated) : — This is an extract of the grease 
of sheeps' wool, has the advantage of mixing well with 
water and oily bodies, of being neutral in reaction and 
easily absorbed by the skin, particularly when associated 
with vaseline. The drawback is, that it is slightly irri- 
tant, very viscous and has a disagreeable odor. 

It is, nevertheless, a useful ingredient in the so-called 
indifferent creams. 

Oleo-calcareons liniment. — Made of lime water and 
sweet almond oil in equal parts, this mixture combined 
with vaseline and lanolin, distilled water and powders, 
makes a foundation for a cream which is very useful for 
many cosmetical purposes. 

Cucumber pommade. — With the juice of cucumbers as 
a base, a refreshing effect is obtained, soothing the itch- 
ing and scaling skin. This is the reason that it is so 
frequently used in the preparation of creams, emulsions 
and lotions. 

Paraffin. — Derived from petroleum, it is oily and col- 
orless when liquid, whitish in solid form. 

Small quantities of paraffin increase the consistency of 
creams. It may take the place of vaseline or be mixed 
with it. 

Sapolan. — A combination of naphtha, lanolin and soap, 
which can be mixed with large quantities of water. Its 
brown color prevents its being- used for cosmetical pur- 
poses. 



COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 135 

Soap. — Sometimes Castile soap mixed with glycerine 
and glycerate of starch, is used. Generally almond soap 
is employed or some of the stearate soaps. 

Almond soap. — Is obtained by the action of caustic 
soda upon sweet almond oil. It contains neither glycer- 
ine nor alkalines in excess. It forms emulsions like Cas- 
tile soap with wax, spermaceti, oily salves, essential oils 
and resins. 

Stearates of potash, soda and ammonia. — These are a 
kind of soap resulting from the combination of stearic 
acid with the lye of soda, potash or ammonia. They 
soften the skin and hold the powder on the face. Stearate 
creams are mixtures of glycerine and water. They are 
neutral and indifferent. 

Vaselines. — Products of petroleum. They are both 
liquid (oil of vaseline) and solid. They do not ferment, 
nor are they affected by the air, and are insoluble in 
water and glycerine. Vaselines are not absorbed by the 
skin unless with the addition of lanolin. 

For cosmetic purposes, vaseline must be absolutely 
neutral. For creams, vaseline is mixed with lanolin and 
water. As there is little or no absorption it forms a 
protective covering for the skin. On account of the 
derivatives of the petroleum from which vaseline is made 
creams with a base of vaseline cleanse the skin ; but they 
dry it, irritate it and cause congestion when their use is 
continued too long. 

4. — Complex Combinations used in a natural state or as 
a base for creams. — Most of these mixtures are medicated 
preparations. Sapolan and oleocalcareous liniment have 
already been mentioned. Recently a mixture of glycerine, 
neutral soap and peroxide of hydrogen has been tried as 
a cream or as the base for creams. Also a mixture of 



136 COSMETIC GUIDE 

glycerine, rose water and peroxide of hydrogen has been 
used. 

5. — Powders. — Powders which enter into the composi- 
tion of creams are analogous with those which consti- 
tute face powders. These are powders made from 
starch, wheat, rice, arrowroot, magnesia, talcum, carbon- 
ate of chalk, oxyde of zinc. 

These powders are mixed with the creams in small 
quantities and help to increase their consistency and bind 
their different constituents together. 

6. — Perfumes. — The number of perfumes incorporated 
with creams is considerable. They are essential oils or 
essences (heliotrope, violet, etc.), animal products 
(amber, musk), resins (benzoin, styrax), compound 
products (vanilla, ionone). 

In reference to these latter, it must be understood that 
eruptions may follow their use, such as those which come 
from using bromides. 

7. — Coloring matters. — Creams are sometimes colored 
with carmine, eosine, alkanet and cochineal. 

8. — Chemical substances. — These are used for facilitat 
ing the mixing, preserving the materials used, and 
modifying the action of the cream. 



VdX- 



THE MANNER OF PREPARING CREAMS. 

The methods used in making creams are complex and 
vary according to their composition. Creams being at 
the same time fatty emulsions and aqueous mixtures, 
it is important to achieve an intimate blending of their 
various constituent parts. 

Glycerine, aqueous solutions, lanolin, distilled waters 
and alcohol are mixed cold with powders by prolonged 
trituration with pestel and mortar. 



COMPOSITION OF CREAMS 137 

Oils and fats are dissolved hot or cold in their sol- 
vents. Gelatine is preferably dissolved in hot water. 
When a cream contains water, alcohol, glycerine, and 
vaseline, it is necessary to incorporate once or twice 
their weight in lanolin with them. 

In order to obtain an intimate mixture of powder in 
a solution of alcohol or with aqueous or oily bodies, it is 
necessary to use agents which will make an emulsion, 
such as: gum arabic or tragacanth, jellies or gelatine, 
the white of eggs, milk, caseine, saponin, tincture of 
quillaya or soaps. 

Incompatibilities in the making of creams. — There are 
a certain number of substances which it is difficult or 
impossible to combine with each other in the manufac- 
ture of creams. Thus, glycerine cannot be mixed with 
fats, vaseline or lanolin. It causes borate of soda to turn 
acid. 

The following hints should be observed : 

1. Iodine with creams containing glycerine gives a 
violet color. 

2. Tincture of guaiacum and gum tragacanth give a 
violet color. 

3. The alkalies, carbonate of soda and potassa, and 
musk, will evolve ammonia out of the stearate of ammo- 
nia. 

4. Carmine in creams containing stearates will give 
a violet color. 

5. Sulphur combined with mercury turns the cream 
black. Hence, the face should never be washed with a 
sulphur lotion after a cream containing mercury has been 
used. 



138 COSMETIC GUIDE 

WHEN CREAMS SHOULD BE USED. 

A healthy face, a young woman do not need cream. 

Cream should not be kept on during the night unless 
there are special reasons for it. Cream closes the orifices 
of the glands and prevents the normal functions of the 
skin. 

It should be applied in the morning and retained 
till before going out. 

For the toilet, cream is only put on as a very thin 
coating to hold the face powder. 

Cream is indicated for the face under the following 
conditions : 

1. For dry, scaly skins. 

2. Always when the face is to be exposed to the 
sun's rays, the air, changes of temperature (at the sea 
coast, or when mountaineering, bicycling, automobiling). 

3. For diseases and imperfections of the face. When- 
ever the face is too shining, or covered with acne pus- 
tules (pimples), blackheads (comedons), wrinkles or 
any blemishes. 

HOW TO USE CREAMS. 

As a rule it is better not to use cream before the age 
of thirty, and to remember that once their use has been 
commenced it will have to be continued. 

To apply creams properly, use a piece of absorbent 
sterilized cotton, or very fine linen. Spread lightly fol- 
lowing the course of the folds and going always in the 
same direction, namely, from the middle of the face 
towards its circumference, from the middle of the fore- 
head towards the ears, from the nose towards the cheeks 
and chin. 



DISCOLORATIONS 139 

Creams are removed in different ways according 
whether they are soluble or insoluble. 

Soluble creams with a base of glycerine, jellies or gum 
tragacanth are readily removed with a cloth moistened 
in cold boiled water when the skin is dry, slightly warm 
if the skin is oily. 

Insoluble creams containing vaseline, oils and fats are 
taken off with linen moistened in hot water, or with a 
small wad of absorbent cotton soaked in white neutral 
vaseline well heated. 

CROW'S FEET.— Little wrinkles at the distal corners 
of the eye. See under article on Wrinkles. 

CYSTS. — Cysts are often seen upon the face under 
the eyes. They are small whitish bodies, which originate 
from obstructions of the orifices of the sebaceous or 
sudoriferous glands. They are often called milium. 

They are observed on newborn babies, with adults, on 
dry skins and on old people. 

The article on dry skin and dry seborrhoea deals with 
their treatment. Sometimes it is necessary to open 
them. This is best accomplished by means of a needle 
heated to a white heat. 

DEPILATORY POWDERS.— See Hypertrichosis, 
Electrolysis, Hair on the face. 

DISCOLORATIONS (See Chloasma, Facial Blem- 
ishes). — Change of the color of the face through an 
excess or a want of pigment. 

Excess of pigment occurs in chloasma (with pregnant 
women) and in freckles. 

Loss of color is noted in lepra, syphilis and some skin 
diseases like vitiligo. Often a combination of excess of 
color and loss of color are present together. 



140 COSMETIC GUIDE 

To prevent stains of the skin, the sun's rays must be 
avoided, as well as exposure to wind; gastro-intestinal 
disorders, ovarian and uterine diseases, infections and 
specific diseases must be treated. Also it must be kept 
in mind that arsenic, taken internally may cause excess 
of color. Local treatment consists in rubbing with 
mercurial solutions principally. 

Bichloride of mercury 0.15 to 0.30 grammes 

Chlorhydrate of ammonia 0.15 to 0.30 — 

Emulsion of almonds 120 — 

Sublimate of mercury 1 gramme 

Sulphate of zinc 2 — 

Acetate of lead 2 — 

Distilled rose water 250 — 

Spirits of lavender 50 — 

For external use only. Very irritant; strong poison. 

DOWN.— See Hair on the Face. 

DRESSINGS.— Moist compresses (boiled in water) 
are often used for cleansing the skin, covered with oiled 
silk ; these compresses, as thick as cataplasms or cotton 
wads, ought to be used in cases of inflammation of the 
skin and where crusts have formed. In suppurating 
acne, in certain forms of granular acne with erythema, 
moist dressings are excellent soothing remedies. Their 
use must not be prolonged, for fear of causing macera- 
tion, softening and flaccidity of the skin. 

DRYNESS OF THE SKIN.— This must not be con- 
founded with dry seborrhoea, pityriasis, scales, etc., (see 
those articles). 

Dryness of the face comes either from the absence of 
perspiration, or from some fault in the working of the 



DRYNESS OF THE SKIN 141 

sudoriferous glands. It may also be the result of irrita- 
tion of the skin caused by soap, the wind or the sun, 
among persons with fine skins (children and blondes). 
Sometimes it arises from anemia and debility. It is often 
accompanied by erythema or granular acne. 

Care or Toilet of Dry Face. 

After washing with tepid water and drying with a fine, 
soft towel, apply these lotions alternately: 
First day : 

Sublimate of mercury 0.50 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 15 — 

Water 500 — 

Second day : 

Subacetate of lead 5 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 15 — 

Water 500 — 

If the skin peels, cease these applications ; for they are irri- 
tating. 

Ointments. 

Pure lanolin or lanolin 50 grammes 

Foam of neutral soap 50 — 

Ichthyolate of zinc 20 grammes 

Lanolin 40 — 

Menthol 6 — 

For dry itching skins. 

Peruvian balsam 10 drops 

Powdered sugar 4 grammes 

Yolk of an egg 

Distilled rosewater 180 grammes 



142 COSMETIC GUIDE 

After using a cream, powder with : 

Venetian talcum 40 grammes 

Starch 65 — 

Subnitrate of bismuth 5 — 

On a peeling skin apply for ten minutes the following : 

White wax 10 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 40 — 

Distilled rose water . . 20 — 

Orange flower water 10 — 

Lanolin 2 — 

Salicylate of soda 0.10 — 

DYES. — The question of dyeing the hair or beard is 
so important that this subject cannot be passed over 
without something being said about its dangers. 

To dye the hair for the sake of appearing young or 
to follow the fashion, is offensive and sometimes danger- 
ous. It is offensive, because it gives one a shock to see 
a face full of folds and wrinkles, faded and old, with 
hair not corresponding. It is dangerous, because the 
hair so often suffers under such treatment ; if this is not 
always the case, it is sufficiently often so to characterize 
the practice of dyeing the hair as a dangerous one. The 
hair breaks and falls out under the process, just as it 
does when bleached by means of peroxide of hydrogen. 
If this practice of dyeing the hair is offensive when 
done by old persons, it is equally so when seen among 
the young, because the hair in a natural state corre- 
sponds with the color of the eyes and the complexion, 
and when dyed to a different shade from that given by 
nature, it corresponds with neither, producing an inhar- 
monious effect. 

Often eruptions occur from dyeing, in the form of 
(weeping) eczemas, break out on the scalp, and are 



DYES 143 

hard to cure. Some dyes cause albuminuria by their 
absorption into the system, as well as other serious kid- 
ney and liver troubles. When nitrate of silver and lead 
are employed, even more serious maladies may result. 

It is, therefore, wiser to abstain from the use of dyes 
when it is known that eczemas, liver and kidney troubles 
are so apt to follow, as it is pretty certain to be the 
case with persons not very strong and having a tend- 
ency to such diseases. 

Hence, in order to guard against such occurrences, 
none but safe dyes, which contain no poison, should be 
employed for dyeing the hair, and the work should be 
left to specialists, who have had practical experience 
with dyes and their effects. 

Before using dyes, the oil must be removed from the 
hair; this is done by means of soapy and alkaline ablu- 
tions, as boracic acid, bicarbonate of soda, green soap, 
which it is well to follow with spraying with cologne 
water, or alcohol and ether in equal parts. No ammonia 
or bi-chromate or similar chemicals must be used before 
dyeing the hair. 

It is often necessary to renew the dyeing process every 
two weeks or every two or three months, because the 
hair keeps on growing and the roots show a different 
color from the rest ; also the color changes in time, mak- 
ing the hair appear multi-colored. 

The dye is applied by means of a brush. It takes 
from one to three hours or longer to apply it, according 
to whether one or more dyes have to be employed. The 
first application must be allowed to become dry before a 
second can be made, or until the action of the light has 
taken effect ; as in photography there are successive 
chemical changes due to the action of light. 






144 COSMETIC GUIDE 

After the completion of the dyeing process, the hair 
must be washed, in order to remove the excess of color, 
which might soil the clothing or be absorbed and cause 
accidents. The stains on the skin must also be removed. 

This washing should take place an hour after the dye- 
ing. Soap must be used for the hair when silver salts 
have been employed; the skin should be washed with 
iodide of potassium (10 or 20 to 100). When the stains 
persist, a solution of hyposulphate of soda (5 to 100), 
or a solution of chlorine (1 to 100) will be necessary. 
The irritation of the skin may be allayed by soothing 
creams. 

The Choice of Dyes. — Dyes are used either to change 
the color or the shade of the hair, to make brown 
hair blond, or when white to darken it. Hence, dyes 
are divided into (1) discoloring (peroxide of hydrogen) 
dyes ; (2) vegetable dyes (henna and indigo) ; these are 
harmless; (3) metallic dyes (lead, nitrate) ; (4) aniline 
dyes (paraphenylene-diamine) ; (5) combination dyes. 

Discoloring Dyes. — Peroxide of hydrogen at 12 
vol. This requires successive and repeated applica- 
tions. The hair is simply moistened with the brush 
until the required shade is attained. The hair becomes 
blond, more or less light in color and brittle. 

Vegetable Dyes. — Henna. — This gives a mahogany 
color or Venetian blond color, more or less pro- 
nounced, even as strong as carrot-red. The powder is 
made into a paste, the hair covered with it and then 
enveloped with a hot cloth. This remains on for two 
or three hours according to the shade desired. 

Henna and Indigo. — The use of these two in 
the form of powder, either simultaneously or succes- 
sively, will, according to the length of time given for 



DYES 145 

the application, color the hair jet black. Indigo powder 
requires the application of moist hot cloths. 

Gallnut. — Gallnut containing pyrogallic acid, ox- 
alic acid, is generally used in combination with metallic 
salts. 

Aniline Dyes. — These are known in the trade as 
vegetable dyes, their base being paraphenylene-diamine. 
When a salt of this kind is mixed, just before using, with 
peroxide of hydrogen, a beautiful black is attained. By 
complex mixtures of the aniline derivatives with other 
substances, blond or Venetian red colors are produced. 
These dyes have occasioned itching, eruptions and swell- 
ings with certain persons, also puffy face and eyelids as 
well as headaches. 

It is absolutely necessary, after their application, to 
remove the surplus dye from the hair by repeated wash- 
ings. 

Metallic Dyes. — These are mostly lead dyes, which are 
dangerous ; or silver, copper and iron dyes, which are 
less dangerous to use. 

The dyes having lead for a base must be repeatedly 
applied. In the course of a few weeks, after several 
applications have been made, the hair assumes a yellow, 
brownish red, and finally a black color. 

These dyes will not withstand the effects of washing 
the hair, and besides may cause headaches, tremor, colic 
and albuminuria. 

Salves. — These are combinations of dyes, after the 
fashion of the Orient. They consist (1) of soluble 
metallic salts as iron, copper ; (2) of nutgall or pyro- 
gallic acid, which is employed in the second application. 
These dyes give a fine black color and are harmless. 



146 COSMETIC GUIDE 

EARS. — The presence of lumps of cerumen or hard- 
ened wax (secretion of the glands of the meatus), and 
of discharges, produces erythema or eczema upon the 
surrounding skin ; it is indispensable in cases of this 
kind to get the advice of the ear specialist. To clear 
the ears of wax, pour in oxygenated boracic water of 12 
vol., lukewarm; let it remain from ten minutes to a quar- 
ter of an hour in the canal ; then remove and dry with 
cotton; and afterwards pour in some lukewarm vase- 
line oil. 

Oil of vaseline 20 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 0.50 — 

Resorcin 0.25 — 

Neutral glycerine 18 grammes 

Borate of soda 5 — 

Tincture of quillaya ... 2 — 

Against chapping. 

Salol 4 grammes 

Olive oil ^ 4 — 

Camphorated oil 10 — 

Vaseline 100 — 

Balsam of Peru 3 — 

Laudanum 10 drops 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

To harden the ears use lotions of lemon juice. 
To redden use carmine and vaseline, or rouge. 

ELECTROLYSIS.— Electrolysis is a method 

applying the constant current either for the destruction 
of certain anomalies of the epidermis, particularly of 
warts, hairs, birthmarks, or for introducing medical sub- 
stances into the integument (ionization). 



EMULSIONS FOR THE TOILET 147 

Electrolysis consists of an entirely medical method 
which has its advantages and disadvantages, even its 
dangers, and is not a proper subject to be discussed in 
these pages. 

EMULSIONS FOR THE TOILET.— These are more 
used than almost any other toilet preparation. They 
suit admirably when diluted with water, for all congested, 
irritable, dry and scaly skins ; they also have astringent 
and stimulating properties. Milk is sometimes added to 
these mixtures on account of its soothing and softening 
effect. Their effectiveness and usefulness is mainly due 
to the benzoin, resin and balsams which they contain. 

Tincture of benzoin 15 grammes 

Rose water 1000 — 

Use pure or diluted with water. 

Rose water 300 grammes 

Tincture of myrrh 10 — 

Tincture of benzoin 10 — 

Essence of lemon 4 — 

Tincture quillaya, Q. S. ,to make an emulsion. 

Strawberry emulsion. 

Strawberry juice V2 tumbler 

Borax powder one pinch 

Eau de cologne 20 drops 

Milk of almonds V\ glass 

Or fresh milk J4 glass 

To put on face after washing it. 

Antiseptic emulsion. 

Sweet almonds 40 grammes 

Bitter almonds 10 — 

Rose water 100 — 

Extract of benzoin 1 — 

Two teaspoonfuls in 1 quart of water. 



148 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Emulsion for moist relaxed skin. 

Alcohol 90% 20 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 20 — 

Rectified vinegar 20 — 

A few drops put into the bowl of wash water. 

Emulsion for irritable skin. 

Rose water 500 grammes 

Tincture benzoin 5 — 

Tincture myrrh 5 — 

Lemon water 10 — 

Wash face with it using a wad of cotton. 

Mix tincture of benzoin with rose water to the proportions 
of 15 grammes benzoin and 1 quart rosewater. 
This is very simple and useful. 



Hygienic emulsion. 

Lanolin 25 grammes 

Fresh pork fat 50 — 

Soap of fine oil 15 — 

Pure glycerine 10 — 

Borate of soda 5 — 

Rose water 75 — 

Orange flower water * 7.50 — 

Essence of geranium roseate 4 — 

Cut soap in small pieces and dissolve with the lanolin and 

lard. Mix in another vessel the glycerine, borate of soda and 

the liquids. 



EPHELIDES (Freckles).— See Facial blemishes. 

ERYTHEMA. — Is a congestive condition of the skir 
more or less permanent, due to troubles or disturbance 
in the circulation, arterial or veinous, caused frequently 
by general (heart) or local diseases (wounds, irritants, 
diseases of the nasal mucous membrane). 



EXCESSIVE PERSPIRATION 149 

General treatment must be directed to the cause : qui- 
nine, ergot, digitalis, injections, footbaths, hand baths, 
douches ; electric treatment, blood letting may be neces- 
sary. 

Local treatment consists in massage by electricity, 
high frequency currents, scarifications. 

Lotions and astringent sprays : aromatic vinegars, alco- 
holic lotions. 

Liniment. 

Ichthyol 5 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Prepared chalk 20 — 

Starch 20 — 

Lime water and linseed oil, Q. S. for 100 grammes. 

(Da Costa). 

EXCESSIVE PERSPIRATION or Hyperhidrosis, 
Moist Skin. — Excessive perspiration is due to a condition 
peculiar to the nervous system, caused by weakness, ex- 
haustion or a gouty state. 

Sweat is rarely visible in a normal condition. It 
increases as the result of physical exertions, heat, illness, 
stomach or lung diseases, or mental troubles (emotions, 
reflex action). 

To control it cold lotions must be used, and astringent 
lotions followed by powdering. 

Lotions and astringent applications. 

Benzoin 50 grammes 

Alum 50 — 

Water 500 — 

Alcohol 907c 30 grammes. 

Vinegar 30 

Benzoin 30 — 



150 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Saponin 10 -~ 

Water 500 — 

Eau de Cologne . 200 — 

Lotion for ill smelling sweat. 

Peruvian balsam 1 gramme 

Formic acid 3 — 

Hydrate of chloral 5 

Absolute alcohol 100 — 

To be used diluted in from three to four times its amount 
of water, for fear of irritation. Then powder with : 

Starch 10 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Pure tannin 10 — 

For excessive perspiration in the axilla (under the 
arms), Prof. Riehl, of the Dermatological Clinic of the 
Vienna General Hospital, recommends the use of thin 
layers or sheets of absorbent cotton placed in the axilla, 
which may be renewed as often as necessary. 

Powder also with the following mixture, if the case 
requires it : 



Salicylic acid 0.5 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

Wheat starch 50 — 






The Salicylic Acid may be increased to two and three 
per cent. Also washing the axilla with acetic water, 
Burow solution, one-half per cent, carbolic acid solution 
frequently. 

Sweating feet also are benefited by the above treat- 
ment; only the daily change of stockings, powdering 
same with the above mentioned powder is a perquisite 
to the latter treatment. 



EYES 151 

EXCRESCENCES.— The signification of this word 
is very variable. Every growth on the face is usually 
called an excrescence. Warts are excrescences. Around 
the age of forty to fifty grayish, blackish marks, spots 
and growths appear which belong under this head. These 
are commonly called senile warts. 

If these growths are irritated by rubbing or acci- 
dentally injured in any way, epitheliomata or cancer of 
the skin may develop. 

For cosmetical treatment, see article on warts, moles. 

EYES. — The eyes are often affected by maladies of 
the face or by some disease of one or other portion of 
this organ. Diseases of the conjunctiva, the iris, or the 
innermost part of the eye belong to the realm of the 
oculist. 

Often headaches and fatigue of the eye are symptoms 
of short or long sightedness which necessitates the wear- 
ing of glasses, but this must be decided by an eye spe- 
cialist. 

It is dangerous to use belladonna or atropine in order 
to increase the brilliancy of the eyes and to enlarge the 
pupils. 

Eyelids, if red, swollen, covered with crusts, or secre- 
tions glueing the eyelids together in the morning, with 
itching, must be bathed in hot boiled water, chamomile 
or rose water, lettuce water, etc. 

Lotions. 

Rose water 100 grammes 

Boracic acid 10 — 

A few drops in hot water, and eyes bathed with it. 



152 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Distilled ammonia water 30 grammes 

Sol. acetate of lead 8 — 

camphorated alcohol 8 — 

Sulphate of zinc 2 — 

A few drops to a teaspoonful in a pint of hot water. 

Eye lotion. 

Ichthyol 30 grammes 

Distilled water 70 — 

Tincture of quillaya, Q. S. for an emulsion. 

A few drops in hot water. 

Brush with the following solution : 

Ointment for inflamed eyes. 

Lard 4 grammes 

White precipitate 0.10 — 

Peruvian balsam 0.15 — 

Tannic acid 1 gramme 

Vaseline 10 — 

Eyebrows. — The same indications as for Eye 
lashes, the Beard and Hair. The sensitiveness of the 
eyelids and surrounding parts of the eye must be con- 
sidered when making applications. 

Falling eyebrows may be restored by the Quartz Lamp 
treatment. (See Dr. Miiller's book on Loss of Hair, etc.) 

Falling of eyebrows and thin eyebrows. 

Alcohol at 80% 10 grammes 

Boracic acid water 100 — 

Essence of violet 10 drops 

Alcohol 90% 100 grammes 

Tincture in quinquina S — ■ 



EYEBROWS, EYELASHES 153 

For greasy eyebrows. 

Rose water 100 grammes 

Acetic acid 12 — 

Tincture cantharidis 12 — 

Essence of violet 25 — 

This is an irritant lotion. 

Eyebrows with small pellicules. 

Glycerine 25 grammes 

Alcohol 10 — 

Rose water 10 — 

Pellicules. 

Beef suet 25 grammes 

Sweet almond oil 15 — 

Flowers of sulphur 2 — 

Salicylic acid 0.50 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 1 — 

Starch 1 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

Eczema of eyebrows and lashes. 

Lead plaster 5 grammes 

Castor oil 5 — 

Balsam of Peru 0.50 — 

To blacken the eyebrows. 

Nitrate of silver 1 gramme 

Extract walnut leaves 2 — 

Lard 10 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Essence of bergamot 10 drops 

Pass over eyebrows on piece of cotton. 

Eyelashes. — The eyelashes frequently come out as 
the result of eye fatigue (fine needle work or pro- 
longed reading), inflammation of the eyelids, glands, and 
conjunctivitis. 



i 



154 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Bathing the eyelids in very hot water is preventive as 
well as a cure for this trouble. 

In extreme cases epilation may be resorted to, then 
cauterization with lunar caustic. 

Lotions of salicylic acid 1 to 2,000; bathe the eyelids, 
and afterwards apply the following salve on the edge of 
the eyelids : 

For falling eyelashes with inflammation.* 

Lotion of salicylic acid 1 to 2,000; bathe the eyelids, and 
afterwards apply the following salve on the edge of the eyelids. 

Gallic acid 1 gramme 

Castor oil 4 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Spirits of lavender 6 drops 

For falling eyelashes. 

Infusion of tea 100 grammes 

Quinine sulphate 1 — 

Use as a lotion. 

Ointments. 

Cold cream 10 grammes 

ygnapthol 0.01 — 

Salol 0.01 — 

Iodol 0.01 — 

Apply at night. 

Vaseline 2.50 grammes 

Lanolin 2.50 — 

Oxyde of zinc 0.02 — 

or 

Vaseline 5 grammes 

Boracic acid 0.20 — 



♦Falling eyelashes, like falling eyebrows, may be restored by 
the Quartz Lamp treatment. See Loss of Hair, etc., by Dr. 
Richard W. Mullen 



EYES— CONJUNCTIVITIS 155 

Falling eyelashes. 

Distilled water 490 grammes 

Alcoholic extract rosemary 5 — 

Alcoholic extract arnica 5 — 

Bichloride of mercury 0.20 — 

To thicken, strengthen and improve eyelashes, pull out 
those which do not grow straight. 

Eyelids. — See Conjunctivitis, Eyelashes, Styes, un- 
der article on Eyes. 

Black circles under the Eyes. — The black rings 
around the eyes result from fatigue, night watches, or 
from utero-ovarian diseases. Certain persons of brown 
skin have brown eyelids which are permanently dis- 
colored. 

In order to diminish this brown discoloration, or make 
it disappear altogether, they should be bathed in hot 
water, mornings and evenings, hot compresses of water 
with the addition of a small quantity of lead water 
should be applied. 

Conjunctivitis (See also Watering eyes, further 
on in this chapter). Conjunctivitis is recognized by red- 
ness of the eyelids and their inner mucous lining. It is 
caused by external, nasal or internal affections. 

When of external origin it appears most often as the 
sequel of an infection, or comes as the effect of dust, 
high winds, or eye strain. When of nasal origin it 
accompanies an ordinary cold in the head. When, how- 
ever, it is of internal origin, it is the precursor of 
measles, and appears in numerous cases of illness, when 
the conditions are bad, as with the debilitated, the 
lymphatic or scrofulous subjects. 



156 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Conjunctivitis is also often accompanied by blepharitis, 
keratitis and iritis ; all of which require the expert treat- 
ment of the oculist. 

Lotion. 

Sulphate of zinc 0.60 grammes 

Rose water 125 — 

or 

Borate of soda 8 grammes 

Distilled water 200 — 

In the treatment of conjunctivitis, collyria are fre 
quently employed, which are applied by means of a drop- 
tube, one or more drops put into the eye ; the head is 
bent backwards, the eyelids held open with two fingers 
of the left hand. The eyelids are shut and opened sev- 
eral times. 

Collyria. 

Distilled water 10 grammes 

Adrenaline, 1-1000 0.02 — 

One or two drops in the eye. 

Sulphate of zinc 0.05 gramme 

Distilled water 10 — 

Three drops in the eye mornings and evenings. 

or 

Chloride of zinc 0.01 gramme 

Distilled water 5 — 

Two drops three times a day. 

Ointment. 

Vaseline 10 grammes 

Aristol 0.25 — 

Redness of the Eyes. — See Conjunctivitis, Eyelashes, 
Styes. 



i 



SWELLED EYELIDS 157 

Styes. — Little white lumps on the edge of the eye- 
lid often accompanied with conjunctivitis. These are 
little furuncles on the eyelids, very painful, and usually 
several come in succession. 

Try to abort with an application of tincture of iodine, 
done very carefully. 

Ointments. 

Oil of vaseline 50 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds = . . . 50 — 

White vaseline 10 grammes 

Birch oil 10 — 

White precipitate 10 — 

Swelled Eyelids. — This is a frequent companion of all 
troubles of the eyelids, conjunctivitis, blepharitis and 
others. 

When the lower eyelids are swollen it may be a symp- 
tom of albuminuria. The swelling of eyelids with which 
we have to do here, however, is caused by night watches, 
hard work, sorrows and tears. 

Hot compresses, astringents and antiseptics, must be 
used ; and, in chronic cases, massage. 

Astringent solution. 

Distilled rose water 125 grammes 

Pure alum 5 — 

Ointment. 

Oil of vaseline 5 grammes 

Castor oil 5 — 

Gallic acid 0.50 — 

Tannin 0.50 — 

Extract of violets - 1 drop 



158 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Watering Eyes. — Watering or weeping eyes may 
be the consequence of an obstruction in the lachrymose 
ducts. It is frequent in winter ; and it comes as the result 
of a strange body or an irritation of the eyes, particu 
larly of the conjunctiva and eyelids. 

For the prevention and cure of this condition, bathe 
with very hot water, either pure, or with the addition 
of astringents (lead water, from 5 to 20 grammes in a 
bowl of water). 

Collyria. 

Distilled rose water 10 grammes 

Alum -. 0.5 — 

One or two drops. 

Ointment. 

Lanolin 10 grammes 

Lard 10 — 

Aqueous extract of belladonna 0.50 — 

Aqueous extract of aconite 0.50 — 

Apply at inner corner of eye in small quantities. 

FACIAL BLEMISHES.— Blotches on the face are 
of many aspects and forms, and of various origin. (See 
Chloasma and Discolorations, Redness, Rosacea.) 

Their color varies from bright yellow to blackish 
brown; some are white; other colors are rare or artifi- 
cial. 

Spots of brown color are : (1) Lenticular birth marks 
or freckles, brown spots, liver spots; (2) In plaques: 
chloasma or marks of pregnancy, sunburn caused by 
the sun and air. 

The white or black spots are : (1) In circular or irregu- 
lar plaques: vitiligo, of nervous origin; leucoderma, 



FACIAL BLEMISHES 159 

of syphilitic or leprous origin; (2) reticular or network; 
syphilitic pigmentations, generally on the neck. 

There are also white and black marks found together : 
syphilitic leuko-melanoderma. 

There are other marks the origin of which is con- 
genital, or are birthmarks : lentigo ; others are frequent 
among blondes, the red-haired, upon fine skins under 
the influence of sun and air : ephelides or freckles. 

The sun causes also brown pigmentations of the skin 
called sunburn. 

Pregnancy causes special spots : chloasma or marks of 
pregnancy frequent among brunettes. Diseases of the 
liver, of the suprarenal capsules, certain general dis- 
eases (syphilis, leprosy), certain medications (arsenic, 
the salts of silver), also cause numerous pigmentations. 
Finally tattooing, seldom on the face, gives peculiar 
colors. 

Certain of these pigmentations or spots, particularly 
sunburn and freckles, may be prevented by wearing a 
veil of green or blue color, of thick gauze ; by avoiding 
the sun and variations of temperature (parasols), or may 
be diminished by precautions and applications of pre- 
ventive cosmetics (greasing the face). 

The spots w T hich have their origin at birth (lentigo), 
or those which develop upon fine skins (ephelides), are 
the most difficult to get rid of. 

The white spots (vitiligo) being a discoloration of the 
skin, usually of nervous origin, must be treated by 
general treatment and by electricity (electric methods). 

Blemishes caused by syphilis and leprosy necessitate 
the treatment of these diseases. 

The spots caused by medicine call for a cessation of 
that medicine. 



160 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Lentigo or Freckles. — These are little brownish 
yellow spots, frequent among blondes or red-haired 
people, coming spontaneously. They resemble birth 
marks. Same treatment as for chloasma, freckles and 
sunburn. 



■ 


r m 


- :! " : aiS 


w 






w 




IHipP** ' "2nH 




* ^ 


r: t\J| 




* * '•• 


5?5te^..- '^B 


-*> 




^mS? .^M^. 'jdji,' ' , ^ 


1 


#7-:- 


iBBi ; ^ h ^i s 




- 


■'— ;; J 


; ■ 


^-^ , .' \* "'* 


WKF^^KtjjB 


Ja 







Fig. 21. — Case of freckles. 
White discolored blotches and pigmentation or spots 
with an excess of color. 

Remedies for freckles, red blotches, etc. — In this 
article I shall only give the mildest remedies. 

Freckles. 

Distilled water 250 grammes 

Sulphate of zinc 2 — 

Acetate of lead 2 — 









FACIAL BLEMISHES 161 

Yellow marks on face. 

Sulphate of zinc 4 grammes 

Potass. Sulphuret 4 — 

Rose water 120 — 

For a clear complexion. 

Wash once a month with the yolk of an egg. 

Or still better: take the juice of a lemon and with the white 
of an egg make a sort of cream; apply as an ointment on the 
face. 

/3 napthol 10 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 12 — 

Powdered starch 12 — 

White vaseline 35 — 

Apply at night and keep on one hour; in the morning apply 
cream, then powder. 

Yellow complexion and acne pimples. 

Water 1000 grammes 

Sulphuret of potassium 25 — 

Use as a lotion. 

The removal of red blotches is incomplete, lengthy, 
difficult and often dangerous to effect. 

It is necessary to employ for this purpose medicaments 
which contain lead, mercury and sulphur. The salts of 
lead and mercury are poisons and irritants. The use 
of sulphur must be avoided when these salts are em- 
ployed, and if peroxide of hydrogen has been used first, 
it must be thoroughly wiped off; without these precau- 
tions, the skin of the face will become quite black. 

Irritant methods causing loss of the skin. 

Touching with weak solutions of hydrochloric acid at 
5 to 10 to 100 water ; acetic acid diluted in half its quan- 
tity of water or glycerine. 



162 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Irritating application. 

Corrosive sublimate 0.50 grammes 

Distilled water or alcohol 50 — 

Applied only to the spots for 4 hours. It produces a vesi- 
cation (blister) which must be cared for. 

Lotions for freckles, 

The face should be washed with hot tea and, at night, lotions 
such as the following should be used : 

Chlorate of potash 2 grammes 

Rose water 250 — 

Distilled water 250 grammes 

Liquid ammonia 2 — 

Essence of lemon 10 drops 

Corrosive sublimate 1 gramme 

Glycerine 5 drops 

Eau de Cologne 10 grammes 

Talcum 10 — 

Alcohol 90% 100 — 

Apply this lotion at bedtime on gauze and cover with oiled 
silk. 

Ointments. 

Cold cream 30 grammes 

Essence of anis 2 — 

Sulphur flowers , 1 — 

Cocoabutter 10 grammes 

Castor oil 10 — 

Oxide of zinc 0.20 — 

White precipitate 0.10 — 

Rose essence 10 drops 

White of one tgg , 

Barley flour 20 grammes 

Rose water 30 — 

Apply at bedtime and let dry on, 



FURUNCLES 163 

FLACCID OR FLABBY SKIN, baggy cheeks, flaccid 
cheeks (See also Wrinkles). — The use of fresh cold 
water for washing is to be recommended more than any- 
thing else for this condition. Toilet waters containing 
vinegars, alcohols and astringent preparations, elec- 
tricity, local douches and massage must be resorted to 
according to the necessities of the case. 

Lotion. 

Liq. alum acet 10 grammes 

Alcohol sol. of lavender 20 — 

Alcohol sol. of verbena . . 50 — 

Cologne water 30 — 

FRECKLES.— See Facial blemishes. 

FROSTBITES.— Frostbites are most often found 
upon nose and ear, the most prominent parts of the 
face. Their treatment must be medical and not cosmeti- 
cal. In the beginning treat same as itching. Hygiene, 
habits, the health in general have a great deal to do 
with the production of frostbites. 

As a preventive Brocq recommends the following 
pills. 

Sulphate of quinine 1 gramme 

Aqueous extract of ergot 0.50 — 

Powdered digitalis 0.10 — 

Powdered belladonna root 0.05 — 

For 40 pills. Take 3 daily for four weeks or longer. 

FURUNCLES. — Furuncles may appear occasionally 
upon the face. These are hard circumscribed red swell- 
ings of the size of the head of a pin to that of a hazel- 
nut. In the centre is a vesicle, which upon opening dis- 
charges a reddish watery substance. After a few days 
pus follows. 



164 C0SME1TC GUIDE 

It is important to prevent suppuration and for this 
purpose cold compresses are used with good results 
Also the following mixture : 

Ointment. 

Ammonia sulpho-ichthyolate .... 3.0 grammes 

Corrosive Sublimate 0.1 — 

Vaseline 30.0 — 

Rub this in twice a day. 

(Unna). 

HAIR ON THE FACE.— Hair on the face is of two 
varieties : fine and light colored down ; hard and black 
hairs; these last give more resistance to depilatory 
preparations. The destruction of the hair may be accom- 
plished: by pincers (epilation), by electricity (electro 
lysis), by X-rays (radio-therapy). 

I shall concern myself here only with depilatories, the 
use of which has but a temporary effect, and which 
besides, are very irritating to the skin. There are 
in use also preparations which hide the hairs by 
bleaching them, especially hydrogen peroxide at 12 
volumes, either as a lotion or as ointments. 

Ointments. 

Hydrogen peroxide 10 grammes 

Lanolin 10 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

(Lefebre). 

Lanolin 10 grammes 

Simple ointment 10 — 

Liquor sodi chlori natr 10 — 

Peroxide of hydrogen a 12 vol 10 — 

Precipitate of sulphur 4 — 

(Monin). 



HAIR ON THE FACE 165 

Preparations for Removal of Hair.* — These prepara- 
tions have as their base alkaline sulphurs (potassium, 
sodium), earthy alkalines sulphurs (calcium, bary- 
um, strontium), arsenical sulphurs (orpiment or arsenic 
trysulphide) incorporated to inert powders. For use 
they are diluted with w r ater to the consistency of a paste, 
or are mixed with glycerates of starch, or oxide of zinc. 

The depilatories having arsenic as their base must be 
rejected and instead those having sulphohydrate of cal- 
cium, mono-sulphur of sodium and sulphate of baryum 
be used. 

These depilatories must be used very carefully. Pro- 
ceed thus : Try first the sensibility of the skin by using 
it on some hairy part of the limbs; if no great irritation 
results, it may then be applied on the face. Follow with 
lotions and soothing ointments. 

Depilatories are always applied in the form of a paste. 
Left on two or three minutes. Then wiped off, the place 
washed, and powdered with an inert powder, or dressed 
with glycerated cream or ointment. The hairs should 
come off in washing. One application should be suffi- 
cient. 

Depilatories. 

Quicklime 10 grammes 

Glycerated starch 10 — 

Sulphuret of soda 3 : — 

Oxide of zinc 3 — 

Rose water, Q. S. for consistency of paste. 



*See Hair, Its Nature, Growth and Most Common Affections, 
With Hygienic Rules for Its Preservation, by Richard W. 
Miiller, page 73, etc. 






166 COSMETIC GUIDE 

or 

Quicklime 8 grammes 

Sulphuret of soda 3 — 

Oxide of zinc 2 — 

Glycerated starch • . 10 — 

Before applying add enough rose water to make a paste. 

Tincture iodine 3 grammes 

Spirits of turpentine 6 — 

Castor oil 4 — 

Alcohol 48 — 

Collodion 100 — 

Cover the hairy parts with this, three or four days in succes 

si.on; all the hairs will adhere on removing the crust formed by 

the collodion. 
It must be understood that the plastered places must not be 

washed till the operation is finished. 

Various depilatories. 

Lanolin 5 grammes 

Rose water 5 ' — 

Sulphur of barium 2 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

This is one of the best. 

Carbonate of soda 10 grammes 

Chalk 5 — 

Fresh lard 40 — 

These two depilatories are to be applied from three to four 
minutes. 

Quicklime 1 gramme 

Vaseline 12 — 

Quicklime 115 grammes 

Powdered iris 15 — 

Add enough rose water before using to make a paste at 
the moment of using it. 



HUMID SKIN 167 

HERPES (See also Lips). — Herpes is found in three 
stages on the face: (1) before eruption, in the form of 
redness and burning pains; (2) in the vesicular stage; 
(3) in the crusty, peeling stage when scabs are formed 
and the healing process takes place. (For salves and 
ointments, see Lips). 

HUMID SKIN (See Perspiration). — Excess of gland- 
ular action (sudorific and sebaceous glands) will 
make the skin oily and shining, often seen in acne. Cold 
douches and friction, spraying and astringents must be 
employed to remedy this condition. 

Lotions. 

Tannic acid 0.50 gramme 

Spirits of verbena 300 — 

Eau de Cologne 300 — 

Afterwards powder with : 

Rice powder 40 grammes 

Boracic acid .... 20 — 

Starch 20 grammes 

Bicarbonate of soda 5 — 

Boiled water 1 quart 

Eau de Cologne 100 grammes 

Hydrate of chloral 1 — 

Phenic acid 0.25 — 

Spirits of lavender 30 drops 

Milk of roses. 

Rose water 300 grammes 

Infusion of roses 300 — 

Neutral glycerine 300 — 

Spirits of geranium 10 — 

Salicylic acid 2 — 



168 COSMETIC GUIDE 

HYPERHIDROSIS.— See Excessive Perspiration. 
HYPERTRICHOSIS.— See Hair on the Face. 

INTOLERANCE OF THE SKIN.— A condition of 
sensitiveness of the skin for certain soaps, cosmetic rem 
edies, irritants, air and sun. 

This is frequently found among young children. Cer- 
tain persons have special idiosyncrasies, not being able 
to use some drugs without getting eruptions and intoler- 
able itching. This happens most often when dyes are 
used. 



e 

: 



ITCHING, PRURITUS.— Itching is often caused by 
local troubles, in ear, nose, eye : frostbites, otitis, rhin- 
itis, conjunctivitis, eczema ; or generalized all over the 
face : urticaria, symptomatic pruritus. The cause mus 
be removed. 

Locally : spray the face with antiseptic vinegar lotions 
diluted with water, apply compresses of the same mix- 
ture. The lotions given below should be diluted with 
water, if irritant. Powder the face, if oily ; apply cream, 
if dry. 

Lotions for itching. 

Salicylate of soda 8 grammes 

Bicarbonate of soda 8 — 

Boiled water 1000 — 

Sterilized water 100 grammes 

Lead water 100 — 

Camphorated alcohol 100 — 

Phenic acid 2 grammes 

Tincture quillaya 5 — 

(Gastou and Guillou.) 



ITCHING, PRURITUS 169 

Carbonate of potash 5 grammes 

Cherry laurel water 100 — 

Distilled water 100 grammes 

Formalin 3 — 

One tea spoonful to a cup of boiled water (lukewarm). 

Salves for itching. 

Menthol 0.40 grammes 

Vaseline 40 — 

Lanolin 40 — 

Balsam of Peru 10 grammes 

Naphthol 4 — 

Vaseline 40 — 

Paste. 

Phenic acid 0.15 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 15 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Powders. 

Starch 100 grammes 

Subnitrate of bismuth 5 — 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Calcined magnesia 15 grammes 

Salicylic acid 2 — 

Talcum Venetian 30 — 

Barber's Itch (See Beard and Chin). — The use of the 
razor often gives rise to scales and sometimes inflamma- 
tion of the follicles of the hair : sycosis ; very rebellious. 

JELLIES. — Jellies are made mostly of casein, (albu- 
men of milk), gelatine. They are also made of the 
glycerates of starch. 



: 



170 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Water 100 grammes 

Gelose 1.25 — 

Glycerine i 10 — 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Glycerole of starch 100 grammes 

Salicylic acid 1 — 

Oxide of zinc, Q. S. to thicken. 

LENTIGO.— See Facial Blemishes. 

LIPS. — To keep the lips in good condition it is neces- 
sary to avoid too much heat, dryness, toothwashes which 
are too astringent and which contain irritable antiseptic 
ingredients. 

Atrophy of the Lips requires careful search fo 
adenoid growths. If there are none, electricity, massage 
and tonic lotions must be used. 

For cracked lips. 

Cocoa butter 20 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 — 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

Tincture of vanilla 1 — 

Boracic acid 1 gramme 

Neutral glycerine 24 — 

Anhydrous lanolin 5 — 

White vaseline 70 — 

Add color and perfume. 

Vaseline sterilized 50 grammes 

Lanolin 25 — 

Borate of soda 3 -- 

Essence of bergamot 20 drops 

Cocoa butter 100 grammes 

White wax 25 — 

Castor oil 25 — 

Infusion of tannin 15 — 

Infusion of gaultheria 4 — 



LIPS 171 

To protect the lips. 

Tincture of benzoin 15 grammes 

Tincture balsam of peru 15 — 

Put on like a varnish. 

Herpes, lip sores, fever sores. — Herpes very often 
appears upon the lips and is very painful and annoying. 
This is commonly known by the name of fever-sores, 
they are due to microbic infection. 

The vesicles must not be disturbed, the crusts which 
soon follow the formation of the vesicles must be kept 
on if possible. 

The following salves will be found effective for allay- 
ing pain and aiding the healing process : 

Cocoa butter 2 grammes 

Oil of sweet almonds 8 — 

Tincture of benzoin 10 drops 

Salicylic acid 1 gramme 

Oxide of zinc 2 — 

Lanolin 100 — 

Tincture of benzoin 30 drops 

Hypertrophy of Lips (swelling and tumefaction). — 
It is frequently found in connection with scrofula, 
maladies of the jaws and teeth, in erysipelas and infec- 
tions, also at birth as a deformity. The treatment con- 
sists mainly in electrolysis, scarification and sometimes 
surgical interference. 

Pale Lips. — Treat general condition ; hot stimulating 
lotions must be used. 

Ointment. 

Rose ointment 20 grammes 

White wax 20 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 — 

Rose water 5 — 



172 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Dry Lips. — Use sweet almond oil, cucumber salve 
vaseline, lanolin, or this preparation : 

Glycerate of starch 30 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 3 — 

LOTIONS. — Here follow a number of useful prescrip 
tions for face lotions to be used in the morning and eve- 
ning after washing the face according to the condition 
of the skin. For this purpose, absorbent sterilized cot- 
ton is to be used, with which the fluid is taken up and 
rubbed upon the face. Cotton should also be used for 
drying the face afterwards, and finally dry or oily cream 
or powder is to be applied, according to the state of the 
skin. 



Lotion for a sensitive irritable skin. 

Rosewater ; 100 grammes 

Boracic acid 1 — 

Essence of heliotrope 5 drops 






Lotion for a face with red spots, pimples, blackheads. 

Biborate of soda 10 grammes 

Neutral glycerine 80 — 

Peroxide of Hydrogen 460 — 

Orange flower water 460 — 

Lotion for an oily skin. 

Eau de Cologne 100 grammes 

Essence of verbena 1 — 

Menthol 0.25 — 

Thymol 0.30 — 

To add to the water. 

Refreshing lotion. 

Orange flower water 1000 grammes 

Pure glycerine 5 — 

Borax 1 — 

To be used pure. 



LOTIONS 173 

Princess of Wales lotion for dry skin. 

Milk half a pint 

Juice of lemon half a lemon 

Wash face with this at night. 

Antiseptic lotion for acne. 

Boracic acid 25 grammes 

Pulverized borate of soda 75 — 

To be put into toilet water. 

Lotion for flaccid skin and wrinkles. 

Rose water 100 grammes 

Whites of 4 eggs 

Alum 15 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 15 — 

Boil till it thickens. To be used at night. 

Lotion for excessive perspiration. 

Distilled water 1 quart 

Alum 50 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 25 — 

For use at night. 

Softening lotion. 

Rose water 60 grammes 

Cherry laurel water 10 — 

Distilled water 50 — 

Neutral glycerine 30 — 

Biborate of soda 5 — 

Vanillin 0.05 — 

Lotion for dry skin. 

Rose water : 900 grammes 

Tincture of myrrh 10 — 

Tincture of benzoin 10 — 

Essence of lemon 4 — 

Tincture of quillaya, Q. S. to make an emulsion. 



174 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



MASKS. — These are applications of mixtures, compo- 
sitions or tissues which prevent the contact of the air 
with the skin. They act in two ways : 



1 




Fig. 22. — Mask for chin and neck. 

1. By facilitating the penetration and absorption by 
the glands and superficial strata of the skin of certain 
compounds : these are cosmetical or medicated masks. 




Fig. 23. — Ideal partial mask. 

2. By quickening the functions and circulation of the 
glands, thus aiding to throw off substances which 



MASKS 



175 



obstruct the skin and the epidermis : these are rubber 
masks. 

Cosmetical Masks. — These are what might commonly 




Fig. 24. — Butterfly mask for nose, 
be called cataplasms. They act by their heat and 
humidity. They take the place of compresses which are 




Fig. 2.5. — Mask for the whole chin. 

covered with water proof tissues. They are analogous 
with plasters. 



176 



COSMETIC GUIDE 






They were frequently used in olden times under the 
name of husband's masks, because they were put on 






. .;..;;.;; 










HP 


< : - ;; 


', JUf&'Mr- W 


**WKr 




^m*' 








, , „ ..A 



Fig. 26. — Mask for neck, chin and ears. 
when retiring and only the husband had the pleasure of 
seeing them. 

The "husband mask" of Poppea, one of the most cele- 




Fig. 27. — Medical mask. 
brated, was made of rye boiled with oil, so as to make 
a thick paste, and removed in the morning by bathing 
the face in tnilk. 



MASKS 



177 



The composition of other masks will be found n the 
article on the complexion. 

Masklike applications have been made also o» dif- 




J 



Fig. 28.— Partial butterfly mask. 

ferent parts of the flesh of animals, particularly of veal. 
Now-a-days, rubber masks are principally used. In the 




Fig. 29. — Complete butterfly mask. 

following pages are reproductions of the cuts of the dif- 
ferent kinds of vulcanized rubber masks. 



178 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Rubber Masks. — These masks have many different 
effects, and as it can be seen by the pictures, their forms 
are numerous. 




Fig. 30. — Mask placed around eye-sockets. 

It has already been mentioned that their essential qual- 
ity is to quicken the functions of different constituents 




Fig. 31. — Mask for part of chin. 

of the skin, and on this account they are, along with 
spraying, one of the best means of cleansing and giving 



MASKS 



179 



tone to the skin, and thus preventing wrinkles, conges- 
tion, dryness, blackheads, greasy seborrhoea and all 
general eruptions. 




Fig. 32. — Mask for forehead. 
But it must not be forgotten that, associated with their 
use, there must be other treatment, because otherwise 
they soften the skin and make it flabby. 




Fig. 33. — Partial Mask. 
The intermittent application of rubber masks, the mas- 
sage and sprays, combined and alternated, appear 



180 COSMETIC GUIDE 

to me to be the three most effective means for improving 
and preserving the condition of the face. 

Every time the mask is taken off, it should be 
washed with hot, then with cold boric acid water, and 
placed to dry, well protected from any dust. 

MASSAGE. — I have written on massage in the first 
part of this book "Hygiene of the face," but this subject 
has assumed such importance in the last few years that 
I am obliged to revert to it again. 

There are three kinds of massages : 

1. The plastic massage of Dr. Jacquet. 

2. The manual massage. 

3. The vibratory massage. 

The plastic massage of Dr. Jacquet is a violent mas- 
sage that must be done only by the physician. 

The manual massage can safely be used, when the skin 
is healthy, as a preventive against wrinkles. Then it 
should be accompanied by some good lotion and dry 
frictions. 

Massage is useful when there is any trouble with the 
face, because it quickens and therefore regulates the cir- 
culation; but it should then be considered only as an 
accessory to help other cosmetical or medicated remedies. 

Any one can massage himself every evening before 
retiring, following the direction of the normal folds of 
the skin ; it is near these folds wrinkles are likely to occur. 

The thumb and one or two fingers are used, lightly 
pressing while gliding and rubbing. The massage lasts 
five to ten minutes; it is followed by a spray, by an 
astringent lotion, or with the application of a local mask 
or bandage if needed. This massage, done from the 
thirtieth year, when certain troubles begin to show, may 
prove of great benefit in the future. 




181 



Fig. 34. — Massage of forehead (frictions). 

The masseuse stands to right of the patient. The 
right hand while kneading moves iff a transverse direc- 
tion. The movements are made in zigzags, commencing 
at the nasal bone and going towards the forehead up 
to the hair. 

The left hand simultaneously moves from the lower 
part of the forehead to the hair with a light stroking of 
the skin. 




Fig. 35. — Smoothing out wrinkles on forehead. 



Lightly stroking the forehead with the first and 
second fingers of both hands in a transverse direction. 
The movements start from the middle of the forehead 
and continue up to the temples. The masseuse stands 
behind they patient. 



182 



COSMETIC GUIDE 




Fig. 36. — Kneading the nose with thumb and forefinger 
of right hand. 

The movements from side to side are gentle vibra- 
tions extending from the point to the root of the nose. 
The masseuse stands at the patient's right side, her left 
hand supporting the patient's head at the back. 




Fig. 37. — Massage for crow's feet. 

By means of the thumb of the right hand, the left 
hand holds the forehead, while the thumb of the other 
hand gently strokes the temple, going from the corner 
of the eyelids up to the hair line. 



MASSAGE 



183 




Fig. 38. — Massage of upper eyelids. 

Massage of the upper eyelid. The skin of the eyelid 
being very delicate it must be stroked very gently with 
the first finger from the inner corner of the eye near 
the nose. 




Fig. 39. — Massage of lower eyelids. 

Proceed the same as for the upper lid. for swelling 
and puffing, and for wrinkles. 



184 



COSMETIC GUIDE 




Fig. 40. — Patting lower eyelids to remove folds, wrinkles 
or swelling. 

Gently tapping the lower lid in order to efface folds 
and puffiness. The four fingers are used alternately 
gently touching the eyelids with them as in playing on 
the piano. 




41. — Stroking the lower eyelid. 

The first finger moves gently from the root of the nose 
towards the temples. This movement is for the wrinkles 
which run from the nose to the temples. 



MASSAGE 185 




Fig. 42. — Kneading right cheek. 

With both hands half shut, in a transverse direction 
over face. It is principally the thumb and first fingers 
which are used : the latter are bent at right angles. 
Double movement. The right hand half shut, moves in 
a transverse direction over the face, from the centre 
towards the outside, then in an inverse direction mov- 
ing up simultaneously from the lower jaw to the upper 
maxillary bone and extending the movement to beneath 
the lower lid. The movement is continued towards the 
lower jaw and the right ear, passing over the lower 
maxillary bone as far as the right lower eyelid. The 
masseuse stands at the right side behind the patient. 



186 



COSMETIC GUIDE 




Fig. 43. — Stroking creases under eyes with both thumbs. 

This movement begins at the bridge of the nose and 
is directed over the upper maxillary bone under the 
lower lid to the region of the temples. 




Fig. 44. — Massage of the face. 

The fingers of both hands, excepting the thumbs, 
lean on the cheeks between the upper jaws and the 
upper branch of the lower jaw. The masseuse begins 
to move the skin by bringing together and withdrawing 
in turn as quickly as possible, the ends of the fingers. 
After a certain number of shakings on one part of the 
face, the tremulous fingers are applied to another part. 
The thumbs do not touch the face. The masseuse 
stands behind the patient. 



MASSAGE 



187 




Fig. 45. — Massage of lower part of face. 

Both thumbs are placed upon the cheeks, while the 
fingers gently stroke the lower part of the face, going 
from the chin towards the ears. 




Fig. 46. — Stroking furrow between nose and lip. 

This is done with the two thumbs ; it goes from the 
middle of the upper lip to the branches of the upper 
jaw. 



188 COSMETIC GUIDE 







Fig. 47. — Stroking furrow between chin and lip. 

This massage done with both thumbs, commences 
immediately under the lower lips, then continues to the 
upper branches of the lower jaw. The masseuse being 
to the right of the patient. 






Vibratory massage is done with the aid of a special 
apparatus called the vibrator, by hand or by a machine 
moved by electricity. It is applied by the subject him- 
self or by an assistant. 

The essential condition of the application is that it 
must not be painful nor continued too long. It acts by 
grazing (touching lightly), rubbing, or pressing lightly. 
It is applied by a vibrating stem at the end of which is 
a bulb, a disc, or a flat or hollow cup. 

When vibratory massage is joined with electrical ac- 
tion, it is called sismotheraphy which belongs to the do- 
main of medicine. 

The general rule for all facial massage is, first the 
cleaning of the face and all the instruments as well as 
the hands ; the use of talcum powder or special mixtures, 






MASSAGE 



189 



powders and creams varying according to whether the 
skin is dry or oily. After massage always give the cos- 
metical care required by the condition of the face. 

Vibratory massage has acquired a great vogue in the 
last few years ; there are now in the market for this 
purpose numerous apparatus which can be held in the 
hand and worked either by the hand left free or by a 
small electric motor. 





Fig. 48. — Massage for crow's Fig. 49. — Massage of nose with 
feet with the Vedee vibrator. the Vedee vibrator. 



To this mechanical massage is often joined the action 
of continuous or interrupted currents. The working of 
these instruments is very simple and most of them are 
accompanied by directions explaining the manner of 
using them. 

MOLES, BEAUTY SPOTS.— Moles when small and 
advantageously placed, are sometimes called beauty 
spots. They are black, brown or yellow of color, from 



190 COSMETIC GUIDE 






the size of a lentil to that of a ten cent piece, generally 
round, but sometimes oval in shape, smooth on the sur- 
face, often raised over the level of the skin; sometimes 
one or several hairs grow on them. 

They are of the same nature as birth-marks. They 
sometimes come after birth ; and in old age, when irri- 
tated, may turn into cancer of the skin. 

It is difficult to cause them to disappear without leav- 
ing a slight scar. They must be protected from the sun 
which makes them grow in dimension. 

Electrolysis, cauterization by a galvanic burner and 
the thermo-cauter are the best means to use for their 
destruction. 

Electrolysis has the advantage of destroying the hair 
at the same time as the mole. 

X-rays, radium, removal with bistoury are the only 
remedies for the larger moles. 

NECK. — The care to be given to the neck is the same 
as that required for the face. 

It is easier to protect the neck from cold, the sun and 
dust, than the face. But the high collars, ribbons and 
furs now so much in evidence, must be carefully selected, 
as the color and material may contain substances which 
injure the skin. 

It is preferable to leave the neck uncovered; every- 
thing which tightens or constricts it, will inevitably lead 
to erythema and redness of the face. 

NOSE. — The nose requires special hygienic care, being 
with the ears, the parts most exposed to the changes of 
temperature and of the circulation. 

The shape of the nose varies much; it is straight 
(Grecian nose) ; it is long and pointed, thin and tapering, 



NOSE 191 

aquiline, big and short, thick, round, retrousse (turned 
up), also called nose of Cleopara, flat, twisted, etc. 

Among heavy eaters the nose increases in size, also 
with persons who pick it or keep touching it all the time, 
or when there is any disease of the nostrils. 

Repeated colds in the head with adults, adenoids with 
children, thicken and redden the nose. 

With many persons, even when quite young, the end 
of the nose is red, especially when under the influence 
of the cold, particularly of cold feet. Excess in eating, 
reading or writing with the head bent, and certain 
organic affections cause the nose to become red. 

Frequently chilblains, black points and blackheads are 
seen on the end of the nose. 

The sides of the nose are often greasy. The interior 
of the nostrils is furnished with long hairs which may 
be inflamed and cause suppuration, giving then rise to 
folliculitis or furuncles. 

Whenever there is an affection of any kind of the nose, 
it must be examined, and any coryzas, rhinitis, growths 
or deflections be treated. 

If the nose has a tendency to get red, it should be 
bathed, night and morning, when making the toilet, with 
very hot water, into which has been put some drops of 
the following so as to obtain a white liquid : 

Alum 30 grammes 

Strong vinegar 30 — 

Tincture of benzoin 10 — 

Handkerchiefs of fine linen should be used, and used 
gently. Never pull out the hairs in the nose, but rather 
cut them. Never press out the blackheads on the nose 
too violently or too often, but bathe as above. 

Deformities of the nose are often difficult to correct. 



192 COSMETIC GUIDE 

It has been tried to reduce the size of the nose by wear- 
ing pincers which constrict the arteries at the root oi 
the nose. 

Narrow nostrils are dilated with prepared sponges 
Little confidence should be placed in injections of paraf- 
fine for deformities of the nose. 

Acne of the nose is treated in the same manner as that 
of the face, which has been explained under that heading 
at the beginning of this formulary. See also the article 
on redness, erythema, etc. 

Blackheads, Blackpoints. — See Blackheads. 

Coryza, or rhinitis, as it is properly called, should 
receive general treatment : quinine, remain in bed or in 
room, hot foot baths with mustard. 






Inhaling solution for rhinitis. 

Menthol 10 grammes 

Alcohol 90% ' 78 — 

Ammonia 12 — 

Inhale six to seven drops upon a handkerchief several times 
a day. 

Inhalation or fumigation. 

Menthol 1 gramme 

Eucalyptol 1 — 

Essence of thyme 5 — 

Essense of lavender 5 — 

Tincture of tolu 10 — 

Alcohol at 90% 100 — 

Put one teaspoonful into a cup, pour boiling water over it 
and inhale the fumes. 

Ointments. 

Antipyrin 1 gramme 

Boracic acid 1 — 

Vaseline 20 — 

Apply in nose three or four times daily. 



NOSE 193 

Or 

Lanolin 15 grammes 

Glycerine 15 — 

Salicylate of naphthol 2 — 

Menthol 0.50 — 

Eucalyptol 0.50 — 

Apply three to four times in nose daily. 

Application. 

Menthol 0.10 grammes 

Eucalyptol 0.12 — 

Oil of sweet almonds 60 — 

Camphor 0.15 — 

For children. 

Instil four times a day into each nostril two or three drops of : 

Menthol 0.20 grammes 

Sterilized olive oil 20 — 

Ointments. 

Thymol 0.20 grammes 

Resorcin 0.30 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Vaseline 20 grammes 

Menthol 0.10 — 

Extract of nux vomica 0.15 — 

Distilled rose water 20 drops 

Chronic Coryza. — This coryza, called as well chronic 
rhinitis, often causes redness of the nose. It is 
the origin of sycosis of the upper lip, showing itself by 
suppurating pimples, or by an eczematous eruption. 

In rebellious cases, the vapor of iodine should be 
inhaled ; treat by cauterizing and in bad cases by the 
epilation of the hairs or bristles growing at the entrance 



194 COSMETIC GUIDE 

of the nostrils. With children, and even with adults, 
examine to see if there are any adenoid growths. 

Lotions and cauterizations. 

Nitrate of silver 1 to 3 grammes 

Distilled water 100 — 

Apply at night and morning. 

Peroxide of Hydrogen at 12 volumes. 
Local applications two or three times a day. 

Permanganate of Potash at 1-200, 1-100. 
Use once a day. 

Thymol 0.50 grammes 

Resorcin 0.30 — 

Glycerine 20 — 

For cauterizing; very strong. 

Nasal irrigations. 

Solution of permanganate of potash, 0.25 to 0.50 grammes 
to 1000 grammes of boiled water. 

Salicylic acid 10 grammes 

Chloride of sodium 400 — 

Bicarbonate of soda 200 — 

Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of this mixture in a quart of 
lukewarm boiled water. 

Nasal irrigations are made either with a syringe, or 
with a glass instrument or with a special nasal douche. 
These irrigations bring with them the danger of caus- 
ing the mucus to penetrate into the ear drum, bringing 
on suppuration of the middle ear (otitis). It must be 
done with the nostrils closed, the mouth open, while 
breathing deeply. The nose must not be blown after the 
irrigation for fear of bringing on otitis. 



NOSE 195 

Insufflations. 

Iodol 10 grammes 

Boracic acid powder 10 — 

Tannin 5 to 10 — 

Blow into nostrils two or three times a day. 

Powders for snuffing up. 

Acetate tartrate of aluminum 4 grammes 

Lactose 6 — 

Salol 2 grammes 

Porate of soda 15 — 

Boracic acid 15 — 

(Martin). 

Sore nose following Coryza. — See Acne/ Erythema. 

Ointment. 

Cherry laurel water 10 grammes 

Extract of belladonna 0.50 — 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Starch 12 — 

Anhydrous lanolin 22 — 

Chilblains or Frostbites (see Frostbites for the treat- 
ment of chilblains in general). — Simple chilblains, a 
vaso-motor trouble, a sort of local asphyxia, must 
not be confounded with lupus-pernio, which is a 
tuberculosis of the skin. Apply hot lotions of water 
mixed with milk, some toilet water or alcohol with a 
decoction of nut leaves. 

Powders. 

Salicylate of bismuth 10 grammes 

Talcum powder 10 — 



196 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Ointments. 

Cocoanut butter 25 grammes 

Nut oil 5 — 

Citric acid 0.25 — 

White precipitate 0.15 — 

Tincture of musk 10 drops 

Salicylic acid 1 gramme 

Oil of sweet almonds 40 — 

Starch powder 1 — 

Neutral glycerine 20 — 

Enlarged nose, hypertrophy (see also Rhinophyma). 

— Irritations of the nose whether from the interior 
or from the outside, cause it to become enlarged. 
Growths from acute coryza, chronic coryza, inflammation 
and tumors in the interior of the nose all contribute to 
produce hypertrophy. But this is especially found as a 
result of erythema and acne ; this hypertrophy runs into 
rhinophyma. 

The treatment for these affections of the nose is : mas- 
sage, electrolysis, cauterizing. 

Nasal Irritation. — See Coryza. 

Bad odor from nose. — See Ozena. 

Ozena or stinking nose. — Most painful for the patient 
and for all who come near. It may result from chronic 
inflammation causing atrophy of the mucous membrane 
or it may be the manifestation of syphilis, either heredi- 
tary or acquired. 

If syphilis is the cause, the special treatment of this 
malady is called for. Stinking nose requires local treat- 
ment from the rhinologist for the affections of throat 
and nose. The nose must be freed from the mucus, 
which forms and remains there. Irrigations with per- 






NOSE 19? 

oxide of hydrogen containing boracic acid at 12 volumes, 
mixed with water or even pure, irrigations of a solu- 
tion of permanganate at 1 per 4,000, to 2,000 or to 1,000; 
irrigations of salt water, two teaspoonfuls of white salt 
to 1,000 water. 

Inhalations. 

Camphor 8 grammes 

Tincture of iodine 10 — ■ 

Iodide of potassium 2 — 

Tar 12 — 

Alcohol 90% 100 — 

Water 250 — 

Place in hot water and inhale the vapor. 

Ointments. 

Menthol 0.20 grammes 

Aristol 2 — 

Sterilized vaseline 25 — 

Menthol 1 gramme 

Eucalyptus 0.20 — 

Oil of vaseline 60 — 

For inhaling. 

Menthol 1 gramme 

Alcohol 60 — 

Put on handkerchief and inhale. 

Snuff. 

Salol 2 grammes 

Borate of soda 15 — 

Boracic acid 15 — 

Wash. 

Menthol 0.10 grammes 

Chlorate of potash 30 — 

Put into 1 quart of warm boiled water. 



198 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Paraffine. — The injection of paraffine is only permis- 
sible in cases of nasal or other deformities caused by ac- 
cidents, or with which a person has been born, deformi- 
ties which render life miserable. 

The use of injections of paraffine for effacing wrinkles, 
or to hide any defects depressions or irregularities of the 
face, may bring about many troubles. I have been re- 
peatedly consulted by pretty women who, having tried 
to improve a small defect of the face, have later on been 
obliged to remove the paraffine. This necessitates inci- 
sions, producing cicatrices, which often become protrud- 
ing, white, hard, a real deformity of the skin. 

Rhinitis. — See Coryza and Ozena. 

Rhinophyma. — This affection, a true deformity char- 
acterized by a prominent red nose covered with growths, 
is he result of chronic inflammation of the sebaceous 
glands with hypertrophy of these glands. 

Rhinophyma is treated the same as acne. Besides, 
scarifications, cauterizations, electrolysis are used. 

If these means are insufficient, skinning must be 
resorted to. 

Redness of the nose (see Congestion, erythema and 
acne). — Redness of the nose is often accompanied by a 
shining, greasy condition, or with dryness and desqua- 
mation. 

Local causes : Due to diseases of the mucous membrane 
of the nose or its vicinity : coryza, rhinitis, polypus, ade- 
noid growths ; or to maladies of the skin of the nose : 
acne, erythema, seborrhoea. 

General causes : Above all, troubles of the circulation 
and bad digestion. 

Troubles of the circulation: Heart disease, lung 
troubles (asthma), chlorosis, anaemia, diseases of the 



NOSE 199 

uterus, cold feet; corsets, garters or clothing worn too 
tight ; excesses of cold or heat, sudden changes of tem- 
perature. 

Digestive causes : Abuse of food, excess in wine or 
alcohol, gastric or intestinal dyspepsia, reading too soon 
after eating. 

The treatment for redness of the nose is, therefore, 
either general or local ; it must be in accordance with the 
troubles mentioned above ; it is necessary to improve the 
condition of the nasal mucous membrane which should 
neither be dry nor congested; the obstructing mucus in 
the nose must be removed. 

For clearing nose. 

Menthol 0.10 grammes 

Resorcin 0.15 — 

Vaseline , , . . , 20 — 

For reducing congestion of mucous membrane. 

Touching with a solution of antipyrin at 1-10, 1-20, 1-50. 
Touching with a solution of adrenalin at 1-2000, 1-1000. 

For the dryness or the mucous secretions of the nose, 
use fatty substances : vaseline, oil of vaseline, oil of 
gomenol, either pure or with the addition of medica- 
ments. 

For redness of nose. 

Use boiled water in which has been put a dessert to 
a tablespoonful of the following mixtures, according to 
the tolerance of the skin : tincture of benzoin, toilet 
vmegars, white emulsions, alcoholic lotions. 

Generally after the lotions or vapor sprays with these 
mixtures, astringent powders are used for drying, if the 



200 COSMETIC GUIDE 

skin is greasy and shining; fats, particularly vaseline, 
when the skin is dry ; then wipe with a fine linen. 

Lotions and sprays. 

Powdered Borax 10 grammes 

Eau de Cologne 10 — 

Water (pure) 150 — 

For lukewarm lotions, the borax is first dissolved in the 
water. 

If there is a tendency to acne : 

Distilled rose water 250 grammes 

Camphorated spirits 30 — ■ 

Precipitate of sulphur 20 — 

Gum arabic pulverized 8 — 

Apply in the morning : 

Benzine 60 grammes 

Flowers of sulphur 10 — 

Essence of rose 1 — 

Powdered borax 2 grammes 

Rose water 20 — 

Orange flower water 20 — 

Use as a lotion; do not wipe. 

(Vaucaire). 



De Lusi recommends the following procedure : 
Wet compresses of gauze in benzine, (they must be 
well sterilized and without any dressing and folded to 
several thicknesses) ; apply for about five minutes 
(according to tolerance), pressing but not rubbing upon 
the red places. 

Powders. 

Subnitrate of bismuth 6 grammes 

Prepared chalk 15 — 

Rice flour or starch 45 — 






! 



OBESITY 201 

Prepared chalk 10 grammes 

Calcined magnesia 10 — 

Powdered lycopodium 15 — 

Starch 100 — 

Powdered gentian 12 — 

Ointments. 

For 15 days apply every evening: 

Naphthol 0.35 grammes 

Camphor dissolved in alcohol 0.35 — 

Precipitate of sulphur 2 — 

Lanolin 25 — 

White precipitate 0.50 grammes 

Boracic acid 1.50 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Ichthyol 0.50 grammes 

Ergotin 3 — 

Lanolin 8 — 

Vaseline 8 — 

(De Regla). 

OBESITY. — Greasy clamminess of the face, which is 
rarely partial ; it accompanies embonpoint and general 
obesity. The cure of obesity, which belongs to the prac- 
tice of medicine, calls for the intervention of hygiene, 
regulation in the way of living and medicaments which 
only the physician can order and direct. 

The use of thyroid or of iodine without their being 
prescribed by a physician has many inconveniences as 
well as dangers. As the fat cure is often followed by 
the appearance of wrinkles, it is well to be forewarned. 

The use of astringent preparations dries the skin and 
causes congestion ; they should neither be used in quan- 
tity nor for too long a time. 



202 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Mechanical treatment. — Astringent lotions and sprays, 
local douches, compresses, electrization, massage. Mas- 
sage with vaseline mixed with iodine may bring on ery 
thema and pigmentation. 

Local medical treatment. — Gives only very relativ< 
results, and is besides irritant. 

Solution. 

Acetate of lead 2 grammes 

Sulphate of zinc 2 — 

Bichloride of mercury 0.50 — 

Tincture of benzoin ■ 15 — 

Rose water 300 — 

As a lotion to be applied twice a day, or applications made 
for an hour or two at night (Irritant). 

Ointment. 

Sub-nitrate of bismuth 3 grammes 

Oak bark powder 3 — 

Powdered gall nuts 3 — 

Powderd alum 5 — 

Oxide of zinc 3 — 

Lard 60 — 

PAINTS. — Paints for the face are used either for hid- 
ing blemishes and heightening beauty, or for improving 
the complexion and rejuvenating it. All paints contain 
poisonous substances. 

Paints are much used by actors for making up for the 
stage. When they are to be used the condition of the 
skin, whether dry or oily, must first be taken into con- 
sideration. They are best removed by means of vase- 
line. 

It is well to remember that when once begun, it is 
difficult to cease the use of paints on the face; and that 
they are not alone injurious for the skin which they. ruin 



PAINTS 203 

and age, but also for the general health, because of the 
poisonous chemicals which enter into their composi- 
tion. 

Salts of mercury and lead, which are poisons and turn 
black when exposed to the air, are the foundation of 
almost all paints. These are colored yellow, red, blue or 
black according to the purpose for which they are 
destined. The principal coloring matters are : Carmine, 
eosin, cochineal, alkanet, sienna, various blues (Prussian, 
azure, ultramarine), lamp black, China ink. 

Paints are divided into liquid paints, soft paints, paints 
in powder form, in sticks, or on papers. 

To assure the proper mixing of the substances com- 
posing these paints and their adherence to the skin, gum 
tragacanth in powder is used. 

It is well to recollect that paints containing sulphur 
will turn black those containing bismuth, lead or mer- 
cury. 

Even perspiration alone may turn paints brown. 

White paints in liquid form. 

They are little in use as they do not adhere as well as 
soft paints. 

Rosewater 500 grammes 

Glycerine 5 — 

Nitrate of bismuth 250 — 

Spread over face and let dry. Then brush gently. 

For dry skin. 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 grammes 

Spermaceti 10 — 

Talcum 9 — 

Oxide of zinc 1 — 

Perfume (any) ad libitum. 



204 COSMETIC GUIDE 

For blondes. 

Solution of eosin, 1 to 50 30 drops 

Solution of carmine 10 — 

Rose water 125 grammes 

Glycerine 10 — 

For brunettes. 

Solution of eosin, 1 to 50 10 drops 

Solution of carmine 20 — 

Triple extract of rose 20 grammes 

Rose water 100 cubic centimeters 

Glycerine 10 — — 

These preparations to be spread over the face before apply- 
ing rice powder. 

White, soft paints. 

These are really creams : 

White wax 25 grammes 

White vaseline 250 — 

Lanolin 125 — 

Subnitrate of bismuth 200 — 

Venetian talcum 50 ■ — 

Spermaceti 15' — 

(De Tramar). 

Subchloride of bismuth 100 grammes 

Powdered Venetian talcum 60 — 

Fresh lard 60 — 

Spermaceti 20 — 

Glycerine pure 40 — 

(Izard). 

White powder paint. 

Wheat or potato starch 50 grammes 

Rice powder 50 — 

Essence of geranium 5 drops 



PAINTS 205 

Red liquid paint. 

Carmine 8 grammes 

Talcum 55 — 

Oil 7 drops 

Gum Arabic sol 15 grammes 

Glycerine 100 grammes 

Gum Arabic in fine powder 3 — 

Rose water 50 — 

Eosin 0.50 — 

Essence of bergamot 10 drops 

Essence of roses 3 — 

Red solid paints. 

White vaseline 70 grammes 

White wax 15 — 

Cold cream 15 — 

Sol. eosin, 1 to 50 20 drops 

Carmine 20 — 

Cold cream 10 grammes 

Lanolin 7.50 — 

Oxide of zinc 7.50 — 

Carmine 0.10 — 

Eosin 0.01 grammes 

Tincture benzoin 2 — 

Ol. lini. and aqua calcis aa. 7.50 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Lanolin 5 grammes 

Cocoa butter 5 — 

Carmine 0.10 — 

Tincture benzoin 10 drops 

Talcum 10 grammes 

Cold cream 10 — 

Distilled rose water, Q. S. 

(Pepin). 



206 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Red dry paints. 

Talcum SO grammes 

Carmine 1 — 

Spermaceti 50 grammes 

Carmine, red 2 — 

Talcum 5 — 

Water, Q. S. 
Crush and let it get dry. 

Blue liquid paints. 

Azure blue 6 grammes 

Talcum 25 — 

Gum water, Q. S. to make a paste. 
Let it get dry. 

Blue soft paint. 

Prussian blue 2- 5 grammes 

White vaseline 100 — 

Essence of geranium 10 drops 

Poisonous. 

Black soft paints. 

White wax 100 grammes 

Lard 125 — 

Lamp black 125 — 

Lamp black 5 grammes 

Lanolin 5 — 

Vaseline 5 — 

. Black dry paints. 

Lamp black 100 grammes 

Powdered gum arabic 3 — 

Essence of roses 5 drops 



PALENESS 207 

PALENESS. — Paleness of the face accompanies ane- 
mia, convalescence, overwork, sitting up late, night 
watches, fatigue and nervous troubles. It often coin- 
cides with dilatation of the vessels and dryness of the 
skin. 

Treat the general condition, use stimulants in the form 
of white emulsions and toilet vinegars. 
Lotions of water and cold local douches. 

Lotion. 

1 glass of lemon juice 

1 glass of distilled water. 

Essence of rose 5 drops 

PAPERS, PAPER LEAVES.— These are prepared in 
many ways; they constitute: (1) perfumed papers, which 
are placed among note paper, or used instead of sachets ; 
(2) rice powders in books; (3) soap in leaves; (4) anti- 
septic papers; (5) deodorizing papers. All these prepa- 
rations are made by coating or saturating the papers with 
the perfumes either by vaporization or immersion. 

PASTES. — Pastes, particularly almond paste, are used 
more for the hands than for the face. 

Cosmetic paste. 

Starch 30 grammes 

Vaseline 60 — 

Cocoa butter 15 — 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

White wax 1 — 

Color and perfume. 

(Cavalhies). 



208 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Medicinal paste. 

Boletum Rubrum 0.34 grammes 

Glycerine '. . 20 drops 

Sol. eosin 7 — 

Zinc paste 40 grammes 

For persons with irritable skins, can be used as a rouge. 

PERFUMES. — Perfumes are made from animal, vege- 
table or mineral extracts. 

Animal perfumes. — These are taken from the secre- 
tions of the glands of certain animals, as : amber, castor, 
civet, musk. 

Vegetable perfumes, called also essences or natural 
perfumes. They are divided into essential oils or es- 
sences, resins and balsams. They are extracted by ex- 
pression, distillation, etc., from most of the aromatic 
plants. 

Synthetic perfumes. — They are of chemical origin. 
The industry in this variety of perfumes has assumed 
considerable importance. 

The mixing of the perfumes from these three sources 
and the varieties thus obtained are so large that they 
cannot be enumerated here. They are of infinite variety 
according to the inventiveness of the perfumer and the 
imagination of those who use them. They come in the 
form of extracts, spirits, powders, sachets, etc. 

Perfumes have a great influence upon the organism. 
They may cause headache and dizziness. Strong per- 
fumes should never be abused ; but if used moderately 
they are without danger. 

Never put upon throat or breast a perfume having for 
its base lavender, lemon, benzoin, violet or rose. Dis- 
trust all exceedingly penetrating perfumes as tuberose, 
lily, jasmine, etc. 






PERSPIRATION 209 

Sensitive and nervous persons should never use musk, 
nor should apathetic persons use benzoin. Verbena, on 
the contrary, is good for everyone. 

For persons of a lymphatic nature, the use of sachets 
of lavender, mint, thyme, etc., is much to be commended. 
Here follow two receipts of harmless and delightful per- 
fumes : 

Woodbine perfume. 

Take equal quantities of alcoholized extracts of rose and 
tuberose ; mix in the proportion of half a pint of each. Add a 
wineglass each of extract of vanilla and of extract of tolu. 
Then add 8 drops of Neroli (extract of orange blossoms) and 
4 drops of the extract of almonds. 

The perfume will be as penetrating and agreeable as the 
flower itself. 

Verbena perfume. 

Into half a pint of pure alcohol, put a quarter of a pint of 
the essence of rose, then about 100 grammes of the extract of 
orange blossoms and the same quantity of tuberose, rather less 
than more of each extract. To this mixture add 28 grammes 
of the essence of lemon, 14 grammes of the essence of orange 
bark and 2 grammes of the essence of verbena. 

PERSPIRATION. See also Excessive Perspiration 
and Hyperhidrosis). — The normal secretion of the sweat 
glands is salutary and necessary for the well being of 
the human species. It cools the body and regulates the 
temperature of the same. 

Certain nerves and centres control the production 
of perspiration. When these are out of order, 
great annoyance is caused and a pathological condition 
obtained. 

The hands are always moist ; objects are soiled by their 
touch and unpleasant feelings are caused even when 
shaking the hands of friends. 



210 COSMETIC GUIDE 






When the skin on the feet is macerated by the over- 
production of perspiratory fluid, fungoid and bacterial 
growth develop in consequence. This is the cause of 
ill-smelling feet. 

The Axilla may be similarly affected and even the loins 
are often affected by this condition. 

However, we have at our command excellent remedies. 
I will mention a few of the best. For the mildest forms 
washing the part three times daily with cold water, 
eventually also with Castile soap, and moistening with 
any of the following mixtures will generally be found 
satisfactory : 

Powdered boracic acid from 2 to 5 grammes 

Diluted alcohol, add 100 — 

Thymol 1 gramme 

Tannic acid 5 — 

Spirit of camphor, add 100 — 

These applications should be allowed to dry in t\ 
air and at night powder parts with 

Aluminum 3 grammes 

Talcum 17 — 

or 

Salicylic acid 5 grammes 

Boracic acid 10 — 

Tartaric acid 10 — 

Oxide of zinc 40 — 

Talcum 40 — 

Powders like the above are strewn into stockings anc 
gloves. They are applied to the arm pits by means of 
thin layers of absorbent cotton and can be used on any 
other part of the body similarly affected. 

When sores, excoriations and breaks in the skin have 
occurred the physician should be consulted, 



POWDERS 211 

PERSPIRATION OF AXILLA AND FEET.— See 

Excessive perspiration. 

PIGMENTATIONS.— See Facial Blemishes. 
PITYRIASIS.— See Scales. 

POWDERS.— In Part I, Hygiene of the Face, I 
have shown the evils of powders ; they never should 
be used on dry skins, without first applying a coating 
of cream. The best powder is made of rice flour, pulver- 
ized and perfumed. Powders ought to fullfil many 
requirements in their composition. The following is a 
sample of what the component parts of rice powder 
should be : 

Powder of rice flour. 

Powder of rice flour... 500 grammes as base 
Subnitrate of bismuth.. 50 — as absorbent 
Hydrate magnesia .... 50 — to give lightness 

Red gum lac... 50 — to color 

Essence of rose 2 — to perfume 

Talcum 50 — to make it adhere 

Sarah Bernhardt powder. 

Venetian talcum 2 parts 

Rice flour 2 — 

White zinc 1 — 

Perfume, Q. S. 

(Monin). 

Body of perfumed adherent powders. 

Kaolin, very white and extra pure 250 grammes 

Oxide of zinc (light) 400 — 

Starch of rice or corn 200 — 

Carbonate of magnesia 150 — 

Coumarine, pulverized 0.50 — 

Artificial musk, pulverized 0.50 — 



212 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Bases of powders. 

(1) Caseine powdered to an extreme degree, mixed with min- 
eral powders (talcum, fuller's earth) ; (2) carbonated chalk, 
mixed with vegetable powder (powdered rice, starch). 

Formulas for powders. 

Talcum 20 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 10 — 

Pulverized starch 10 — 

Perfumed and colored ad libitum. 

Powdered iris 10 grammes 

Powdered rice 30 — 

Essence of violet 5 drops 

Subnitrate of bismuth 20 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 20 — 

Starch 20 grammes 

Venitian talcum 10 — 

Subnitrate of bismuth 5 — 

Essence of violets 5 drops 

REDNESS. (See Congestion, Erythema, Frostbites, 
Acne). — Redness of the face is caused by many things : 
besides the passing redness caused by the emotions of 
those having a sensitive nervous system, circulatory 
troubles, the digestion, cold and heat frequently give rise 
to reflex redness. The habitual color of the skin depends 
upon its structure and the complexion. 

Preventive means. — Against excess of color : no over- 
eating; hot foot baths, woolen stockings, corsets worn 
loose, hot lotions either of pure water, or with the addi- 
tion of some drops of benzoin, 



REDNESS 213 

Bathe the face in warm water and touch spots with a brush 
dipped in : 

Precipitate of sulphur 3 grammes 

Glycerine 10 — 

Spirits of camphor 10 — 

Water 15 — 

Powder with : 



At the first appearance of erythema. 

Salicylate of bismuth 5 grammes 

Resorcin 0.50 — 

Prepared chalk 20 — 

Starch 100 — 



Bathe with : 

Ether (sulphuric) 15 grammes 

Tincture of quillaya 25 — 

Essence of lemon 40 — 

Rose water 45 — 

Nut oil 10 drops 

Apply every evening some astringent cream and cover with 
this powder : 

Hydrate of magnesia 10 grammes 

Camphorated chalk 12 — 

Resorcin 1 — 

Starch 100 — 



Twice a week use the following : 

Chlorhydrate of adrenaline 1 to 1000 2 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 2 — 

Talcum 2 — 

Lanolin 8 — 

Vaseline 8 — 



214 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



Apply at night and keep on one hour: 

j8 Naphthol 10 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 12 — 

Powdered starch 12 — 

Yellow vaseline 35 — 

Continue for several days in succession. In the morning apply 
a pure lotion of roses. 

To avoid the redness caused by cold, cover the face 
with cold cream, vaseline or lanolin, then powder with 
starch. A veil should be worn. When returning indoors, 
bathe face with tannin lotion, spirits of camphor, etc. 

Cover the face with yolk of a fresh egg; let it get 
dry ; keep on for three hours ; wipe off. 

Fresh cream ; also bathing with sulphurous waters. 

Ointment. 

White precipitate 0.50 grammes 

Boracic acid 1.50 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Boracic acid 1.50 — 



RESINS AND BALSAMS.— Resins and balsams, for- 
merly very much used, have again come into use. Resins 
are the products of the oxygenation of natural balsams, 
the natural sap of certain vegetations which contain 
besides benzoin and cinnamon acids, essential oils from 
which perfumes are extracted. 

Resins and balsams have tonic properties, contracting 
the tissues, and are antiseptic as well. They enter into 
the composition of plasters, white emulsions, lotions and 
toilet vinegars. 

White emulsions. 

Tincture of benzoin 10 grammes 

Rose water 100 — 



ROSACEA 215 

Sweet almonds 30 grammes 

Bitter almonds 10 — 

White honey 5 — 

Balm of Peru 5 — 

Tincture of balm of tolu 3 grammes 

Rose water 300 

(Hirzel). 

ROSACEA (See Acne, Congestion, Redness) — Rosacea 
is a permanent congestive condition of the face which 
generally comes with age. Certain skins, either too 
dry or too oily are predisposed to it. Rich living, ner- 
vous excitement, sexual disorders, irregular menstrua- 
tion, will likely bring it on. 

The treatment should be same as for congestion of the 
face. 

Acne, seborrhoea, scurvy, if present, should be actively 
treated. 

Scarification and electrolysis are often necessary to 
cause the disappearance of the little blood vessels, which 
look like varices upon the epidermis. Hot sprays are 
very useful, but very hot water must be used for them. 
Bran water, boracic acid solutions are also good. Also 
applications every evening of : 

Lotions. 

Decoction of juniper wood 25 grammes 

Acidi boracici 30 — 

Sulfuris sublimati 10 — 

Aluminis 3 — 

Camphor 1 — 

Glycerine 10 — 

Alcohol 907c 10 — 

Leave on three hours. 



216 COSMETIC GUIDE 

RUGOSITY OF THE SKIN.— See Dryness of the 
skin. 

After washing face, rub with one of the following- 
lotions : 



LOTIONS. 

Oil of sweet almonds 200 grammes 

Neutral glycerine 10 — 

Tincture of benzoin 5 — 

Orange flower water 1000 grammes 

Neutral glycerine 50 — 

Borate of soda 10 — 

Apply three times a day, then powder. 

(Monin). 






SCALES. — The skin peels in places. Scales, which is 
about the same, thing as dry seborrhoea or pityriasis is 
frequent among blondes and children. This condition is 
due to irritating soaps or to too frequent use of soap ; 
microbes may also be the cause. It always indicates 
that the glands do not perform their functions prop- 
erly. 

Wash the skin with water to which salt is added in the 
proportion of 8 parts to 1,000 of water; or water with 
alkalines, boracic acid, alum ; use soaps containing sali- 
cylic acid, resorcin, oil of cade, tar; use astringent 
lotions, lotions with lemon; also ointments containing 
sulphur, salicylic acid, iodine, tar, etc. Often all use of 
water on the face should be stopped, and vaseline or 
cream employed instead for cleansing it. 

Antiseptic lotion. 

Rose water 1000 grammes 

Neutral glycerine 50 — 

Borate of soda 10 — 



SCALES 217 

Astringent lotion. 

Hot water 200 centimeter cubes 

Tincture of benzoin 10 drops 

Ointment. 

Glycerine . . 60 grammes 

Borax 10 — 

Oil of birch 6 drops 

Essence of santal 6 — 

Ointments for removal of scales. 

Vaseline 20 grammes 

Resorcin 0.30 — 

Tincture of benzoin 12 drops 

Oil of sweet almonds 20 grammes 

Tincture of iodine 5 to 10 drops 

White precipitate . 2 grammes 

Fresh lard 40 — 

Tannic acid 2 grammes 

Calomel 1 — 

Vaseline 1 — 

Lanolin 10 — 

Vaseline 20 grammes 

Sulphur 4 — 

Salicylic acid 2 — 

Here follow a few prescriptions for rebellious cases. 
After the above lotions have been used, apply in the 
evening : 

Paste for removing scales. 

Carbonate of soda 5 grammes 

Green soap 10 — 

This is very irritant. 



218 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Sulphur salves. 

Vaseline 10 grammes 

Lanolin 10 — 

Oxide of zinc 5 — 

Precipitate of sulphur 2 — 

Salicylic acid 2 grammes 

Camphor 0.50 — 

Sulphur precipitate 3 — 

Vaseline 30 — 

Sulphur precipitate 4 grammes 

Oil of cade 5 — 

Vaseline 10 — 

Lanolin 10 — 



SEBORRHOEA, OILY OR GREASY.— Greasy ap- 
pearance, shining face. This seborrhoea is found alone 
or accompanied by acne and blackheads, while dry sebor 
hoea is often found with acne, rosacea and granula 
acne. 

The seat of greasy seborrhoea is always on the back, 
the sides of the nostrils, the cheek bones and the fore- 
head, sometimes too on the chin. If it is very pro- 
nounced, it causes little crusts to form and sometimes 
even scales : this is called crusty seborrhoea. 

The treatment for this affection is the same as for 
greasy skin. The general condition must be treated : 
alcoholic lotions, astringents and above all alkalines must 
be used, and be followed by powdering. 

Dry seborrhoea must not be confounded with dryness 
of the skin. Dry seborrhoea which is also known as 
pityriasis is a scaly disease oftenest found among blond 
people and children. It is due to irritation by soaps or 



; 



SOAPS 219 

is of microbic origin. It indicates a bad condition of the 
glands. See Scales. 

SOAPS. — The most neutral of all soaps is marbleized 
Castile soap ; white soap is the best for toilet use. With 
the soaps are also used oil of sweet almonds (for scal- 
ing), lime juice (for erythema), astringent extracts per- 
fumed. 

Soap for the body. 

White suet soan 1 kilo 

White sand 2 — 

Thyme 20 grammes 

Rosemary 20 — 

Lavender 20 — 

Glycerine soap. 

Pure glycerine 

Soap of white suet, Q. S. to saturate. 
Perfume according to taste. 

It would be of great interest to know exactly what 
enters into the composition of the soaps we use. Their 
action upon the skin is more or less irritant according 
to the alkaline base of which they are composed (pot- 
ash, soda, chalk), or according to their other contents: 
oily excipients, (vegetable, animal or mineral oils) ; aux- 
iliaries (resins, animal, vegetable or mineral products) ; 
or perfumes. If a soap causes redness or peeling of the 
skin, there is a good reason for suspecting and reject- 
ing it. 

Household toilet soap. 

Light yellow honey 300 grammes 

White castile soap 300 — 

Benzoin 70 — 

Storax 30 — 

(Martay). 



220 COSMETIC GUIDE 

White castile soap 500 grammes 

Spermaceti 80 — 

Light yellow honey 80 — 

Lemon juice 3 lemons 

Essence of rosemary 30 drops 

Essence of lemon 30 — 

Preparation. — Grate the soap, mix in a marble mortar, dis- 
solve in a water bath and pour it into molds. 

Camphorated soap. 

Paste of bitter almonds 60 grammes 

Saturated tincture benzoin 40 — 

Pulverised camphor 8 — 

White castile soap 500 — 

(Monin). 
Liquid soap. 

Glycerine 400 grammes 

Green soap 600 — 

Dissolve by heat ; after cooling add : 

Alcohol 50 grammes 

Essence of mint 1 — 

Essence of cinnamon 1 — 

Castile soap may take the place of the green soap. 

Pure soap 1000 grammes 

Glycerine 1000 — 

Then add the perfume and color you may prefer. For 
instance : 

Essence of lemon 10 grammes 

Essence of bergamote 10 — 

Carmine (or eosin) 10 — 

The coloring is added when the soap is taken from 
the fire. 

The perfume is added when pouring the soap in the 
molds or receptacles to cool off. 



SPRAYS 



221 



SPRAYS.— (See Cosmetics and Masks). Sprays of 
vapor are an excellent means for cleansing the face and 
allaying congestions. The sprays made with a little 
hand spray only serve to spread an agreeable and re- 
freshing fluid on the face, while vapor sprays are cos- 
inetical and curative. These sprayings are done with a 
special apparatus. The water in the little round boiler 
A, is brought to the boiling point, while the spraying 







Fi g> 50.— Pulverization.— System Bressy. 

A, boiler ; B, lamp ; C, shade to direct the spray ; D, open- 
ing where the face is placed. 

liquid is in the glass B, into which is plunged the rubber 

tube D. 

Pure boiled water is used for spraying, with the ad- 
dition of emollient waters and various mixtures. 

When there is a good cloud of vapor the face is 
placed in front of the sprayer at a distance of from 
8 to 12 inches. It is necessary to wait till there is no 



COSMETIC GUIDE 



longer a jet of water issuing before approaching. The 
throat and chest must be protected with an oilcloth 
apron, and sometimes the eyes covered with a bandage 
or spectacles. 




Fig. 51. — Steam pulverization. 

A, boiler containing water which is heated to boiling 
point by alcohol lamp B; C, small handle used to direct 
the vapor which escapes in jets at T; D, two rubber tubes 
plunging in glass B which contains the liquid to be used 
in sprays or as vapor sprays; E shows how the jet of 
vapor should be before the face is placed in front of the 
apparatus in order to avoid burns that would be the result 
of a sudden vapor stream. 



The sprayings are given once or twice a day and 
last from fifteen to twenty minutes. They have a very 
good effect after the masks have been used or after 
massage (particularly for acne). 



STINGS AND BITES 223 

STINGS AND BITES.— Their treatment varies with 
their nature, extent and seat. It is in the realm of the 
physician's work. 

Immediate bathing with spirits of camphor, or per- 
oxide of hydrogen; touching with tincture of iodine 
(except when in the vicinity of the eye). 

One of the best remedies as yet little used in this 
country is the Burow Solution so much employed in 
Germany, Austria and Russia. It is readily made by 
mixing one part of the "Liquor Aluminis Acetici" with 
nine parts of water, and may be applied on strips of 
gauze or lint. It reduces the swelling of bites almost 
immediately and subdues all itching and burning. The 
effects of mosquito bites are quickly overcome by its 
use and no traces are left. 

SUNBURN. — Sunburn is a browning of the face due 
to the action of the sun's rays or of the air. It may be 
modified or made to disappear altogether by the use of 
solutions of ammonia chlorhydrate, peroxide of hydro- 
gen or bichloride of mercury. 

Solutions. 

White precipitate 2.5 grammes 

Bismuth sublimate 2.5 

Lanolin 40 

Tincture benzoin 1.15 grammes 

Bichloride of mercury 0.30 — 

Emulsion amygdalin 300 — 

Sulphur precipitate 15 grammes 

Camphor 1 — 

Gum arabic 5 — 

Aqua calcis 100 — 

Rose water 100 — 



224 COSMETIC GUIDE 

SUPERFLUOUS HAIR HAIRINESS.— Hypertri- 
chosis is seldom found anywhere on women except on 
legs, between breasts and on the face. It is acquired or 
hereditary. 

The superfluous hair is most objectionable upon the 
face of women, but one may get rid of this baneful 
condition by obeying the following instructions : 

Those who can not have the assistance of an expert 
should rely entirely upon the use of Peroxide of Hydro- 
gen, which should be applied several times daily upon 
the hairy portions of the face or body. The hair turns 
blond and after a few days breaks off. To avoid irritat- 
ing the skin too much, cold cream should be rubbed in. 

If the hair is growing between the breasts and inter- 
feres with the wearing of decollete dress, it is best to 
apply for 3 or 4 days the following mixture : 

Tincture of iodin 3 grammes 

Oil of therebinth 6 — 

Castor oil 8 — 

Alcohol ..48 — 

Collodium 100 — 

This applied for 3 or 4 successive days, will form 
crust which on being removed will be found to have 
everyone of the objectionable hairs attached to it, leav- 
ing the skin entirely free of hair. 

Hair on the face, upper lip, under the chin and on the 
cheeks, as mentioned above, are best treated by Hydro- 
gen Peroxide, if there are not too many. Hair in large 
numbers can be removed most readily by one of the well- 
known depilatories (hair removing powders). 

I give a few which are especially recommended by 
Prof. Max Joseph, of Berlin, in his latest work 
on Kosmetik, 1912, Leipzig, Veit and Compagnie. 



SUPERFLUOUS HAIR 225 

Oxide of zinc "j 

Barii sulphurat. rec. parat ^ equal parts 

or 

Sulphate of strontium 8 grammes 

Oxide of zinc 12 — 

Starch 12 — 

These powders, mixed with hot water, are made into a 
paste which is applied upon the part affected in a layer 
the thickness of blotting paper, left on from 1 to 5 min- 
utes, or, if the skin bears it well, from 10 to 15 minutes, 
and removed with oil. Cleanse the skin afterwards with 
hot water and rub cold cream into it. 

No irritation should be noticed after applying these 
powders and the frequency of using them depends upon 
the irritability of the skin. 

In the same manner we use the following depilatories 
which should be freshly prepared for each occasion : 

Natrii sulf-hydrati 3 grammes 

Quick lime 10 — 

Starch 10 — 

Make a paste ; apply and remove after 3 or 4 minutes. 

Calc. hydr. sulfur, in aqua 20 grammes 

Essence of lemon 10 — 

Glycerine ointment 10 — 

Starch 10 — 

Put this on the skin in a layer of 1 to 2 millimeters thickness, 
and rub off after 10 to 30 minutes. 

Auripigmenti 1 gramme 

Amyli 10 — 

Calc. viv 16 — 

Water, Q. S. to make a paste. 
Remove after a few minutes. 



226 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Rusma Turcorum (Turkish Powder). 

Auripigmenti 1 to 2 grammes 

Calc. viv. pulv 8 — 

Remove from face after a few moments. 

Ladies who are living where there are experts, derma- 
tologists and physicians who use electricity in their prac- 
tice, should without hesitation apply to them for relief, 
and if possible have their superfluous hair removed by 
the Electrolytic process (Removal of superfluous hair 
by the Galvanic needle). 

This is done by applying a fine needle connected with 
a battery of 32 Elements Rheostat Galvanometer. The 
negative electrode carries the needle holder which is 
provided with a button to break the current. The 
needle slides into the hair follicle, when guided by an 
experienced hand, without causing any discomfort, and 
then the current is turned on (2-3 milliampere is suf- 
ficient according to the sensibility of the patient). After 
a few seconds a tiny vesicle appears at the mouth of the 
follicle, which is the signal for withdrawing the needle. 
The removal of the hair is painless when the bulb has 
been well hit; otherwise the hair resists and some pain 
is felt at its removal. 

This method is slow and tiresome for the patient who 
has some thousands of hairs to be removed. 

Hence Prof. Kromayer's multiple electric needle is a 
great step forward. This method, the Multiple Elec- 
trolysis, allows the electricity to be felt only at the end 
of the needle. These five insulated needles are attached 
to copper wires and are each inserted into a follicle by 
the operator, enabling him to remove five hairs at one 
time, instead of one. They are of the finest make and 



THIN FACE 227 

smallest diameter and cause no pain when properly in- 
serted into the follicles. 

To show the superiority of the epilation after Kro- 
mayer's method over the old style method with the single 
needle, I wish to state that 150 to 200 hairs can be com- 
fortably removed in a two hour session with the multiple 
Kromayer needles, which is at least 3 times as many 
as can be removed by the single needle. 

The returning hair will be found to be different from 
the hair which it replaces. The new growth is much 
thinner, frailer, and after each removal a still thinner 
one takes its place, and the latter one can be removed 
by the pincers without the least pain. 

While by the single needle process 50 per cent, of the 
removed hairs return and have to be removed over again, 
only 20 to 30 per cent, reappear after the Kromayer 
process of epilation. However, the treatment is expen- 
sive and has to be continued for some years to make 
absolutely sure of no further return of the objectionable 
hair. 

THIN FACE.— Overfeeding (eating little and often), 
rest in bed, stimulating frictions, well chosen toilet 
waters (vinegars), white emulsions. 

A thin face will quickly show wrinkles and folds ; 
sprays should therefore be used from five to ten min- 
utes every day with stimulating liquids. 

Infusion of the large comfrey 2 parts 

Neutral glycerine 1 part 

Afterwards apply : 

Castor oil 30 grammes 

White wax 5 — 

Parafine 5 — 

Perfume, ad libitum. 



228 COSMETIC GUIDE 

TOILET OF THE FACE.— Two questions arise 
when dealing with the toilet of the face : what water 
to use and which soap. 

Water. Should water be used for the face? Ought 
it to be used pure or with additions? Hot, lukewarm 
or cold? 

If it is true that water suits every skin, there are 
certainly examples (like Adeline Patti) of persons that 
never used water and had irreproachable complexions. 

Gently touching or tapping the face with water is 
preferable to great ablutions with rubbing. A piece of 
absorbent cotton is to be preferred to a towel or a sponge, 
for delicate skins. 

As a general rule, lukewarm water is best suited to 
infants, cold water in youth and hot when older 

Cold or lukewarm water is most suitable for blondes 
and red-haired people with dry skins ; hot water for 
brunettes and those with oily skins. 

If the water is impure, it should be boiled, and if it 
contains too much chalk, some drops of benzoin, am- 
monia or Eau de Cologne should be added. 

When the skin is red, dry, scaly, covered with spots 
01 any other manifestations of skin trouble, add to the 
water those ingredients which are mentioned under their 
respective headings for such cases. 

The question of soap. — Soap is to be used in every 
case where the skin is oily, exposed to dust (in summer 
in the life out of doors, in winter in the house). Soap 
is injurious, however, for dry, scaly, blotched, congested 
skins. 

Soap is not indispensable for babies ; it is only neces- 
sary for children and persons with greasy skins. For 
persons with dry, irritable skin, it should be replaced 



TOILET OF THE FACE 229 

by vaseline, lanolin, almond paste and from time to 
time by lemon juice, milk, cucumber juice, or the yolk 
of an tgg. 

How often a day should the face be washed. — The 
hygiene of the face requires it should be washed morn- 
ing and night. 

The morning washing should be done with lukewarm 
or cold water, using as little soap as possible, drying it 
and, if the skin is dry, passing lightly over it some 
cream or vaseline ; if oily, an alkaline mixture, containing 
glycerine or a little alcohol. After this, people with 
greasy skins should use powder which must not remain 
on, but be wiped off at once. 

Evening washing should be done with hot water and 
soap according to conditions. This cleansing should 
be done thoroughly in order to remove the dust and 
grime of the day. If the skin is dry, rub with a piece 
of absorbent cotton dipped in some greasy substance, 
and afterwards wipe with lukewarm or fresh water to 
which has been added some drops of toilet vinegar. 
Nothing more should be used, unless the skin is very 
dry ; in this case a little vaseline or lanolin may be 
applied. 

If the skin is greasy wash with hot water and soap ; 
rub afterwards with a cotton tampon dipped into some 
alcoholic solution, or an alkaline, or some distilled aro- 
matic water (rose water, orange flower water), or a 
mixture like the following: 

Orange flower water 950 grammes 

Borate of soda 10 — 

Pure glycerine 50 — 

Then dry, and use no powder unless skin is oily. 



230 



COSMETIC GUIDE 






A few more remarks and advices. — As alcohol, ether, 
glycerine and acetic acid are very much used in toile 
waters, lotions and vinegars, it is well to know thei 
action and uses. 

Alcohol is generally diluted when used in cosmetics. 
It is antiseptic, disinfecting and stimulating. It enters 
into most toilet waters, particularly Cologne water. 
When undiluted it is irritating to the skin. 

Ether is employed in the form of sulphuric ether, sel- 
dom alone. It mixes with water and alcohol, it dis- 
solves camphor, sulphur, iodine, iodoform, bichloride of 
mercury, fats and oils. It renders the skin insensible 
and reddens it at the same time, helping to dissolve the 
epidermal debris, scales and fat. The mixture of equal 
parts of ether and alcohol constitute the Liqueur d'Hoff 
man employed as a vehicle for lotions and cosmetics. 
It is also an excitant for the skin, making it peel, dis- 
seizing the grease, but after continued use it causes ir- 
ritation. 

Glycerine dissolves in water and alcohol, but is in- 
soluble in ether, spirits of turpentine, chloroform and 
fats. 

Glycerine is chemically an alcohol, resembling it in its 
irritant action upon the skin; which is the reason why 
many persons cannot, use pure glycerine, while mixed 
with rosewater, distilled waters, starch (glyceroles of 
starch) it can be well borne and serves for incorporating 
many substances useful for the toilet of the face. 

Acetic acid which is the base of most toilet vinegars, 
is very irritating. It mixes with both alcohol and water. 
It helps to dissolve the debris of the skin but causes 
burning and congestion. Therefore, it is often replaced 
by lemon juice. 



TOILET OF THE FACE 231 

Vaselines. — Cheeseborough's white neutral vaseline is 
often employed for cleansing the skin. It has been ac- 
cused of promoting the growth of hair upon the face 
and causing brown pigmentations, particularly with 
blond people, but this is a statement which so far has 
not been verified. 

Cleaning the skin. — For dry skins (particularly 
blondes) : a piece of soft linen dipped into neutral white 
vaseline into which has been poured a few drops of 
Cologne water, is a most agreeable w r ay of cleansing 
the skin, which should be gently rubbed in one direction 
only. When the skin is rough and scaly a few drops of 
Liqueur d'Hoffman should be better than the Cologne 
water; if there is any congestion, distilled water, or 
some aromatic vinegar will best serve the purpose. After 
the cleansing, use fatty creams. 

For oily skins. — The same mode of cleansing, but with 
very little vaseline, but more Cologne water ; or alcoholic 
lotions, benzoin lotions or lotions of borate of soda. Dry- 
ing the face to be followed by dry creams and powder. 

When the skin is red, pustulous and oily: (1) wash at 
night with lukewarm water ; (2) cover face with a mix- 
ture of the white of an tgg and juice of a fresh lemon. 
(3) Next morning wash with hot water (500 grammes), 
and bicarbonate of soda (one tablespoonful). 

Variation in the cares of the face. 

The care of the face should vary according to 

1. The nature of the complexion, whether blond, 
chestnut or brunette. 

2. The quality of the skin: normal, dry, oily. 

3. The presence of eruptions, manifestations on the 
skin of redness, erythema, spots, sunburn, pustules. 






232 COSMETIC GUIDE 

4. Scaly skin, peeling easily. 

5. The influence of oily substances on the skin, what 
effect they produce; are they well borne? 

6. In what form are they used : salves, creams, 
glyceroles. 

7. Action of water : cold, hot, lukewarm. 

8. Action of soap. 

9. Action of toilet waters : vinegars, toilet milks 
glycerines. 

10. Action of powders. 

11. Condition of functions: gastro-intestinal, he- 
patic, genito-urinary ; insist upon regularity of menses 
and bowels. 

12. Diet : animal, vegetable or mixed. 

13. Influence of emotions and feelings upon the face. 

14. Influence of the nervous system : impressionable, 
nervous. 

15. Influence of perfumes : which ones are preferred. 

16. Take into consideration age, sex, mode of life. 

TOILET WATERS.— In the first part of this book, 
Hygiene of the face, the composition of the principal 
toilet waters has been explained. Almost all of them 
contain alcohol, distilled waters and perfumes. They 
are used pure as lotions and for frictions, or in small 
quantity added to the water for washing. 

Cologne waters are the best type of toilet waters. The 
following are some prescriptions for a few of them : 

For softening the skin. 

Rose water 60 grammes 

Cherry laurel water 10 — 

Distilled water 50 — 

Glycerine (neutral) 30 — 

Biborate of soda 5 — 

Vanilhne 0.05 — 



TOILET WATER 233 

For blondes with dry skin. 

Cherry laurel water 20 grammes 

Milk of almonds 300 — 

For face with acne pustules. 

Salicylic acid 1 gramme 

Alcohol. 90% 5 — 

Borate of soda 4 — 

Distilled water 200 — 

For a sensitive scaly skin. 

Milk of almonds 150 grammes 

Rose water 150 — 

To cleanse the face. 

Tincture of soap 20 grammes 

Spirits of lavender 10 — 

Alcohol. 90% 40 — 

Rose water. O. S. for 300 — 

Perfume as desired. 

Antiseptic toilet water. 

Rose water LOO grammes 

Boracic acid 1 — 

Essence of roses 5 drops 

For pimples and blackheads 

Biborate of soda 10 grammes 

Neutral glycerine SO — 

Orange flower water 920 — 

For dry, peeling skin, with congestion and pustules. 

Bisulphate of potassium 2 grammes 

Carbonate of potassium 1 — 

Tincture of benzoin 1 — 

Spirits of lavender 20 drops 

Cherry laurel water 20 grammes 

Distilled water Q. S. for 300 — 



234 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Antiseptic friction. 

Borate of soda 5 grammes 

Phenic acid, pure 0.20 — 

Cherry laurel water .'. 5 — 

Glycerine 15 — 

For congested face, acne rosacea, red blotches. 

Tincture of benzoin 5 grammes 

Tincture of ratanhia . * 5 — 

Tincture of witch hazel 5 — 

Ergotin 15 — 

Spirits of lavender 15 — 

Spirits of rosemary 15 — 

Spirits of camphor, Q. S. for 125 — 

For oily skin with congestion, acne and 

papular eruption (miliary). 

Tincture of benzoin 2 grammes 

Borate of soda 8 — 

Tincture of quillaya 20 drops 

Rose water 300 grammes 

Astringent lotion for wrinkles. 

Mix: 

A. — Spirits of lavender 10 grammes 

Spirits of rosemary 10 — 

Tincture nux vomica 2 — 

Alcoholic extract of lemon zest 20 — 

Dissolve separately : 

B. — Extract of ratanhia 1 gramme 

Borate of soda 10 — 

Rose water 150 — 

Filter through paper, then add B. to A, so as to obtain]] 
200 grammes of liquid. 



TOILET WATER 235 

When the skin is covered with red blotches, brown 
spots, or by marks of pregnancy, it is advisable to use 
the following: 

To clear the complexion. 

Milk of almonds 50 grammes 

Bichloride of mercury 0.50 

To get rid of freckles. 

Sulphur of zinc 2 grammes 

Acetate of lead 2 

Bichloride of mercury 1 — 

Distilled water 250 — 

Alcohol at 90% 500 — 

Use this either full strength, or diluted one half with warm 

distilled water, in applications of from one to three hours 

according to the tolerance of the skin. 

For sunburn. 

Bichloride of mercury 0.70 grammes 

White of one egg 

Juice of one lemon 

White sugar 10 — 

Distilled water 100 — 

Use in same manner as preceding recipe. 

It must be borne in mind that these three mixtures 
are poisonous and irritating, and that it is necessary to 
correct their action by the application of soothing creams 
at the same time. 

Toilet water for dry skins. 

Neutral glycerine 80 grammes 

Rose water 20 — 

Cherry laurel water 210 — 



236 COSMETIC GUIDE 

THICKENING OF SKIN. — For this trouble use 
massage ; friction with fatty substances ; creams con- 
taining glycerine and lanolin. 

Lotion for thickened skin. 

Rose water 250 cubic centimeters 

Glycerine 30 — — 

Chlorate of potash 1 — — 

VINEGARS. — Vinegars in cosmetics are preparations 
with a foundation of wine vinegar or acetic acid vinegar. 

They are irritants, caustics and antiseptic. They 
quicken the circulation and make the desquamation dis- 
appear. Hence, they are indicated when the skin peels 
(dry seborrhoea). 

Mixed with spirits and essences, their antiseptic and 
exciting action is increased (in congestion, pustular acne 
and acne rosacea) ; when combined with alcohol they dis- 
solve fats (action upon greasy skin and seborrhoea 
oleosa). 

Vinegars must be diluted with water before using on 
account of their caustic properties. They do not suit 
fine, sensitive skins. In general but a few drops are 
used, a teaspoonful in about one and half to two pints of 
water for the toilet. 

Aromatic vinegar. 

Tincture of benzoin 10 grammes 

Acetic acid crystallized 50 — 

Cologne water 940 — 

(Gavalhies) 

Lavender vinegar. 

Rose water 50 grammes 

Alcoholic extract of lavender 100 — 

Vinegar 150 — 



WARTS 237 

Antiseptic vinegar. 

Salicylic acid 10 grammes 

Crystallized acetic acid 100 — 

Spirits of eucalyptus 5 — 

Cologne water 885 — 

(Pennes) 

According to experience, aromatic vinegars should 
not be used with soap. This would cause a formation 
of acid fat, very irritating for the skin, giving rise to 
burning and peeling. 

After washing with soap it is better to rinse well with 
lukewarm or hot water, and then to put a few drops of 
vinegar into scarcely warm water, or into cool or cold 
water for bathing the face. 

WARTS. — Warts on the face are generally either flat, 
very numerous, little noticeable, generally found among 
children, or brown spots, more or less prominent, usually 
found among old people. Their treatment is medical. 
After the fortieth year some warts may become epitheli- 
omata or skin cancers, and they should never be irritated 
by careless treatment. (Fig. 52.) 

If irritated they ulcerate and spread. It is advisable 
to consult a surgeon as to their treatment. 

Apply at night the following paste : 

Flowers of sulphur 20 grammes 

Glycerine 50 — 

Acetic acid 10 — 

Besides warts, certain skins are subject to pro- 
tuberances called "beauty spots" or moles, which can- 
not be treated cosmetically. 

They require surgical and medical measures combined, 
and much time and care. See Moles* 



238 



COSMETIC GUIDE 




Fig. 52. — Warts and senile spots 



WRINKLES. — Wrinkles that are due to age and com- 
ing after the fortieth year, are usually incurable ; if they 
are concealed by make up ? (he means to do this must be 
used indefinitely ; this will injure the skin and increase 
the wrinkles. 



Accidental wrinkles are due: 

1. To the quality of the skin, its thinness and dry- 



ness. 



2. To leanness, to variations of temperature; 



WRINKLES 239 

3. To emotions, sorrows and passions. Wrinkles are 
most frequently found among the nervous. 

Wrinkles may be delayed by preventive means ; they 
may be attenuated, but seldom can be cured by corrective 
treatment. 

Preventive cares. — The leanness and dryness of the 
skin must be overcome. Lukewarm water should be 
used at night, cold water in the morning. 

After the evening toilet, spraying with a stimulating 
water should follow, also compresses of the same kind, 
or creams for massaging with friction, but only if the 
other means are not effective. 

Mornings, use alcohol or vinegar lotions containing 
alum, borax or tannin ; afterwards, if the skin is dry, a 
little cream may be used. 

Lola Montez used to advise cold ablutions, followed 
by prolonged friction with a dry towel. 

As a compress. 

Rose water , . 200 grammes 

Thick milk of almonds 50 — 

Sulphate of aluminium 4 — 

Sulphate of aluminium 4 grammes 

Cherry laurel water ." 10 — 

Distilled rose water 140 — 

Neutral glycerine 50 — 

Extract of violet 5 drops 

or 

Water 1000 grammes 

Borax 25 — 

Spirits of wine 130 — 



240 COSMETIC GUIDE 

For spraying. 

Orange flower water 20 grammse 

Tincture of quillaya 20 — 

Salicylic vinegar 20 — 

A dessertspoonful in a glass of boiled water. 

For thin people, sprays, and afterwards ointments as 
follows : 

For spraying. 

Infusion of the large comfrey 100 grammes 

Glycerine 100 — 

Ointment. 

Castor oil 30 grammes 

White wax 5 — 

Paraffin 5 — 

Spermaceti » 5 — 

Salicylic acid 2 — • 

Essence of bitter almonds 15 drops 

Corrective treatment. — There does not exist any 
treatment for the cure of wrinkles ; they may be hidden 
but not effaced. 

Sprays, lotions, massage and electricity are among the 
best corrective means for wrinkles. Making up increases 
them ; enameling is without sense and is also dangerous. 

Treatment. • 

Prolonged ablutions with cold water in the morning; 
afterwards the following cream to be used : 

Clear transparent honey 100 grammes 

Juice of one lemon 



WRINKLES 241 

Keep this on for fifteen minutes, afterwards wash off 
with cold water. (To be kept up for fifteen days). 

Use lemon juice as an ointment. No glycerine, which 
is very drying. 

Massage night and morning, followed by applications 
for half an hour of compresses of very hot water, either 
pure or with the addition of : 2 to 10 p. 100 of borax, 
alum, tannin, or formol of commerce (to be used with 
prudence). The compresses must be wrung out care- 
fully. 

Bandages made of new material, dipped in: 

Alcohol 90% 15 grammes 

White of egg 15 — 

Apply at night before retiring. 

(Debay). 

Fresh butter mixed with rose water has been much 
lauded. 

Anti-wrinkle lotion. 

Rose water 200 grammes 

Thick milk of almonds 50 — 

Sulphate of aluminium 4 — 

(Monin). 

Lotion for greasy skin. 

Aromatic vinegar 90 grammes 

Tincture of benzoin 60 — 

Neutral glycerine . . 15 — 

Resorcin 3 — 

Salicylic acid 2 — 

Essence of verbena 1 — 

One teaspoonful in half a glass of water, as a hot spray ten 
minutes every morning. 



242 COSMETIC GUIDE 

Ointments and creams. 
To be applied without previous massage. 

For flaccidity of skin. Tonic ointment. 

Precipitate of sulphur : 3 grammes 

Pulverized quinquina 2 — 

Tannin 1 — 

Glycerine 5 

Lanolin 10 — 

Oil of vaseline, Q. S. 

or 

White wax 4 grammes 

Spermaceti 4 — 

White vaseline 15 — 

Tincture balsam of Peru 4 — 

Use at night. 

or 

Sulphate of aluminum 1 gramme 

Sulphate of zinc 1 — 

Cerate . . , 15 — 



For greasy skin. 

Borate of soda 1 gramme 

Glycerine 5 — 

Sulphate of aluminum 2 — 

Lanolin 20 — 



For crows-feet. 

Oleic acid 15 grammes 

Vaseline 15 — 

Borate of soda 0.50 — 

Oxide of zinc 1 — 

Tincture of benzoin , 15 drops 



or 



WRINKLES 243 



Iodide of potassium or sodium 1 gramme 

Sulphate of zinc 1 — 

Sulphate of aluminium 1 — 

Balsam of Peru 15 — 

Vaseline 15 — 

Lanolin 15 — 

Add some rose water. 



HAIR* 

Beautiful and luxurious hair being one of the most 
important possessions of either man or woman, it should 
receive the care necessary to preserve its beauty. 

In order to give it the proper treatment for its pres- 
ervation some knowledge of its nature and growth will 
be useful. 

The color of the hair depends upon the coloring matter 
contained in its middle layer, the degree of color being 
regulated by the amount of the coloring matter present. 

Gray hair, once regarded only as a sign of age, is 
now known to be due simply to the loss of this coloring 
matter, or pigment, or to the number of air bubbles 
within the hair. Worry, shock or sickness are the causes 
of this condition, as well as accidents or severe and 
long continued mental strain, or brain work. 

The shape of the hair differs as well as the color; it 
may be round, oval or flat. 

The flat or oval hair is the curly hair, the rounder 
it is the less curl will be present. 

As the rate of the growth of the hair depends upon 
general conditions it cannot be stated with certainty, but 
as a rule, if in a normal state, it will grow about one- 
third of an inch in two weeks. 

The longer the hair the quicker it will grow, so that 
on the crown and back of the head it grows quicker 
than on the other parts. 

It is a mistake to suppose that cutting the hair en- 
courages its growth, on the contrary it is more apt to 
retard it, as well as making it coarse. 

*For fuller instruction on this subject seethe author's work -"Baldness: Its Causes, 
Its Treatment, and Its Cure" (E. P. Dutton & Co.) 



244 






HAIR 245 

After the hair has attained the length of about twelve 
inches, its rate of growth decreases by one half, scarcely 
any change can be noticed unless subjected to special 
treatment. 

In middle life the hair grows fastest. After a person 
has attained the age of thirty-five it seldom grows its 
full length. 

The care of the hair is the same for 'both sexes, but 
on account of the length of women's hair the technique 
is different, for in order to apply hygienic measures or 
therapeutic agents effectually the hair of a woman must 
be parted so that the application may be made at these 
partings by means of absorbent cotton wound firmly 
around a wooden applicator, or by the fingers. 

Thus the scalp which needs the treatment is reached. 
Many people ignore the fact that an application made 
only to the hair will have no effect whatever ; only when 
the scalp is reached can there be any result. 

Whatever means are employed for applying liquids, 
pomades, mixtures, tonics, tinctures, they must be ab- 
solutely clean. This is why absorbent cotton on a stick is 
the best. 

Neither scalp nor hair should be moistened with cold 
water as it changes the color by chilling the head. 

In a normal condition the hair is smooth and glossy 
and when taken between the fingers is found to be 
neither greasy nor dry. When one hair is rubbed 
against another it produces a slight crackling sound. 
The ends of the hair are normally blunt. The scalp is 
smooth and white, neither greasy nor humid and does 
not soil or moisten the fingers or cotton. To the tench 
the scalp gives to the fingers of the examining physician 
the sensation of tension and resistance. It is difficult to 



246 HAIR 

take hold of it, and is not easily separated from the 
underlying cranial bones. 

Hygiene of the scalp means the maintaining this con- 
dition by correct means, those which are appropriate for 
a too dry or too oily condition of the scalp. 

The scalp and the hair need to be washed whenever 
they are found to be dirty. This may be necessary after 
an extended railroad journey, or a trip in an open auto- 
mobile. Otherwise, albout once a month will be often 
enough, unless there are special reasons for washing 
them oftener. 

The following is the proper method of washing a 
lady's head: 

The best soap for this purpose is the tincture of 
alkaline soap, or if this is not procurable, tincture of 
green soap may be used, hot water in great abundance 
and from four to six or even ten old fluffy bath towels 
(small size) should be at hand. A little cologne spirits 
or absolute alcohol and a small bottle of pure olive oil 
may also be provided. 

The towels must be heated and kept in a heated vessel 
until used. 

One ta»blespoonful of the liquid soap is poured into 
the palm of the hand and rubbed into the hair, this is 
followed by two tablespoonfuls of hot water to form a 
lather. If the amount of the lather is not sufficient to 
cover the entire head, another spoonful of soap must 
be used followed by two more of hot water. This must 
now be rubbed in with both hands, soap and water to- 
gether, until the head is completely covered with the 
lather. 

The thickness of the hair regulates the amount of 
liquid soap and hot water necessary. 



HAIR 247 

When the scalp is covered with the lather it is best 
to cover it with a towel and leave it alone for from 
five to ten minutes, during which time the lather dis- 
solves the deposit upon the scalp and mixes with the 
scales and the secretions from the glands and the ac- 
cumulated dirt. When a slight burning or itching of the 
scalp makes itself felt, the time has come for the hot 
water to be used. 

This is to be done as follows : 

One quart of water is poured slowly over the lather 
covered hair and thoroughly mixed with it by rubbing 
it in with both hands. Another quart of water should 
follow to rinse the last remnants of soap lather out of 
the hair. A third quart insures almost perfect cleansing; 
more must be used if necessary. 

Immediately after the last rinsing the hot towels 
should be brought into play. One towel after the other 
must be used quickly and thrown away as soon as it has 
absorbed sufficient moisture to feel damp. 

The quicker the hot towels are used the sooner the 
hair gets perfectly dry. If a trace of moisture remains, 
a tablespoonful of cologne spirits (not cologne water) 
should be rubbed into the moist portion of hair. Its 
instantaneous evaporation dries the hair perfectly. Hot 
air blasts from an electric dryer are not good for hair or 
scalp, but an open grate fire or the sun will greatly 
facilitate the operation of drying the hair. The hair 
should never be dressed till it is thoroughly dry. If 
the soap is properly and completely washed out of the 
hair, ladies will experience no difficulty in arranging 
the hair after washing it. 

Should the hair feel too dry after such a thorough 
cleansing, making it difficult to dress it, a teaspoonful 



248 HAIR 

of pure olive oil poured into a saucer and applied by 
dipping the brush into it and then brushing the hair 
with it will obviate this difficulty. 

Ladies having white hair may put some blue into the 
rinsing water, as laundresses rinse white clothes to pre- 
vent their turning yellow. A good quality of blue must 
be used. If this does not succeed in preventing the hair 
turning yellow, a one per cent, alcoholic solution of 
bichloride of mercury must be used. 

No preparation containing resorcin should ever be 
used by blondes, brunettes or white haired persons as 
it turns such hair reddish. 

A perfect brushing will do as well as a washing for 
dry hair, while the oily hair needs less brushing and 
more soap and water. 

Crimping and curling the hair should not be too much 
indulged in. The simplest modes of wearing the hair 
are best for it. Growing girls should wear a pendant 
braid and women whose hair is grown and who gather 
it into a coil, should use large hairpins, preferably of 
rubber or bone, with absolutely smooth surfaces. Hair 
that does not curl naturally, should not be singed 
or squeezed between hot irons, or twisted up tightly in 
curl papers. 

There are some diseases of the scalp which produce 
baldness (a condition which obtains more often among 
men than among women) the most important of which 
is Seborrhoea. 

Seborrhoea or dandruff, of which there are two kinds, 
the dry and the oily, is apt to come on gradually at the 
age of puberty. 

If one notices closely the skin of the faces of young 
people suffering from this trouble, it will be seen that 



HAIR 249 

they have an oily appearance. This is because of the 
abnormal amount of secretion oozing from the glands. 
Should this condition continue for some years without 
proper treatment it will reach the condition of dry 
seborrhoea. Instead of being oily, the hair will now be 
dry and without lustre, and some scales will be found, 
though not as profuse as before, the hair will be found 
to be thinner and continues to grow thinner. 

Very often this trouble is not discovered until it is 
too late to be much benefited by any treatment. 

However, we have a remedy now in the Ultra Violet 
rays of the Quartz lamp. This treatment in connection 
with some local remedies produces the best results. 
Alcoholic solutions also are employed successfully. 

The following solution applied properly, at the right 
time, improves the condition of both scalp and hair. 

Acidi Salicylic! . . , 1.0 gramme 

Spiritus Vini 200.0 — 

(Not to be used near an open flame.) 

When the hair is too oily it should be washed once 
or twice every week with luke warm water and castile 
soap, or still better with Hebra's Tincture of Alkaline 
soap, and once a month if should be given a thorough 
shampooing. 

. When the hair is too dry, it needs washing only every 
two weeks, shampooing every month, and according to 
the amount of dryness, it is advised to grease it regularly 
with the following pomade : 

Sulf. precipitate 2.0 grammes 

Vaseline alb 30.0 — 

Lanolin ad 50. — 

Add some perfume. 



250 HAIR 

The two following remedies should be used alternately, 
the first one which has been mentioned before : 

1. Acidi Salicylici 1.0 gramme 

Spiritus 200.0 — 

and 

2. Florum sulphuris 1.5 grammes 

Vasilini flavi 20.0 — 

M. fiat unguentum 

or still better, the salve should be rubbed in two days 
successively.; the third day the solution should be ap- 
plied. This must be continued for six weeks. 
Afterwards the following tonic may be used: 



Acidi salicylici 1.0 gramme 

Resorcini 1.5 — ■ 

Spiritus Vini 100.0 — 

Do not use near an open flame. 






Universal baldness is another disease resembling 
seborrhoea, but more severe. In this condition the 
hair loss is much greater, and all parts of the body are 
affected. 

This is explained as the result of illness, as typhoid 
fever, cerebro-spinal meningitis, tuberculosis, diabetes, 
etc., or after severe operations as for appendicitis. The 
result of treatment in these cases is better than might 
be expected. The hair usually grows again, particularly 
when Phototherapy is used. 

A plain but nourishing diet will be prescribed by the 
physician, as well as iron taken internally; locally a 
hair-tonic, as: 



HAIR 251 

Resorcini 5.0 grammes 

01. Macidis 1.0 — 

01. Ricini 2.0 — 

Spir 200.0 — 

Ag. Col 20.0 — 

To be rubbed in daily with a sponge. 

In another disease of the scalp called Premature Bald- 
ness, there are no premonitary signs, the hair becomes 
thinner and thinner till the head is entirely denuded. 

Females as well as males may suffer from this disease, 
though in the case of a woman it is seldom that she 
becomes completely bald, but the growth of the hair will 
be weakened, it will grow thin or turn gray early and 
fall out freely. 

The best advice that can be given to persons suffering 
from this or any other scalp disease is to seek help 
before the condition becomes chronic, as later, when 
chronic, it can be arrested only with difficulty, and often 
a. return to normal conditions is not possible. 

However, now by the use of the Ultra Violet rays of 
the Quartz lamp, if the treatment is continued long 
enough, the condition is by no means as hopeless as 
formerly and regeneration, in most cases, is to be ex- 
pected. 

Abnormal dryness of the hair causes it to split at 
the ends. Washing it too often, using combs with 
broken teeth, too frequent use of hot curling irons, etc., 
also cause this condition. Also drying the hair quickly 
after washing, by means of a hot air apparatus. In 
such cases no soap must be employed when washing the 
hair, and pure olive oil applied by means of the brush. 



Good brushes and combs only should be used. For 



252 HAIR 

babies it is better to use a soft brush, but for older per- 
sons a hard brush is the best, although sometimes even 
for an adult a soft brush is to be preferred. 

The shape of the brush is also important, it is ad- 
visable to choose one which is higher in the center than 
at the edge, and the bristles placed in bunches not too 
near together. This is because the bristles ought to 
penetrate to the scalp, as the scalp is kept clean by this 
means. The comb should have large teeth far apart. A 
fine comb should never be used, except for the removal 
of vermin. The hair should ! be brushed until there is 
a feeling of warmth on the head, but naturally no 
soreness. For finishing the dressing of the hair a softer 
brush may be used. 

Many persons think that cutting the hair stimulates 
its growth, but this theory has not been proved, as men 
whose hair is cut regularly suffer more from hair loss, 
as a rule, than do women. But this is accounted for, 
some authorities think, because of the difference in 
their mode of life. 

For children, however, it is better to allow the hair 
to grow long till the time when they begin to attend 
school, when it should preferably be cut short, because 
it is easier to keep it clean, as being exposed to more 
dust and perhaps vermin at that time it is necessary to 
wash it oftener. 

Women should avoid wearing great quantities of 
false hair, as the more false hair is worn just so many 
more hairpins are needed to hold it in place, and both 
increase the weight on the head and the hairpins are 
apt to tear the hair. 

Indiscriminate massaging of the hair should not be 
indulged in as it so often is. There are some varieties 



HAIR 253 

of massage which persons can carry out themselves, but 
all massage is a delicate operation, and when not properly 
applied may do more harm than good. The variety most 
suitable for application to the scalp is the "movement 
massage," which is of use in atrophy of the scalp, 
recognized by immobility of the scalp upon the under- 
lying cranial bones ; this is a simple moving backward 
and forward of the scalp over the cranium by the fingers 
placed firmly upon it. 

Cleanliness in massage is all important; the hands as 
well as the scalp itself should first be thoroughly cleansed 
by means of hot water, soap, etc. 

The blood supply is a very important factor in the 
growth of the hair. For this reason persons who have 
undergone operations, or from any cause whatever are 
below par, cannot expect their hair to grow, nor even 
to keep that which they may have had when they were 
in a normal condition of health. 

It is a mistaken idea to suppose that the head should 
be shaved after a severe illness in order to prevent the 
loss of the hair. Besides being esthetically very un- 
pleasant, especially for a woman, it renders the head 
more sensible to the influence of heat and moisture. 

It must not be overlooked that the most important 
factor in the preservation of the hair, is the circulation ; 
and as this is supplied by two very small arteries only, 
it is necessary to encourage every means to increase 
the blood supply. For this reason it is to be recom- 
mended that hats should be light in weight and soft in 
texture to avoid compression of these two little arteries. 
This is also the reason that massage, done properly and 
at the right time, by stimulating the circulation, may 
be of use in promoting the growth of the hair. 



254 HAIR 

In a large number of cases baldness and loss of hair 
arise from local causes, which by proper treatment can 
be retarded or modified. 

Hygiene of the head based upon the application of 
acids, alcohol, alkalines or antiseptics, is fatal to the 
life of the hair, and should be abandoned entirely unless 
used in exceptional circumstances and when under certain 
conditions, by advice of experts. 

The rational treatment really useful for the life of 
the hair has for its object 

1. The stimulation of the circulation of the head by 
avoiding all constriction. 

2. The maintaining the suppleness and elasticity of 
the scalp. 

Both of these can be assisted by the use of the Light 
rays, this treatment being effectual, which massage is 
not always by any means, more especially when given 
by persons who do not really understand it, as it so 
often is, or done by the subjects themselves in an 
amateurish way. 

One means of preserving a good supply of hair by 
stimulating the circulation of the head is hair pulling. 

To carry this out effectively the patient should take 
a handful, or it may be, all her hair firmly in her right 
hand and holding it over the left arm near the elbow, 
which must be bent at right angles with the (body, give 
it a vigorous jerk, strong enough for her to feel the 
scalp being lifted from the bony cranial surface. 

For men a practical method is to move the scalp 
mechanically by frowning in rapid succession. Also by 
placing the palm of the hand on top of the scalp and 
moving the same backward and forward and from side 
to side without changing the position of the hand. 



HAIR 255 

Men's hair should never be "shingled," which means 
cutting the hair by a to-and-fro motion of the shears, 
as this tears and roughens the hair. The hair of chil- 
dren, whether they be boys or girls, should be kept 
short until the seventh or eighth year of age, as the 
growing hair is a drain upon the nutrition of the body, 
and at this time of life all the nutritive forces should be 
expended in the growth of muscle and bone. The hair 
of a girl after her eighth year should be allowed to grow, 
as the less the hair is cut the finer it is. The long hair 
cf women is often found to be split at the point. This 
should be looked for and if found, the hair should be 
cut above the cleft. All ragged ends should be lopped 
off, and all weak hairs should be cut off near the head. 

Singeing the hair is a foolish proceeding. The 
theory that the hairs are tubes and that by singeing 
their ends the escape of the nutritious fluids is prevented, 
is all wrong, as the hair contains no fluid and gets its 
nutrition entirely from the papilla and hair follicle. 

As the hair and the general condition of the body 
sympathize, the latter should be maintained in good 
condition by a wise conformity to the laws of health. 

By a proper combination of the hygiene of the body 
with that of the hair, it is possible for even one who 
is predisposed to premature baldness to ward off the 
evil day for years. 

Is it not to be concluded from the foregoing that the 
baldness among men, so much more than among women, 
is caused more by their mode of life than by any other 
agency. 

Another disease of the scalp is known to the profes- 
sion by the name of Alopecia Areata. 



256 HAIR 

In this condition there are bald spots, either isolated, 
or confluent, extensive or circumscribed, but quite dis- 
tinct in form and appearance. 

These bald spots come insidiously, without any ac- 
companying symptoms. The hair falls out rapidly, 
often in tufts and in a few days' time. The baldness may 
spread irregularly or in defined circles. The hair which 
falls will be found to have the root dried up and 
shriveled ; these hairs have a peculiar appearance, the 
ends being frayed like a brush. 

The bald spots are pink in color. Later the skin 
shrinks, turns yellowish white, smooth, pliable to the 
touch. 

With a man the beard may become affected, with both 
men and women the eyebrows and eyelashes will fall out. 
With some persons, especially with children there is a 
variety of this disease called Area Celsi which is recog- 
nized by an extensive bald area between the temples, 
leaving a standing fringe of hair. This is very obstinate 
to treatment. 

Light cases of Alopecia Areata, may under treatment, 
recover in from two to six months ; relapses are fre- 
quent. Some of the causes given for this condition are 
disorders of the trophic nerves, the nerves which regu- 
late the blood supply ; also defective teeth, headache, 
cutting the wisdom teeth, ear trouble, etc. 

For all abnormal loss of hair, there is some cause. 
As soon as this loss is noticed it should immediately 
receive attention and the proper treatment, for it should 
be resorted to without delay. 

The treatment by the Violet Rays of the Quartz lamp 
has so far proved the most beneficial known, and when 
applied in time the results are most satisfactory, but one 



HAIR 257 

must not expect to see a sudden restoration of hair ; it 
requires, like many other things, patience and persist- 
ence ; but usually the sooner applied the quicker the re- 
generation will be. 

Dr. Nagelschmidt of Berlin reports the cure of 88% of 
cases of Alopecia Areata by the use of the Quartz lamp. 



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